85 ranger 2.3 wont start

[redneck105]

ok i have no idea what happened first it all started dismorning i went to start my truck and nothing well i drift started it and it ran fine so i drove it about 40 feet by my shed to see whats wrong i found out battery terminal was loose. so i tightened the ground terminal back up went to fire it up and it cranks but wont start now i can hear the fuel pump running but no fire. also something else the relay that is beside the ecm is making a buzzing sound if anyone can help me out i would really appreciate it

 

[tomw]

If a relay is buzzing, it is also 'buzzing' the output power it is to provide. Either the relay windings are shorting, overdrawing the source power, or the source power, the 'switch', that turns on the relay is inadequate.
With the same vintage, I had to replace the ignition switch as it was coming apart. Re-crimped it one time, but it didn't last. That would explain the relay buzz as the power could come and go. Remove the steering column cover - 3 Philips head screws from underneath, and inspect the switch [ a bit down the column, connected by a rod to the keylock cylinder] for separation.
If it is ok, check wire & power to the relay. If not, post, and I have a solution for the switch attachment bolt removal w/o drilling.
tom

 

[redneck105]

yea i have already removed the steering column cover . i know what you mean about crimping it together mine to looks a little loose where the plug is. do you know which wires go to the relay . i was really hoping this wasnt my problem as the two bolts that hold the assembly on look to take a special bit to get them out and i dont really want to buy a tool for something i would never need again would you know a place where i can get a wire diagram so maybe if this is my problem i could wire up a push button start i live in a pretty friendly area and it wouldnt worry me to not have a key

 

[tomw]

I used a file and a crescent[adjustable] wrench. Mine were tapered so pliers would not grab, and had no head for a wrench. The file was used to remove metal from the side of the bolt head. The remaining head metal was tapered and thin near the edge. I tried to be parallel when filing, and just in to get enough thickness that an adjusable wrench could be made to grab hold. A lot easier than drilling the bolt and using a left handed thread thingy.
When mine was bad, I noticed the truck would start, I'd release the key, and it would stop running as if I had turned the key to OFF. Hold just a smidge towards start and it would stay running. Just squeezinfg the connector back in place and crimping just didn't last.
Using a file and taking a few minutes is not something a thief would generally take the time to do. It has nothing to do with using a key or not, though I suppose you could use a new switch and leave it flopping around, but that would be difficult as the switch has no 'detents' to hold the switch in any particular position, as in there is no ON OFF nor ACC position 'felt' when you move the slide.
tom

 

[redneck105]

i replaced the relay and its working as it should now well it clicks on and off anyway but im only getting 5.5 volts at the hot wire where the fuel pump relay is. if i hook a jumper wire up from the battery both fuel pumps work but still no fire

 

[redneck105]

replaced ignition switch, turned truck over still wouldnt start. i ot my multimeter out to begin searching again and found now i am not getting power to fuel pumo relay. the only power im getting is 12 volts on the wire that is a hot wire with key off. i jumped the other two wires to this wire and truck starts. before replaceing ignition switch i was getting 6 volts to relay and at inertia switch . now relaced ignition switch i am getting nothing but atleast the truck will start and run now and now i just need to figure out why im not getting power to fuel pump

 

[tomw]

Remember that the fuel pump relay is controlled by the computer. It is energized only for a few seconds at first key 'on', then it is de-powered until engine start. You should hear the pump run for 3-5 seconds when you first turn the key from off to on. The power side of the relay is connected to a fusible link [from another recent post...] as is the ECM power, to the battery side of the starter relay. The fuel pump relay switches the power to the pump on and off on command from the computer.
You won't find 12v there all the time... except on the 'power' terminal. That is the wire you are jumping from to the other two terminals... making the pumps work and the truck run. You are not getting the 'enable' signal to the relay which causes the relay to close the power terminals and pass juice on to the inertia switch and then to the pump.
At least that seems to be what is happening.
I would get a test light with a needle probe and put it into the signal connector of the relay connector. Turn the key from off to on and watch the test light. It should come on for a few seconds, then go off. Memory is not that great, but it seems that the computer looked for oil pressure in the past to indicate the engine had started, and thus re-enable the pump relay ... now it seems the computer monitors the CKP signal. Yours is old enough to use the oil pressure switch. I think.
BUT, energize the pump, for a few seconds, and the squirters are ready to go. The truck should start w/o the relay after the few second 'prime'. It will not run long w/o the pump, but should fire off, as that is what it normally does. Runs for a few on the pressurized fuel lines, and then as the engine runs, the FPR is again energized.
tom

 

[redneck105]

ok i stuck old relay back in truck fires up and runs now i have run into a new problem when i press the throttle truck hesitates and stumbles like its choking for fuel both pumps are running. i dont have a fuel pressure gauge but when i press on the needle in the schrader valve fuel shoots out pretty decent if the throttle body wasnt there it would shoot well over the truck so i think i have good fuel pressure im usually pretty good at fixing these things but cant figure it out i just keep running into problem after problem with this truck On top of this now the firewall has rusted out and i cant push my clutch pedal all the way in enough to put it in first if i cant figure thiS out then it maybe time to lay the ford to rest and go back to chevy

 

[tomw]

I would check the MAP sensor and also check that the FPR diaphragm is not punctured. It responds to throttle position [vacuum] to modify pressure to the injectors, leaner at high vacuum, cruise, richer on low vacuum - acceleration.
The MAP generally leads to poor idle if it fails. Same deal, intake vacuum being monitored for load, and the MAP tells the computer what the load is. If it is screwy, the computer will be modifying spritz time all over the place, leading to a lumpy and irregular idle.
tom

 

[redneck105]

Well put a new fuel pressure rugulator on hasnt fixed problem, the previous owner had already replaced map sensor right before i bought it should i go ahead and replace fuel pump