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85 B2 with 302, looking for new long block


superds

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Supporting Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Jan 23, 2010
Messages
1,699
City
ND
Vehicle Year
1984
Engine
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
2" body. 1.5" coil spring spacers/rear block
We have an 85 BII with an old 302 swap done by a few owners ago. The engine is tired and we've decided to put a new long block in. Looking for reasonable cost and ease of installation since we don't need a ton of power. It's believed the current engine came from a late 70s Ford car. Probably a 78 LTD (what PO thought), I can look for casting numbers but the vehicle is not handy.

I've priced out a few options from auto parts store in the range of $1200-$1700. I'm comptemplating using a long block from an 87 F150 302. My research indicates it has better heads than late 70s or early 80s 302 and the price is pretty good ($1275). Any issues putting my current parts on this engine?

For reference, a few of the details about current setup:
Edelbrock intake
Edelbrock carb (plan to swap to a Motorcraft 2150 that I have laying around due to fuel issues offroad)
Electric fuel pump
Electric cooling fans
MSD ignition (don't know off hand what the distributor gear is made from)
Headers, probably from a company that makes swap parts, like James Duff or similar.

Would the 87 F150 be a good application to spec out a long block or is there a better choice? I'm not looking for a ton of power, just reasonable price and ease of installation. I'm open to options, just don't know what would be better. Any opinions?
 
You might price a 96-97 Explorer too, they are probably the best setup when it is all said and done. I would dodge the later (98-01) ones with the GT-40P heads, they don't make much more power and limit your plug wires and/or header selection. The earlier can use whatever you have on your current engine.

A true '87 F-150 block will already be set up for a roller cam which is nice if you want to go that route and not have to worry about breaking in a cam. FWIW I loved the powerband of my '87 Crown Vic engine, tons of torque down low. I went to HO and I have a lot more top end but lost some off the bottom.

If you can round them up the Explorer accessories also fit very nice.

If you offroad a lot you might check out dangerranger83's build thread, he just installed a bolt on EFI (FiTech or something like that IIRC) setup on his Ranger. They run about $800 (2x a new 4bbl I know) but are a pretty sophisticated setup.
 
Later Mustang GT's and Lincoln LSC's have forged internals making them likely the best short blocks.

The Explorers got the GT40 or GT40P heads, the clear winners for "best heads".

Mustang Cobra's got both but its far easier to find and build up a long block with Expo heads on an LSC/Stang block than to find a Cobra long block.
 
In 93 the mustang didn't have forged pistons. But if he wanted a good longblock,I've bought a couple through out the from autozone, had good luck. But if I was to do it over I would just buy a used one...a lot cheaper if you know what to look for.
 
If you are not boosting the forged pistons don't really add much... and a rebuilder probably won't put them back in.
 
This pic will show you where the casting numbers are located on your block.
IMG_0430.jpg

Find those letters and numbers to identify what year engine you have..
IMG_0431.jpg

These are what your looking for.
I thought I had a pic of the heads casting numbers, but cant find it. They should have a number and letters as well.
 
I don't think there's a need for forged internals. This is never going to be a high HP application. I think the sub 200 HP range is suitable for this B2 since it just sees some family trail riding.

I kinda like the late 80s Crown Vic option, it would have the dual sump setup that would work be comparable to what's in the B2 now. It comes with a roller cam but has E6 heads, which I hear aren't as desireable as the E7 heads found in the F150 application.

The 96-97 Explorer long block is nice (I have a 96 Explorer 5.0 going in another B2 in my signature) but it's a bit pricey compared to other options. I priced out a long block around $1700-$1800 at O'Reilly.

I appreciate all the responses, some good knowledge here.

Hopefully this weekend I'll get around to looking at the current engine to see what the casting numbers are. Thanks for posting the pics of the locations, BLOODBANE.
 
I put together a list of the options and I think I covered most of the suggestions from here, let me know and I can price out other options for comparison.



I think I like the 70 Mustang ("retrofit" option) or 87 LTD since you get the roller cam which I think is a nice feature.
 

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Make sure when you get your engine that your using the correct weight flex plate (if auto). The earlier year 302's used a 28.8 0z weight on the flex plate and after 78-80 (?, sorry dont remember the actual year they switched)they went to a 50 oz (stupid FORD having to change stuff) they are externally balanced, so it does make a difference
 
I figured I'd probably have to get a new flexplate. I assume the engine in there has a 28.8 oz. imbalance and most of the long blocks I'm looking at are made after they switched to 50 oz.
 
Well, tried to identify the heads and block casting numbers yesterday with little luck so we pulled the engine today. Block is E0ae and couldn't determine what the heads were, only could find a date code, something like 3M23 and 3L14. Looks to me the heads are from 1983.



Do you think the auto parts store would accept this engine as a core for a different long block that was purchased from them?
 
You could probably take them a Chevy engine and they wouldn't know the difference.
 
In that case, do you think they'd notice a couple missing cylinders? ;)
 

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