85 2.3 water in oil revisited

[coleboy11]

First of all, thanks everyone for the help thus far, I am grateful.

After my ordeal with what seemed may have been a head-gasket leak, I have suspected that it is most likely gas that is somehow getting into the crank-case. Strange things continue to happen however, as each time I fix a small leak in the radiator a new one pops up. These leaks are small enough that it is hardly noticeable, but they are there no less. I am chronically pissed off at this point, because I thought for sure I would be able to determine once and for all if there was a head-gasket leak once I determined the cooling system was not at fault. I have become an alcoholic and a JB Weld master to boot. I drive this beast 100 miles round-trip a day. Can anyone here confirm or deny the integrity of these radiators? I have the original and a spare and they both leak. Each time I patch a leak, a new one pops up. Should I just cram a goddam bullet-proof radiator in there from a 73 Camper Special?

 

[RonD]

I don't have a 2.3l rad but have you replaced the rad cap, and maybe gone to a lower pressure one.
13psi is spec for your system.
Old cap can raise the pressure, higher pressure = more leaks

Also electrolysis eats metal pretty fast, make sure rad metal is grounded, like the engine.

And if you are running mostly water because of the leaks that helps the metal deteriorate faster.

 

[coleboy11]

Water in the RAD was only a temporary thing, but it doesnt explain why the spare radiator is leaking too which I know for sure was run with antifreeze. Yup, makes me think pressure is the issue which also makes one wonder about head gasket issues as well...

 

[RonD]

Simple test for a head gasket or cracked head issue is the "glove or balloon test"


Once all leaks are fixed, , remove rad cap and overflow tube.
Have a latex glove or plastic baggie on hand.
Start cold engine.
If coolant starts to come out rad cap opening that is a bad sign, there is no pressure in a cold cooling system, water pump doesn't add any pressure it just circulates coolant, pressure comes only when coolant gets up to 150+ deg and starts to expand.
OK so no coolant came out.
Put glove or bag over rad cap opening and pinch it tight, put finger over overflow tube opening, system is now sealed.

If glove or bag starts to inflate then you have a head gasket issue or crack that is leaking cylinder pressure into the cooling system.

 

[coleboy11]

Thanks Ron, and I have in fact performed this test a couple times already. The glove didn't air up even after a lengthy amount of time, but does that mean beyond a shadow of a doubt that there is no head gasket leak or just that no exhaust gases are getting in there?

 

[Mark_88]

I had a similar problem with my rad...it leaked...I farted around with it to no end until I finally managed to fry the head...cracked it from an overheat that crept up on me like a ninja with fresh breath...

So...I managed to actually buy a new rad for under $150 and replaced the old one...then I found out about the head crack...through major oil consumption...and on top of this the bottom end farts, er, has blow-by...meaning now that I've fixed the rad, fixed the head and upgraded my oil catch can I now will need to replace or rebuild the block...

So, long story longer...get the rad replaced ASAP and hope you haven't done any further damage to the head...they really are easy to replace and I would also suggest new hoses...if you can manage that...I had one sitting in my spare parts box for the top rad hose and it was probably a good thing I did because while changing the head I found the top hose to be very close to trying to imitate old faithful...

They can seem to be a lot of work once they are let go too long...and that is why we need to stay on top of things...

Buy parts that you can assume will need replacing when you can...try to always keep a spare of everything...including things like hose clamps...and you will be glad you did when one of those issues pops up...

 

[RonD]

Thanks Ron, and I have in fact performed this test a couple times already. The glove didn't air up even after a lengthy amount of time, but does that mean beyond a shadow of a doubt that there is no head gasket leak or just that no exhaust gases are getting in there?

It is pretty definitive.
The 150+PSI of compression and the 800+PSI of combustion are surround by the cooling system.

The 0psi to 16psi cooling system really is no match.
Coolant can be sucked into the cylinder on the intake stroke, because cylinder pressure is less than 0psi and cooling system is a plus PSI, so you can get the "coolant smoke and smell" in the exhaust.

So even a small defect in one of the head gasket's cylinder rings would be detected with the glove.

Coolant to oil breach in the head without a cylinder to cooling system breach is rare, I have never seen this personally.
When a head gasket "blows" quite often the failure extends out past the cooling passages and to an oil passage, so you get a milky oil.

On V6-V8 engines the intake manifold is used to carry coolant from one bank to the other, a failure in the intake gasket will cause coolant in the oil and head gasket remains intact.

 

[coleboy11]

Putting Farting engines aside for a moment, I think a new RAD is in order here but they are over a hundred bucks and the industrial mega-tubes of JB Weld are around 20. No seriously, this radiator seems to be falling apart at the seams. Also needs tires, struts and shocks, brakes, wheel cylinders, new bearings, body work and a paint job...guess I'll add it to the list.

 

[RonD]

Wrecking yards got rads

Good warm water soaking with CLR a few times and you got a clean, well pretty clean rad.

 

[Mark_88]

Wrecking yards got rads

Good warm water soaking with CLR a few times and you got a clean, well pretty clean rad.

Yes, I've had a few from wrecking yards and they worked out OK...lasted a few years and saved me a few bucks...make sure it's been pressure tested

I also got a used rad from a rad repair shop after some idiot decided he could cut in front of me...I drove away from that one but he didn't...only later did I discover that the transmission line was leaking...amazingly enough I was able to bypass the rad with a piece of brake line...fortunately it was winter and provided enough cooling till I got the replacement rad...

 

[coleboy11]

I don't know where you guys are at, but they are fresh out of radiators around here for trucks that old (85).

 

[Mark_88]

Doesn't need to be for an 85 as long as the top hose is on the right (looking from the front) and the bottom hose is on the left...only thing you need to worry about is whether or not you need transmission cooling...

 

[coleboy11]

Well that's what I was thinking too, but I'll be damned if thats what they say every time at the junkyards I call. "We ain't got nothin' that old Bud, CLICK"
I know a junkyard with some newer model rangers I might check out though.

 

[RonD]

If you look at on-line auto parts stores you can find rads that fit your model, ......and it will also list the other years and models it fits, your rad might be the same rad that was used from 1984-1994, don't know.