84 Bronco II, no start!

[Sweet-85']

84 Bronco II, duraspark conversion. Won't start, starts for a second if I pour gas in the carb, it has fresh gas in the tank. Opened the carb and there is no fuel in the bowl... Ideas???? It's been sitting about a year... Update, put fuel in the bowl, and she fires, and will rev if I hit the gas, but won't stay running as soon as I let go of the key...

 

[bronco2fan]

Are you saying if you hold the key in the start position it stays running? If you let go and the switch returns to run position it cuts off? If so that's an ignition switch problem. If not that then more info is needed to help you.

 

[Sweet-85']

Are you saying if you hold the key in the start position it stays running? If you let go and the switch returns to run position it cuts off? If so that's an ignition switch problem. If not that then more info is needed to help you.

Yes, somewhat. It will semi run while cranking with the starter (about 450 rpm) sounds like a hit/miss deal. If I hit the gas pedal, it'll rev to 2000, 3000 etc, but if I let go of the key (even if I keep my foot on the gas), it dies. There was also no fuel in the carb, but I filled the bowl and it fires without help of carb cleaner or starting fluid...

 

[bronco2fan]

I'm still confused here. It starts but dies, doesn't matter where the switch is? Or if it starts and dies when you let the switch go to run position? Gotta be one or the other. Can't help if we don't know the problems. Have you checked the duraspark checklist in the tech section too?

 

[Big Jim M]

Jump the coil directly to the battery and see if it will start and keep running. Leave existing wires in place and just add the jumper.
Big Jim

 

[Sweet-85']

I'm still confused here. It starts but dies, doesn't matter where the switch is? Or if it starts and dies when you let the switch go to run position? Gotta be one or the other. Can't help if we don't know the problems. Have you checked the duraspark checklist in the tech section too?

It has run with duraspark before, it's just been sitting for a while. It will run in the start position, dies when key is returned to run. I think it's a combination of the ignition switch and the fuel pump I'm sure is bad too.

 

[enjr44]

It has run with duraspark before, it's just been sitting for a while. It will run in the start position, dies when key is returned to run. I think it's a combination of the ignition switch and the fuel pump I'm sure is bad too.

I think you answered your own question. Fix the fuel pump (like that was the only problem) and then work on the other one.

Just "hot wire" the thing like you were trying to steal it. That will tell you where you are.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to882_9.JPG

 

[bronco2fan]

Yeah, hot wire it and see if stays running, if so, ignition switch is bad. But I've never had one go bad on mine and it's as old as yours. Fuel pump is a easy fix, like 20 bucks tops. Had to change mine out like 3 times since I've owned it. Keep us posted, love 84 BII's .

 

[Sweet-85']

New dilemma, UGH, replaced the ignition switch (old one fell apart upon removal), now the key tumbler doesn't make any contacts. It will go from the initial position (key in, to unlocking the key-its a 5spd) and will spin to the full start position with no resistance. I'm losing my mind a little here guys! lol What is it now?

 

[Sweet-85']

Yeah, I has the dumb. Gotta have the ignition switch mounted for the tumbler to work lol. Got it started and running. Runs way too rich, it has a like a 350 or 400 CFM motorcraft 2bbl from a larger vehicle, when it was rebuilt, I don't think it was re-jetted. So it idles at 550-600 with the idle screw backed all the way out, and the idle mixture screw backed almost all the way out. But, when you try to drive it, it acts like it wants to flood/die. When you give it gas in gear, it bogs, then goes, seems like too much fuel, right??? How easy is it to re-jet a motorcraft carb?

 

[Sweet-85']

Good news!! Played around with the carb some more, it now idles just fine and no bogging! Success! I have to start it with a screw driver though, because I cannot get the bolts/screws off the steering column that hold the rest of the old ignition switch in. They look like they were once 4mm or 5/32 heads but are rounded now, honestly I don't know. Has anyone replaced one before and run into this problem? Thanks for all the help by the way guys, I really appreciate it!

 

[bronco2fan]

No, I've never replaced my ignition switch. You have a Chilton or Haynes manual? There's always Goggle too, sure it's on there somewhere or the search function here in electrics. Hopefully someone else can chime in and give you some info. Good luck and you're welcome.

 

[ratdude747]

Good news!! Played around with the carb some more, it now idles just fine and no bogging! Success! I have to start it with a screw driver though, because I cannot get the bolts/screws off the steering column that hold the rest of the old ignition switch in. They look like they were once 4mm or 5/32 heads but are rounded now, honestly I don't know. Has anyone replaced one before and run into this problem? Thanks for all the help by the way guys, I really appreciate it!

Two possibilities:

1. They might be "snap-off" security bolts like I encountered when doing a similar job on my mom's 1997 Nissan Quest (which was half-ford, BTW). Such fasteners have special heads that snap off when torqued during installation. Removal requires drilling; you drill the heads a bit and use a bolt extractor to remove.They're intentionally made that way as a means of theft prevention.

2. They could be big rivets. Ford loves to rivet everything.