86 2 wd build nagging problems

[Ga Leroy]

I am well into placing a 95 mustang 302 engine (EFI) and c-4 trans into an 86 2wd ranger. I have run into a few problems that leave me scratching my head for ideas. First, the rubber joint on the steering shaft is rubbing the header. Is there as better steering shaft than the original? Or, is there a different universal joint that isn't as big in diameter?

 

[Sighman]

I didn't have this issue, its close (1/2 inch) but not rubbing. Can you "massage" the header tube thats rubbing? What headers did you end up with? I have the headman shorty's and while they are not the best they seem to work just fine fine.

The James Duff site says you might have to work on the steering so maybe someone on here can pipe up and tell what they did.

 

[baddad457]

What headers are you using ? Shelby Tri-Y's clear the steering like they were made for it. Ditto for the Hedman Shortys

 

[5.0]

What motor mounts did you use? Is the engine centered when measuring between the fenders?

 

[Teddyzee]

I could swear some of the old build ups/tech pieces on this forum spoke about swapping the steering shaft with a Windstar or something.
I had no issues at all with an Ibeam truck, Tri-Y headers, Mustang mounts.

My brain tells me the maybe older truck had a larger joint?
Dig around the forum, or browse some pictures to see if there is a simple swap. Only thing off the top of my head is that a manual box uses a different spline, so keep that in mind if you're swapping.

Here's an old shot of mine, tons of room, even with that cover on:

 

[Ga Leroy]

Steering shaft

I used advance adapter headers which fit inside the rails just fine and they look good. The mounts are Trans Dapt # 9736 from summit. Looking at where the motor sits, it is actually slightly more to the passengers side by about 1/2 inch. The problem is with the flex joint in the shaft which is about 2 1/4 in in diameter. I can get the shaft in place but the rubber joint is too close to the #1 cylinder exhaust. My fear is that it will make the rubber brittle and break into when turning. If the joint was a couple of inches higher or lower the problem would be solved.

 

[originalnitro]

Check this out. His headers were to close to the steering shaft.
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/f402/my-347-build-272519.html

Post 28 shows what was done. Part #s on page 2 post 47.

 

[Ga Leroy]

Hey thanks for the info. I got the part numbers also. A little expensive but it will work. Thanks..

 

[Ga Leroy]

gauge and speedometer conversion

The original tranny was a manual shift with a geared speedometer cable. The C-4 has the speed sensor that supplied the electronic dash and the computer in the 95 mustang. How can I attach the old cable and leave the speed sensor in place to feed the computer. Also, how can I wire up the gauges (oil, water temp, and alternator output) to mate with the original truck gauges?

 

[Teddyzee]

Earlier Rangers had (up to at least '92, my 1991 had it) a VSS that also had a cable going through it. Fox body Mustangs also had this on Cruise control cars, likely the same part number.

LMC truck has them, as would any parts store.

As far as gauges, just plug your Ranger sensors into the new engine.
I used my stock Ranger alternator harness, it is seperate from the engine harness.
You can use your stock one, or the Mustang one. Whatever will fit your alternator easiest.