'85 Bronco II 2.8 Running Rich

[ford4wd08]

Hi all,

Since I put the new fuel pump on my BII it has been running very rich and has black sooty exhaust at startup.

I know this is usually a symptom of bad electronics or float on the feedback carb.

This brings me to my question, it appears that my choke is not working properly on my carb and that all of my original electronics are crapping out. I can't find the solenoid that goes on the back of the carb by itself online. Has anyone purchased a remanufactured carb from Autolite? The picture on Rock Auto looks identical to mine.

I would do the duraspark, but that seems to be complicated on an '85 and I have the A4LD I would like to keep the lock up converter.

On a side note the BII died on me driving today. I think the fuel system needs to be looked at again. I just put a new fuel pump in this past week. I'll confirm everything again soon.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Injectors may have crap in them if you've changed pumps. Is the fuel filter new?

Duraspark conversions have been done a plenty. Lots of experts on it around. I hear HEI works as well.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Also, consider a not terrible carb. As I also hear, there's a much better one that will fit.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Pick on the choke first, if it isn't working right (opening too slow) it will cause the engine to run rich.

The choke also doesn't get full 12v so resist the temptation to put 12v to it, it will open too fast.

 

[ford4wd08]

Fuel filter at the carb is new. Not sure whay you mean by injectors? But the needles and seats and all are were cleaned when I rebuilt the carb.

I'm not worried about the carb and ignition of a duraspark swap, I'm more worried removing the ECM and what it will do to the shifting and locking of the converter in the A4LD.

On a side note, it won't start right now unless I keep my foot in the pedal. Something is not right in the carb department. Guess I'll have to do some investigation when I have time over the next week.

 

[ford4wd08]

Pick on the choke first, if it isn't working right (opening too slow) it will cause the engine to run rich.

The choke also doesn't get full 12v so resist the temptation to put 12v to it, it will open too fast.

I dont believe the choke has ever been right. I don't see the plate move at all when I start it, the vaccum pull off is working as it I can see it move under vaccum. I'm curious how the TPS plays into all of this as well.

 

[ford4wd08]

I just remember a vacuum line that got knocked off the back of the carb once before and made it very difficult to get the BII to run, I'll have to check that hose tonight as I bet that could be the issue for the not running part.

As to the rich part I'll have to keep digging.

 

[ford4wd08]

Just an FYI, I found a pretty good exploded view when I did some research on the carb today.

http://www.carburetion.com/diags/2150diag.jpg

 

[ford4wd08]

Another Jeep site has pretty good pictures on a 2150 rebuild.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?s=986706e259a771ba9e1b7ae54d83cdbb&t=101921&page=2

 

[ford4wd08]

As suspected I figured out the reason the BII would run.... Major vacuum leak. the PCV hose popped lose again. I used a zip tie to hold it in place for now.

After looking at choke setups online today for the 2150a, mine seems all sorts of screwed up. Looks like the electric choke coil is way off to me, and I'm not even sure the linkage is hooked up right. The choke plate sits open a little, but I'm not sure it ever moves like intended while running. I understand that the choke plate should be fully closed when cold, the the vacuum pull off will open it a little when started and engine running while the electric choke coil opens up when heated upto finally have the choke plate at fully open while warm.

I don't think mine is doing anything. Any tips on where to start? Oh, I also read that you can use a dremel to make slots on the choke screws so you can remove it. Was this model never intended to be replaced?

Also, anyone have any tips to confirm the solenoid on the back of the carb and the tps are functioning properly?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I haven't actually tried this...if the engine is cold maybe a heat gun or hairdryer on the choke housing for awhile and see if the choke plate opens.

A Solinoid will be either open or close with the application of 12V. So disconnect the wires and apply 12V and see if it moves.

 

[ford4wd08]

I'm trying to understand the actual electronics on the 2150A carb.

I know what the TPS is and what it does, but what is the solenoid or whatever that is plugged into the back of the carb? I can't find any replacements or what it is even called in my searching so far.

What purpose does it serve?

 

[RobbieD]

I'm trying to understand the actual electronics on the 2150A carb.

I know what the TPS is and what it does, but what is the solenoid or whatever that is plugged into the back of the carb? I can't find any replacements or what it is even called in my searching so far.

What purpose does it serve?

I wish that I could help you on trying to get your original feedback system to work right. When I first got my '84 2.8L at first I tried to work with the feedback system, but ended up converting to Duraspark.

I do have some original Ford guides for 1983 and 1984 EEC IV feedback systems; here's two pages that I hope helps you.

 

[ford4wd08]

I wish that I could help you on trying to get your original feedback system to work right. When I first got my '84 2.8L at first I tried to work with the feedback system, but ended up converting to Duraspark.

I do have some original Ford guides for 1983 and 1984 EEC IV feedback systems; here's two pages that I hope helps you.
View attachment 32564View attachment 32565

Wow, thank you for the information! What book is that out of? A factory service manual?

 

[RobbieD]

Yes, it's a 1982 Ford training manual titled "2.8L V-6 Engine".