I have a 85 T-bird 2.3t in 93 ranger with 86merk computer. It has Garrett t3/t4 turbo with an aftermarket IC. I have brown injectors and I am installing dual boost controller. What psi should stage 1 and 2 be and do I need a BOV and where does it go?
Below is a great site that I have used many years and should answer about any question you have regarding the Lima 2.3T. I have owned a Merkur XR4Ti since 2008. Recently just traded for a 2000 Ranger with a 2.3T swap. Seeing as this is my first Ranger I was on here looking for and tips, tricks or general 'need-to' information and came across your post. I would like to address some replies from above.
If you are still running the factory Velocity Air Meter(pre-Mass Air), that comes factory on all the 2.3T engines, regardless of year or make, and you want to run a BOV, you need to recirculate it back into the the intercooler piping. You can find factory ones from VW/Audi and others if you don't want to buy new. The other route is you use a Dual Piston Bypass Valve. You will still get the BOV sounds, if that's what your after, but as soon as you as the exiting positive pressure drops below the spring rate in the DPBV, it closes the system so there is no loss of any incoming metered air. I personally run Forge Motorsports DPBV but there are several other options out there.
The Merkur XR4Ti came factory with a dual boost controller of sorts. Boost the auto trans car was limited to 10psi under 5k rpm and would go to 12psi above 5k rpm and for the manual 12psi and 14psi respectively. If you want to run the aftermarket Dual Boost Controller, without knowing the condition of your motor, personally, I would run maybe Stage 1 at 10-12psi and Stage 2 14-16psi. These motors are notorious for blowing head gaskets. [The following is at your own risk] If you are confident in the health of your motor, correct base timing, TPS set correctly, fuel system is up to snuff(255lph fuel pump), the health of your auxiliary oil pump shaft and gears, you have a wideband O2 to monitor air/fuel ratio and several other things, then you could explore the lower 20psi range and really wake up these motors. I daily drove most all the XRs that I had around the 20psi mark. But I had swapped out the factory Merkur EEC-IV and VAM over to the '87 Turbo Coupe EEC-IV. Reason for the swap was due to the fact that the Turbo Coupe came factory intercooled in '87 and '88. Were as the Merkur never came factory intercooled. There for the timing and fueling maps were better suited to my intercooled setup. If you do end up having to do a head gasket try to find the Fel-pro 1095 gasket. It was for the SVO and was made to handle the boost a little better than the standard Fel-pro 8993.
Last thing, pulled directly from the site below:
With stock crank, rods, pistons, etc., many people have safely ran them in the 400-415rwhp range for quite a long time. A few people have made 515-550rwhp for a few wide open pulls before throwing a rod.
Like I mentioned at the beginning this site has just about everything thing you want to know about these engines and how to squeeze every bit of power out of it, no matter the budget.
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