86 Bronco II... G-Unit

[85_Ranger4x4]

Great stuff foam.

Closed cell so it doesn't absorb moisture.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Yes sir.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Great stuff foam.

Closed cell so it doesn't absorb moisture.

Do you need some more new Legos little buddy?

 

[Curious Hound]

Great stuff foam.

Closed cell so it doesn't absorb moisture.

Wouldn't that interfere with windows movement? Of course, that would give the door bouyancy. Handy for deep water crossings.

Seems like heavy sheet plastic from Lowe's/Home Depot/ Menards would do it. Fasten with thin double sided tape.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I was hoping for pre cut pieces...

Heavy sheet plastic would work though.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Do you need some more new Legos little buddy?

ALWAYS!!!

 

[Snoranger]

ALWAYS!!!

You should get the Amber Heard LEGO set...

 

[RobbieD]

Replacing or restoring the door liners are worth the trouble, IMO.

I use heavy plastic and stick the perimeter with spray glue. That works well for me, but butyl rope tape would be another option.

Ford used treated paper liners in the early models, changing to sheet plastic themselves after a few years.

I only use duct tape to reinforce around openings, or anything that sticks out. Tape will get wrinkly and janky after a while; cheaper brands do it worse.

That's a '94 Ex door. Your older B2 should have a flapper vent that mounts in that lower rear rectangular opening.

I'm curious to hear how well the Coverlay door panels work for you.

Glad to see you back to beating on the beast.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Nice job @RobbieD

Seems I remember there being some butyl type adhesive used on these... I think my doors still have some remnants of that on them.

I see LMC has some pre cut mylar shields... $20 for the set. I thought I had found some cheaper somewhere but can't remember where.

 

[RobbieD]

Thank you, sir.

Yes, butyl tape was used on a lot of liners. Back when I was in 12 volt accessories, I was into a lot of car doors.

One pet peeve of mine, is hacked, torn or removed door liners. When work is done in a door, it's not that damn hard to properly remove and reinstall the liner.

$20 for a set of decent shields actually doesn't sound that bad.

 

[Uncle Gump]

You wouldn't have a recommendation for the proper butyl tape would you?

 

[Shran]

I use the foil backed HVAC tape for door liners. Landscaping plastic works well for large areas.

 

[RobbieD]

You wouldn't have a recommendation for the proper butyl tape would you?

The regular gray stuff, like used in a lot of roofing / plumbing / household applications, will work but it's not real tacky, and tends to dry out after time. It's good to work with in case of removal and reinstallation.

The black, stickier stuff works much better to bond the liner to the metal, but can be difficult to remove later. In removal and reinstallation, it can get "stringy" but it resticks well. This was commonly used to install sunroofs back in the day, and one trade name was "Tacky Tape".

Imports used to use a white string of "goop" that was horrible. It used to "string" terribly when the liner was pulled off, and always made a hell of a mess.

The gray butyl tape really works OK, and is likely the easiest to find. If you have a auto body supply close by, a good counter man can probably recommend something that they stock that would work good to seal door liners.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I used butyl tape to reseal the back in my old F150. Parts store had it on hand.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I just ordered a set of mylar water shields from LMC. I guess I'll see when they get here if they're worth it.

Also got a roll of 1/4 inch butyl coming. I thought I might try the local parts store... they were nearly twice the money then having it just dropped at my door tomorrow.