• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

'85 Ranger Restomod


Gauge/switch panel prototype





I need to test fit it in the truck yet but that is what I have planned.

The tab on top is for the dimmer for my LED Autometer gauges. Small holes above the switches are for indicator lights.
 
Prototype is getting tweaked. Kinda big and not happy with the sharp bottom corners in the leg area. I need to actually get the switches and see how much I can slim it down... and play with the edges. I want it to fit with the truck (everything is square) but I want it to be safe so I don't cut my leg and bleed all over my new carpet.



Stupid afterthought diagonal brace hits the mount right where I had the tab for the dimmer.



New idea, mount dimmer somewhere else. On the cruise control module works perfectly. Easier to adjust than on the gauge pod and better camouflaged.



Before the gauge dimmer my truck glowed green at night, they were obnoxiously bright. Also rather than hot with the key I tied them into what used to power the light for my shift bezel so they come on with the light switch now and do not run all the time. That freed the wire that used to feed them up to run a voltmeter instead (since the trans temp gauge is going away)

Wireless probe working awesome just by me resting an elbow on the painted cab floor.





After:



Ran a new wire to the fuel pump thru the firewall instead of thru the shifter hole. Looks much cleaner and no zipties required to keep it out of harms way.



And some of my oddball finds in the JY over the weekend that I had forgotten about. I was all excited with the buckles thinking they were NOS buckles... they are seatbelt extensions. Buckles match what is in my truck but the belt is black, I don't know if they made different colors I didn't even know they made them period until I found these. And below them is the clutch line removal tool I have been meaning to pick up... it was under the buckles in an '86 Ranger.

 
Last edited:
The wireless probe intrigues me, have a link?
 
What kind of clutch pedal part do you need? I have probably 3-5 manual trans pedal assemblies in my parts stash, years ranging from late 80's to the early 90's. I pretty much keep every pedal assembly from trucks I scrap...
 
What kind of clutch pedal part do you need? I have probably 3-5 manual trans pedal assemblies in my parts stash, years ranging from late 80's to the early 90's. I pretty much keep every pedal assembly from trucks I scrap...

I don't have a #, '88 is the first year with the clutch on the clutch rod as opposed to the potmetal/alloy pedal bracket. Should be an E7 or E8 prefix since it is a one year only thing that came out for '88.

This is what I have (note clutch switch off to side):





I see no #’s on my pedal though.

What I need (yes I stopped and took pics of one a few months ago for reference... should have grabbed the stupid pedal then):





I didn't get much for pics of the actual pedal, your ‘88 should have one though.
 
Last edited:
85_ranger. My 88 ranger has a clutch pedal assembly. I’m now running an automatic. Maybe we could trade?
 
If you guys don't work out a trade, let me know, I am sure I have what you need and it's either on the shelf or in a 1988 parts truck that's on my trailer at the moment.
 
If you guys don't work out a trade, let me know, I am sure I have what you need and it's either on the shelf or in a 1988 parts truck that's on my trailer at the moment.

I will let you know, we will be up in your neighborhood at the end of the month.

Anyway it took a full week but my parts finally showed up.



For as long as it took I had better have at least gotten a cool magnet. :annoyed:

A nice Falcon... I will let it slide.

 
Oooh you know I love new parts! Looking good man. Gauge panel is super slick.
 
Oooh you know I love new parts! Looking good man. Gauge panel is super slick.

Well for the most part they were a swing and a miss.

The speedi-sleeve was for if the crankshaft was out of the engine. Having never put one on any engine before I did not know that. So there I am with the wrong part in hand, borrowed tranny jack and high hopes of putting a tranny in today so I got innovative.

The problem is the sleeve had the lip on the outside so you install and then peel the lip off. Don't work when that is inside the engine block. I probed it and I couldn't have gotten it on far enough to cover the seal area. So I put it on backwards, wasn't too hard. Then peeled the lip off. "hey this might actually work"



Put the seal on, sleeve is nowhere to be seen, the seal chased the sleeve farther in yet. :icon_surprised:

So I drill a hole in my new seal, pull it and sure enough the sleeve is a quarter inch deeper into the engine. I manage to work up a bit with a pick, get needlenose on it to assault it some more, the needlenose vicegrips to jerk it off. I was kinda scared there for a bit actually what kind of mess I got into. Didn't get any pics of the process but I have spent $25 on more fun activities.

So crap, beautiful day and I am dead in the water AGAIN. Whats left to keep this thing moving. Backup lights, my favorite passtime of late.

I removed two wires from each connector housing to clean it up a little, I think they may have relayed VSS info to the computer once upon a time to the best I can find. No computer so no worries. I moved one wire so the colors kind of match up too.



Truck side is installed:



BU light harness is finished, it is now plugged in and safely hanging down outside the frame rail awaiting the installation of the trans.



Ok, what else? Heat shield needs dealt with, so it is now tightly reriveted in place. I used large head pop rivets originally intended for holding poly skidplates on the bottom of combine heads.

.

Also pressure washed off my trans crossmember.

I ran into town and grabbed a new seal, nobody had the correct sleeve so that part of the debacle is dead in the water until Tuesday. Once I delete the NSS I am kinda running out of stuff to do...
 
Last edited:
I always thought a speedi sleeve needed thread locker or the equivalent to prevent seeping under the sleeve. Once the locker is cured it shouldn't move.
 
I always thought a speedi sleeve needed thread locker or the equivalent to prevent seeping under the sleeve. Once the locker is cured it shouldn't move.

I had green sleeve retainer on it. Don’t know if it didn’t take, hadn’t set up yet or what.

By the time I got the sleeve off the stuff had set up. I need to clean it off the crankshaft yet.
 
Last edited:
Car show...two weeks. You going to make it?
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Special Events

Events TRS Was At This Year

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Become a Supporting Member:

Or a Supporting Vendor:

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

TRS Latest Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top