84 Bronco II 2.8 to 302 swap...

[Nightbreed]

I currently have a 84 Bronco II with the 2.8 and a 5 speed out of an 85 Ranger...it started life as an auto but when the auto died I converted her over with help from a few friends
I'm wanting to do a v8 conversion as cheaply as possible and prefer a 5speed...but cost decides everything
What would be the best donor vehicles and parts from them to use for this project? I live in East TN so junkyards are full of options here.
I've recently joined and know there are other threads but none seem specific to my particular conversion...and I'm hoping to upgrade other parts (suspension, axles, brakes, etc) using my chosen donor(s) if possible
If ya need specifics just ask...

 

[PetesPonies]

I'm about to put a V8 in my '84 BII. However, mine had a C5 and I'm keeping that. See my thread "1000 words".

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

For the engine the newer the better, trans & t case from a F-150, axles from an Explorer.

Duraspark would be the cheapest/easiest for ignition if you go carbed. If your 2.8 is going to be on the road for awhile and you have an extra $100 to blow on dizzy parts duraspark it. It will help it and when you drop the new engine in it, it is plug and play.

 

[fangotango306]

hei ford distributor is $50 on ebay.....hook up one wire and go, no box nothing.

 

[PetesPonies]

Doesn't cost $100 to run a Duraspark unless you are counting the carburetor which needs to be changed as well. I picked up a new Duraspark distributor for $40 and used a HEI module which is about $18 or so. By the way, when my 2.8 comes out, I have some relatively new ( 2K miles ) parts available if anyone needs something. My damn 2.8 only has 58K on it . . but took a dump. New timing gears ( metal ) Duraspark distributor, heads have new seals etc.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Doesn't cost $100 to run a Duraspark unless you are counting the carburetor which needs to be changed as well. I picked up a new Duraspark distributor for $40 and used a HEI module which is about $18 or so. By the way, when my 2.8 comes out, I have some relatively new ( 2K miles ) parts available if anyone needs something. My damn 2.8 only has 58K on it . . but took a dump. New timing gears ( metal ) Duraspark distributor, heads have new seals etc.

Dizzy might be about $50, but the collar, cap and rotor are not free. I reused the original coil and JY box and pigtail... so that was about it for the ignition part of the swap.

 

[rednine4]

if you look at my build.. "in like a lamb out like a lion" you should see my 85 BII and alot of pics of what to do (i plan to post more soon). there are also many posts out there if you search on a particular part you may have a question about.

after doing it i can say the main obstacles I encountered were clearance to the fire wall, and just rounding up all the parts to try to do the swap in one months time between working and other hobbies time was scarce.....


I think all the other issues that a manual trans will create will be fairly simple to solve or of equal difficulty to swapping a v8 and and auto. I have swapped a v8 into a ranger with a t-5 and it was piece of cake.. just have to fab up a slave cylinder... no biggie

 

[PetesPonies]

Explain to me why you would need a new cap and rotor?? The point being . . you do not. I guess you are a bit ignorant of the first Duraspark ignitions and the fact that they did not have a large cap. That came later. I know you can't see the distributor in this picture, but the stock cap is hidden behind the air cleaner, but the distributor is all Duraspark.

. . and by the way, here is where my HEI module is hidden

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Explain to me why you would need a new cap and rotor?? The point being . . you do not. I guess you are a bit ignorant of the first Duraspark ignitions and the fact that they did not have a large cap. That came later. I know you can't see the distributor in this picture, but the stock cap is hidden behind the air cleaner, but the distributor is all Duraspark.

. . and by the way, here is where my HEI module is hidden

Yea the reason it is recommended to use the adaptor cap and rotor is because you get less or no cross firing in the distributor cap giving you a crisper spark at the plugs. With the adaptor and the larger cap it is still all duraspark just better you should still have room behind the air filter for the larger cap. Just a option you have there.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea the reason it is recommended to use the adaptor cap and rotor is because you get less or no cross firing in the distributor cap giving you a crisper spark at the plugs. With the adaptor and the larger cap it is still all duraspark just better you should still have room behind the air filter for the larger cap. Just a option you have there.

Plus I noticed you have the short spacer between the 2150 carb and the egr spacer. I found the felpro carb spacer # 60529 is the same thickness as the stock spacer that came on the engine and will plug the vacuum leak that will develop over time where the throttle position sensor used to be. It comes with gaskets on the spacer but they are pretty hard you will probably need a regular carb gasket added between the new spacer and the carb and snug the carb down slow and even and gives the throttle cable a better angle also. Just something to keep in mind I can tell by how long the threads are on the carb studs. Been there done that with the phenolic spacer it worked ok for a while then developed a vacuum leak and I got lucky at the part store the guy brought out a spacer for a 302 # 60529 for $18 that still works great.

 

[PetesPonies]

Well of course I know the textbook answer ( I was an automotive teacher for many years, I know about textbook answrs for the larger distributor cap. Thats not my point, the point is Ford used it this way for a few years. Its really not a big problem until the voltage jumped higher. That is what I was addressing, it isn't needed. As for the spacer, I probably have a SB spacer on there since that is what the carb is from. Remember, this is my engine I'm pulling in a couple weeks because of an internal issue.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Explain to me why you would need a new cap and rotor?? The point being . . you do not. I guess you are a bit ignorant of the first Duraspark ignitions and the fact that they did not have a large cap. That came later. I know you can't see the distributor in this picture, but the stock cap is hidden behind the air cleaner, but the distributor is all Duraspark.

Because they are a common wear item... and while I am there upgrading my ignition the large cap is a superior setup.

You would change distributors and stick the old cruddy cap back on? I did my DS swap to make it run better, not to change parts at random for the heck of it.

The cap and rotor is probably about the same price between the two designs, the only extra $$ is the adaptor and they are like $10... bit whoop.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Well of course I know the textbook answer ( I was an automotive teacher for many years, I know about textbook answrs for the larger distributor cap. Thats not my point, the point is Ford used it this way for a few years. Its really not a big problem until the voltage jumped higher. That is what I was addressing, it isn't needed. As for the spacer, I probably have a SB spacer on there since that is what the carb is from. Remember, this is my engine I'm pulling in a couple weeks because of an internal issue.

TFI coil or coil that runs on battery voltage equals higher voltage oh but of course you knew that. You would think being a teacher the rebuild would have lasted a little bit longer with all your knowledge wrapped into it.

 

[fordpwr89]

i put a 5.0 HO in my ranger and it was farily simple. there were a few times i was standing there scratching my head but it all worked out. i went with HEI dist easiest way to go. motor mounts from 86 lincoln cont. 5.0 weiand intake holley carb and lots lots more goodies

 

[PetesPonies]

You guys are so smart assed that is. Anyway . . the point was that a larger cap wasn't NEEDED, it could be run with the small cap. bvecause most of you are not old enough to have been around when Durasprak first came out, I pointed it out for you. I'm careful to say what is really needed and what could or should be replaced.

the rebuild would have lasted a little bit longer with all your knowledge wrapped into it

this doesn't even make sense . . too funny.