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85 B2 on 36" Military tires


Klitch

Active Member
Joined
May 29, 2008
Messages
27
City
Benton City Wa
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Automatic
Hey guys I thought I'd share, give a few chuckles.

004_439138.jpg


In all seriousness, I'm looking for a few things around here, all budget minded, I got the truck for $300 and I plan on low dollar build. I dont need to find myself getting into the really hairy situations anyway. Northwest wheeling, narrow trails mostly.
  • Ideas on rollcage/exocage, I want access to rear for my daughter.
  • Maximum useable flexibility, without sacrificing CG too much to be fun. what can I do realistically?

I'm currently on the stock 7.5 and D28, I want to jump up to the D35 and 8.8, just havent had time to just yet.
 
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roll cage is at the bottom of the list, ur gonna need to address the fact that it doesnt appear u have the ability to turn, u need exploder axles and a lift, and when u do exploder axle., 5.13 gears, then maybe itll turn the tires worth having

Hey guys I thought I'd share, give a few chuckles.

004_439138.jpg


In all seriousness, I'm looking for a few things around here, all budget minded, I got the truck for $300 and I plan on low dollar build. I dont need to find myself getting into the really hairy situations anyway. Northwest wheeling, narrow trails mostly.
  • Ideas on rollcage/exocage, I want access to rear for my daughter.
  • Maximum useable flexibility, without sacrificing CG too much to be fun. what can I do realistically?

I'm currently on the stock 7.5 and D28, I want to jump up to the D35 and 8.8, just havent had time to just yet.
 
holy chicken stuft burrito batman


yeah, i'd get those stock axles as far away from that vehicle as possible. if you want a low COG, i'd just throw some 4" springs on there while you're installing the 8.8/d35....you could use exploder springs and some lift shackles for the rear. then cut the fenders if needed.

looks cool tho
 
5x4.5....16.5" rims?????????:icon_confused:
 
That things must have no takeoff at all with those tires on there! It looks cool though.
Explorer axles are pretty easy to swap, me and a friend did it on mine.
 
I did a 4" long arm lift on mine and went with 35's, so with a little more fender trimming than I did, you should clear those 36's no problem. Basically, I cut out the entire factory flare, so approximately 3-4". I'm running the 2.9 with 4.56's and it does alright, nothing to write home about. Once it's in 4lo it's all good though. For you, I'd go at least 5.13
 
I'd go with the Dana 35/44 hybrid TTB so it'll bolt up stock and give you the best of both worlds in strength.

The rear should be a cut down ford 9 inch. I think you can get custom housings and axles for pretty cheap with a junkyard thrid member... make sure you get a nodular one, the tech library has everything you need to know and look for when you're searching around.

I'd also go with a body lift before going with a suspension lift... body lifts are cheaper and 3 inches is safe, stable, and won't require you to modify your wiring (at least on the ranger it doesn't) Hope this helps.
 
:icon_twisted: Ya'll woke up!

5x4.5....16.5" rims?????????:icon_confused:
Custom ordered, Unique Wheel company. I think $80 a piece, not too bad considering at the time I ordered them they were only $20 more a piece than most steel wheels

holy chicken stuft burrito batman


yeah, i'd get those stock axles as far away from that vehicle as possible. if you want a low COG, i'd just throw some 4" springs on there while you're installing the 8.8/d35....you could use exploder springs and some lift shackles for the rear. then cut the fenders if needed.

looks cool tho
I have a wrecked 93 4dr, I'll have to ask what my brother used (I know axles are gone he has them on his 89), maybe I can still get leafs. You're referring to rear only correct? I have access for 4" and 6" coils also, I dont remember which ones were best on the dirt.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95936

Check this out. Some things came up and he had to put off his build, but there is enough there to give you an idea or two. But you definitely need to get rid of the stock axles.

-Jester
I seen this thread, I backed out when I spotted SAS, I hadn't quite planned on that yet. I think he's doing more body work than I ever wanted to think about :icon_rofl: I'm still reading his on pirate, looks like the rear may not be out of my scope for body work if I can reuse the factory wheel tubs, just enhance them.

I'd go with the Dana 35/44 hybrid TTB so it'll bolt up stock and give you the best of both worlds in strength.

The rear should be a cut down ford 9 inch. I think you can get custom housings and axles for pretty cheap with a junkyard thrid member... make sure you get a nodular one, the tech library has everything you need to know and look for when you're searching around.

I'd also go with a body lift before going with a suspension lift... body lifts are cheaper and 3 inches is safe, stable, and won't require you to modify your wiring (at least on the ranger it doesn't) Hope this helps.
Is the 35/44 TTB in a writeup or the tech library?

