85 ranger 2.0

[bad luck]

think its either carb or ignition issue

when I start the truck for the first time of the day it idles like it has a big cam buffs black smoke after it runs for couple minutes it smooth out an no black smoke

ive put new cap rotor /wires /plugs /air filter /fuel filter

 

[bad luck]

found the cat is bad it temped 345 inlet 325 exit so I ordered new magnaflow cat today

hoping to get this figured out before I get the new cat installed

 

[tomw]

A sticking choke would give you lots of black smoke until it released. Some carbs have a 'vacuum pulloff' that pulls on the linkage to help open the choke once the engine starts and develops some vacuum. Until then, the spring holds the plate closed. You can look for a small metal-enclosed vacuum diaphragm that has a rod coming out one end and a vacuum connnection on the other. Mechanically, if you pull on the rod in the direction vacuum would move it, you likely have found a vacuum pulloff. Check that it works and holds vacuum.
Other than that, make sure all linkages are free to move, and not jammed or bent.
tom

 

[bad luck]

I have another carb its off a 84 2.3 that vacuum pod thing that's hooked up to the choke should hold vacuum right

 

[tomw]

Yes, as noted. When vacuum is applied it will just tip the choke plate open, like less than 1/4". Just enough to let more air in. The fast idle cam should be on one of the higher idle speed steps.
When you go to start a car with a carb, you have to 'set' the choke. Performed by pressing the gas pedal to the floor. The choke spring will move the plate closed, and the above cam will follow the linkage, and keep the throttle plate open more than hot idle speed.
tom
tom

 

[bad luck]

when I go to start the truck in the morning if I press more then just a tap it takes little longer to start

but on my extra carb I got from the pnp that vacuum pod thing wont hold vacuum at all

ill check on the ranger's carb to see if that holds vacuum

 

[bad luck]

ok finally had enough time to mess with it that vacuum pod thing for the choke slowly bleeds off

I tried putting my msd box from another project didn't change much it responded a bit better but for some reason to longer to start

 

[tomw]

Have you tried adjusting the choke spring? It can be adjusted for stronger or weaker application of the choke plate by loosening the clamp bolts and rotating it in either direction. One direction will make it choke more, the other will make it choke less. Some carbs do not have provision for adjustment, figuring things will never wear and will stay the same from the factory to the boneyard. Sure. Anyway, if you have too much choke, it will hold the choke plate closed too much. It should close, but be openable by poking gently with a finger.
tom

 

[bad luck]

I'll check the choke hopefully today


o ya I have looked at the oreilly site to check on how much some of the stuff is it lists throttle positioning sensor should my 2.0 ranger have this ive looked every were but couldn't find any unused connectors

 

[bad luck]

ok so checked the choke it has the same tension on the choke as my other pnp carb and isn't rough an doesn't hang up at any point

 

[bad luck]

what should I check next I need to smog it next month

 

[tomw]

If it runs well after warmup, then you can just drive it 10 miles out and 10 back to the SMOG station. Everything should be functional after a 20 mile run.
In CA, most aftermarket catalytic converters are frowned upon by C.A.R.B., and the inspection stations will fail you out of the box if you have aftermarket converter(s) that does not have the metal tag of approval and are not OEM.
To pass, from 20+ year memory, everything it came from when sold must still be in place, and working as designed. If you have a SES or CEL, neither must be lit. If you have a computer they will connect, see that it communicates, induce a fault by disconnecting something emissions related, and check that the appropriate light indicates a failure.
If you have a 2.0 with a carburetor, you won't have a TPS as you asked about. There may have been a solenoid that moved a metering rod, but I can't say for sure. If you have a smog pump, it must be connected, and the vacuum operated valves must be functional. I do not miss going to have my vehicles chedked. The 85 EFI 2.3 failed twice, went to the dealer, failed twice again, even after their 'cleaning' @ $120, and I had to go to a referee. With less than 6k miles on it. I hate smog checks.
tom

 

[bad luck]

for the most part the po took ok care to leaving all smog stuff alone an replaced what was needed

it has new smog pump /egr ive checked vacuum lines there all were they should go

ive done full tune up ran a lot better after that

the converter I got has the correct #'s an got the rest of the new exhaust ready to go in

from what I can see it doesn't have a ses or cel it just has an idle control box and a ignition control module

on the carb there's a solenoid that push's on the throttle linkage I think it works never ran it with out the air cleaner

 

[bad luck]

got the new converter and exhaust installed today seams to run better so far

the old converter looked like it was starting to break up inside

just hooked up a vacuum gauge at idle warm it bounces from 14 to 15 if I rev it abit it shows 20

 

[bad luck]

checked the timing today its 2 degrees btdc tried to get a wrench in there to loosen the distributor couldn't fit one under there so tmr im going to buy the right tool for it