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84 Ranger 2.8 Manual choke help.


goofy3392

Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
17
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Automatic
ok, I know installing a manual choke should be easy beginner stuff, but it's really giving me a hard time. I got it all routed ok and I had the outer cable clamped on the bracket, and the bracket is bolted with the back carb base stud. Now the trouble I'm having is when I tighten the screw to pinch the inner wire of the choke cable, and then I try pulling the choke knob out, it wont pull. But if I loosen the screw for the inner wire, now the knob moves no problem. The choke moves easy with my fingers, I'm stumped on this and I know it should be a real easy thing to install :bawling:

Anyone have any tips or pictures of their manual choke setup?

p.s. I did search but there was one thread about it and it was in 2009 and never got answered.
 
The problem with manual chokes is that many people do NOT leave enough space (nor arc) between the pull point (where the outside sheath is mounted) and the actual choke pull lever inside the old round housing.

there should be at least 1-1/2" to 2" space between the sheath and the open position of the pull lever, remember Open position (this is knob in).

The other half of this is that the original round housing (generally black plastic) works in a circle, where as the manual pull, works in a straight line, SO, with that said, the mounting of the sheath must be on an artificial centerline between open and closed, OF the lever in the old housing, MANY people can't (or won't) take the time to make a good bracket for this, and thus end up with a binding in the choke pull..

With all the hassle, I would have simply replaced the original equipment part that was buggered, and you would not have to go through all of this and I wouldn't have to type all of this with only 9 fingers.....

Greg
 
You have to floor the gas pedal while you pull the choke or the fast idle cam will prevent the shaft from being rotated.
 
I messed around with it again today, but it would barely work. Or I'd get to close the choke, but then it wouldn't push it back open. I tried drilling a hole further up in the firewall but that didn't help, I tried moving the bracket back further and that seemed to help, but it wouldn't push open the choke, the cable would just get stuck and hump up between the choke arm and the bracket.

So I decided to screw it and just buy a new thermostat. I wasn't really opposed to auto choke, but my local parts store didn't have any in stock, but they had a manual choke kit, but I'm going to order a thermostat from Rockauto.
 
I do know how you feel, as there are times when a manual one would work better....

BTW, does the actual choke lever (in the housing) work freely ?? remember someone ese had stated something I missed, the "fast Idle" has to be set (push the throttle open and pull the choke, let the throttle go, the choke should NOW move freely back and forth between fully open and fully closed (without the manual hooked up.)

Ah, Martin was the one with the reminder about the fast idle cam. Good one Martin !!

Greg
 
Last edited:
Yeah the choke arm moves easy, even if i grab it where the wire connects to the choke arm. I don't know what my problem is, i tried lots of different positions, I could only find 2 places to mount the bracket, the stud on the carb, and a stud on the Heater box, but that puts the bracket really far back on the sheathing. I even got the cable like pretty straight and inline with the choke arm, but it still binds as soon as i tighten the inner wire to the choke arm.

Maybe its because i have to many curves in the cable? It only has one S curve and its not very tight. I have the cable coming through a hole at the transmission tunnel Pretty close to the distributor then it makes the S to the carburetor.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
if you overtighten the claamp holding the sheeath it will pinch the cable. it only needs to be snug. just tight enough that the sheath wont slide
 
if you need a carb, i have one. it wworks great. im doing a 4.0 swap so i dont need it anymore
 
Is it a non feedback carb?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
Well on a plus side, today i got the manual choke working, kind of. It closes real easy but to open it i have to wiggle the knob back and forth. But it'll be good enough until i get the auto choke.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

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