85 ranger won't start

[NEVERLIFT]

hey guys, i just bought a 85 ranger last night and it started up fine all last night but when i went to start it today it turned over for a second but now it wont crank at all, i hooked up a battery charger to see if it was the battery but when its hooked up it will almost start to turnover but wont. could it be a bad starter? i don't know a whole lot about motors but am trying to learn so any advise is appreciated, thanks

 

[metalwheel]

The battery's job is to turn the starter all day long. If the starter engages and turns the engine those two components are Ok. If batt is fully charged and will HOLD a charge the starter should do its job. If it ain't turning say on 200 amp engine start function on the charger ( if so equipped)the starter sucks. If starter is functioning Pull a plug wire off and crank the engine over and see if you got spark. Really a lot easier to see this at nite but a regular old pencil will do in the daytime. No spark? Replace the coil first...simple and fairly inexpensive... .still nothing? ignition module on distributor. If getting spark, plugs may be the issue but I am more inclined to think fuel is the problem. Remember: Start/Ignition/Fuel.

 

[metalwheel]

The battery's job is to turn the starter all day long. If the starter engages and turns the engine those two components are Ok. Pull a plug wire off and crank the engine over and see if you got spark. Really a lot easier to see this at nite but a regular old pencil will do in the daytime. No spark? Replace the coil first...simple and fairly inexpensive... .still nothing? ignition module on distributor. If getting spark, plugs may be the issue but I am more inclined to think fuel is the problem. Good luck.

"My Grandmama wants to fly jets" Louis Gossett Jr. An Officer and a Gentleman

 

[tmcalavy]

First check the batt cables...are they nice and toasty green, like old food in the fridge? Sounds like a weak battery or badly corroded cable, or three.

 

[baddis]

I have been working on cars for 30 years and have only seen one of the old style coils go bad.(it was cracked and leaking) It would also help to know what engine is in the vehicle. Not all of the older trucks have a TFI module. It is better to diagnose the issue instead of throwing parts at it hoping it fixes it. Diagnose the problem and you will learn along the way. Fix it right the first time and keep more money in your pocket. I would take the battery and starter and have them checked. also clean the battery cables first and that might fix the issue. coke and a wire brush works great for this. Not pepsi or diet coke it has to be coke. not sure why it works so well but coke works the best.

 

[metalwheel]

Yup...you want to verify that each component is working and in good condition before you start replacing parts. Never "assume" anything is 100%...I reckon there's no substitute for experience. Funny thing is I just bought a new grd cable yesterday my damn self. Oh well my bad.3 heads are better than one.

 

[NEVERLIFT]

thanks for the reply's guys, i had the charger on 200 amp engine start and it still wouldn't turn over so if the weather cooperates this weekend i'll pull the starter and have it tested

 

[armadillon]

Are you saying it does the "RUH RUH RUH RUH" or the "RUH ruh ruuuuuh *click click click*"?

I can't tell from your post if it's turning over and over and just not starting, or if it's literally not turning over.

I'd check the negative cable. After that I'd trickle charge the battery instead of going full bore 200amp engine start. If you can't hear the starter, I'd whack it a few times with a mallet and try again.

If it's the battery, take that thing to be tested. If it's the starter, do the same thing.

 

[Mark_88]

Uh, yeah, after trickle charging it for even a few hours it should turn the engine over...but you need to test the actual battery and you can do that with a volt meter...it should be like 12.5 volts just sitting...

If the volts are there and the starter won't even click then like many have said...check the wires for connections...

One of the most common sources of issues where there is no power to the starter is the little connection for the main power feed on the starter itself

They can corrode and simply not connect...I'm betting on that wire alone if the battery has 12 volts or more...

 

[hoosier1104]

Check the battery with a multimeter (should read 12V give or take +/- .5V), battery is holding voltage, check the connection on the battery and starter (corrosion mainly or loose connection), everything good there, check the voltage at the starter (12V constant and ignition trigger 0V when in the off position), got the 12V constant, have a friend try to turn it over while checking the ignition wire (should read 12V), got 12V trigger, take the starter off and have it tested.

I need a drink. Where is my crangrape assistant? #gmg

 

[97RangerXLT]

Something I had happen with my ranger a few years ago. ..when it got down below twenty degrees my ranger would just go click click click click. As soon as it I warmed up it would start right up. So one morning I got under it with a hair dryer and sure enough it started right up after heating the starter.

AJ

Do you really care where this was sent from?

 

[armadillon]

That's weird. Usually it's the battery that goes when it's cold.

 

[88SXT]

A multimeter wont test if the battery can hold a load. Pull it out and your starter and go to autozone, they'll test both for free and if they end up being bad, you're already there. check your wires too. A frayed wire gets hot as current flows through it, as it gets hotter it adds more resistance, this has happened to me on a buddies car last summer, replaced the battery cables and terminals and it ran just as good as any ford car can

 

[hoosier1104]

If it is not holding a charge, then you found the problem. If you read my post correctly, you do not move on unless the battery is holding a charge.