Hey ya know, the body lift might be right up my alley, I've been bouncing around in this thing out by the house, so far it does quite a bit of what my brothers 89 does, he's basically the bench mark since he has the winch :icon_thumby:
I may be able to locate a 9" thats not being used. I think its the one under my 67 fairlane is the wrong one for that car anyway. I have no problem using a 8.8 though.


I did a 4" long arm lift on mine and went with 35's, so with a little more fender trimming than I did, you should clear those 36's no problem. Basically, I cut out the entire factory flare, so approximately 3-4". I'm running the 2.9 with 4.56's and it does alright, nothing to write home about. Once it's in 4lo it's all good though. For you, I'd go at least 5.13
I may also be able to repair the long arms I've found, need to ask brothers friend if he wants them first.



All in all
  • Steal the 93 exploder rear leafs
  • Grab the 4" springs, research 35/44 hybrid, also long arms with the hybrid?
  • Weigh options of 9" rear cut down
I do hope to steal the 4.0 out of the exploder too.

So much coming at me at once, hard to be sure I got it all in. Thanks guys :icon_thumby: best response I've gotten yet.

Oh and so ya don't razz me too much, I got tired of the stock almost bald tires going flat on me every couple weeks. These hold air, and well of course I cant resist a little bit of playing.
 
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I have a wrecked 93 4dr, I'll have to ask what my brother used (I know axles are gone he has them on his 89), maybe I can still get leafs. You're referring to rear only correct? I have access for 4" and 6" coils also, I dont remember which ones were best on the dirt.

yeah i was refering to the rear....explorer springs will give 1-2" and the shackles will give you around 2".......for the front, any ttb lift springs you buy are gonna be stiff as hell, some throw jeep coils in there b/c they're a little softer, they ride better and flex better. it really just depends on how much lift you want.

with your fender job, it looks like some 4 inch springs would be just about right, 2 more inches couldnt hurt tho. you could always add a body lift or cut off some more fender
 
yeah i was refering to the rear....explorer springs will give 1-2" and the shackles will give you around 2".......for the front, any ttb lift springs you buy are gonna be stiff as hell, some throw jeep coils in there b/c they're a little softer, they ride better and flex better. it really just depends on how much lift you want.

with your fender job, it looks like some 4 inch springs would be just about right, 2 more inches couldnt hurt tho. you could always add a body lift or cut off some more fender
I kinda figured I really didn't want to use the lift coils, my brother has come jeep coils on his but he's up higher than I wanted, or I should say thought was safe for CG on the B2. Which coils are on your mind?

Fenders are always up for hackin out :D

That one D'cheat has, red on 38"s looked nicely done, wish I'd seen better pics of his fender work.
 
Hmmm... seems like what you have in mind is exactly what I've done so far. Check out my build thread (click 87 BII in my signature) to see what goes on. I reused the inner tub (mostly) and just welded in a patch. Any questions, just ask. Been down that road already. :icon_thumby:
**edit** Just use an Expo 8.8 on there. Don't have to narrow it, and if you get the right vintage, factory discs. Equally as strong as a nine IMO. Plus, you've already got them fancy custom wheels with 5x4.5 spacing. Also, if you do a D44 knuckle swap, you'll lose your bolt pattern and thus your custom rims. Only advantage to the knuckle swap really is a beefier hub. A couple other minor things too, but keeping your custom rims in mind...
 
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you could get some explorer leafs, a 1 inch block and run some jeep 3" lift coils, that ought to keep it pretty low

but if you dont wanna go too high, just do what someone else said and do a body lift and cut some more fender out of the way
 
I keep coming back here and adding my 2 cents... haha.
I used Expo leaves, no block and Belltech 6400 shackles on mine. Coupled with 4" front coils it sits pretty much level (maybe a 1/4" higher in back...), and the COG on 35's very low. I'm actually 2" wider than I am tall with Expo 8.8 and D35. If you went up one more inch (however you go about gaining 1" is your call) you would still have a good COG.
 
Is the 35/44 TTB in a writeup or the tech library?

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/44knuckleswap.htm

Also this:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47420&highlight=knuckles



Honestly, I think the stock D35 ends should be fine as long as you're not running an extremely wide offset on those rims (they look well within reason in your pic), and you aren't having any issues with overheating the brake rotors (warping them).
The D44 stub axle is a slight hair stronger than the D35 stub though I would suggest running it with the stock ends for a while. You can always put the D44 stuff on at a later date if needed.
I've been running the stock ends with Jeep locking hubs and 35x12.50 tires on mine for some years now and have had 0 issues with it.

If you want decent flex, you should get at least a couple inches lift in the suspension for some more clearance between your axles and the bumpstops (3-4" lift seems the best amount of lift while keeping the steering manageable if you want to use Jeep coils or something similar). A 2 or 3" body lift can be added above that if needed.

Hope that helps. Nice looking BII too, looks like it's got plenty of potential. :icon_thumby:
 

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