'85 Factory AC System -- How to Repair

[ford4wd08]

Not off the top of head on the hose. Try Bronco Graveyard and LMC, and if no go there, may your Google Fu be strong. I'll look around when I get a chance.

Respectfully, Sir, a good wiring job needs to finished with nice, tasteful looming, not "hidden", and proudly displayed for all the world to admire.

And nothing aggravates me more, than shorted wires and magic smoke escaping.

Good luck, man! I'm sure we'll be talkin'.

When I say hidden, I mean in loom or tape.

You shamed me into ordering some loom and tape off Amazon..... You happy? LOL

LMC might have it.

Factory Air Conditioning Components

Shop our factory air conditioning components for Ford Ranger 1983-2011, Ford Bronco II 1984-90. Perfect for maintenance and care.

www.lmctruck.com

Looks to be backordered though.

 

[RobbieD]

You shamed me into ordering some loom and tape off Amazon..... You happy? LOL

Haha! I just couldn't resist one little dig. I well know how these "works in progress" go. You're really doing a great job on giving that truck a second life, and you can be rightfully proud of what you've accomplished.

Hopefully that is the hose, or otherwise, that you'll be able to track it down.

I know that you ought to mull things over, and decide on how best to proceed with the AC. I'll be glad to post up anything you need out of the shop manual, so just holler if you need anything.

 

[franklin2]

I just went by the factory recommendations on how much, and how to distribute it. I can look that up for you. You'll need PAG-46 oil, not the ester oil that was used in the old R12 system. These two don't mix- that's another reason I like using all new parts, besides the flushed evaporator.



Yes. There's the small one between the condenser and drier. The one from the evaporator to the compressor (suction) and the third goes from the compressor to the condenser.

You got a little mixed up there in your oil types. The original r12 system had mineral oil in it. The conversion kits come with ester oil. The ester oil plays nice with the original mineral oil, which is why you can pull a vacuum and dump the conversion kit in and go. The old mineral oil left in the system just sits there and doesn't mix with the new ester oil in the conversion kit.

Now if you want to use the PAG oil, then yes you will need to get ALL the old mineral oil out of the system. Not sure what they are putting in the new or rebuilt compressors. All other new components should be dry. You will probably need to flush the evaporator in the firewall, and any hoses you reuse and the condenser if you re-use that.

 

[RobbieD]

@franklin2 - Thanks for correcting that. I should know better than to rely on an old and failing memory!

 

[ford4wd08]

So this might be a stupid question, but how do you get the lines apart from the drier condensor etc where there isn't a nut? Is it a quick connect line a fuel line where you need a tool?

 

[RobbieD]

"Spring Lock" connections. It does take a special tool, which is not expensive.

 

[franklin2]

I will prepare you. They can be a real pain to get apart sometimes, even with the tool.

 

[ford4wd08]

I'll look into the tool. Figure I'll take my system apart soon and order parts.

 

[ford4wd08]

I actually might have some aluminum disconnect tools somewhere. I used them on fuel lines before.

 

[Shran]

That tool that franklin posted is what I use...and a couple other similar styles. That reminds me, I had a hell of a time with one of the new lines on my last AC job... one quick connect had a weird spring that wouldn't quite clip on. It felt like it clicked when I pushed it together and held vacuum but blew off when I started charging the system. Keep a very close eye on the springs, make damn sure it's clipped in place!

 

[ford4wd08]

Found a stacked plate style condenser in stock today online, so I ordered it and compressor and component kit from Rock Auto. I plan on flushing evap and hoses then installing new orings and everything that comes in the kit.

I'll rent the vacuum pump and hoses from my local Orielly's and try to get it charged up in the next week or so.

Guess I'll just run with R134A as the new condenser should help with that.

 

[RobbieD]

I take it that the component kit includes a new dryer/accumulator and a new orifice valve.

Good luck; I hope that everything goes real smooth for you.

 

[ford4wd08]

I take it that the component kit includes a new dryer/accumulator and a new orifice valve.

Good luck; I hope that everything goes real smooth for you.

Yep. You guess right.

Hope so. Biggest concern is getting the lines apart.

 

[Shran]

I wonder if it wouldn't hurt to replace the evap core... they are only about $60, I feel like they get kinda fragile over time and probably plugged up full of leaves and stuff unless you have cleaned it out. Easier to get to on your truck too since you don't have the intake tube, coil pack and a ton of wiring in the way.

The more AC work I do, the more I feel like replacing everything is the way to go.

 

[franklin2]

I can verify the evap coil gets plugged up. It's more like a mud from the condensation on the coil combined with dirt from outside. I had a old 1980 f150 and it always had marginal heat output, even with a new heater core and thermostat. I pull the evap coil out and cleaned it. what a mess. Also got a pile of pencils, pens, wrist watches and junk that had fell down in from the defroster vents. Once I cleaned that A/C coil out, I had tons of heat in the cab.