83 ranger need help fast

[83rangerdanger]

The number one post on my distributor is not facing the radiator it is facing the driver quarter panel (wheel well) how do i correct this

 

[Big Jim M]

Why correct it? If the thing is running correctly LEAVE IT ALONE! Or, have you already messed with it and it is running poorly?
Big Jim

 

[83rangerdanger]

It doesent have any power when i excellarate and if there is any kind of incline u may as well get out and push

 

[RonD]

Yes, to what Big Jim said.


Computer doesn't care, engine doesn't care, distributor doesn't care, so..................

The #1 spark plug wire needs to be where the Rotor is pointed when #1 cylinder is starting power stroke, and that's all that matters.

If you want to change it then rotate engine manually until Rotor is pointing at current #1 wire position, you should see Crank pulley lined up with TDC mark at 0deg approx. now.
Pull out distributor and turn rotor to where you want it to point for #1, put it back in, rotor may turn when it goes back in so account for that turn when setting it, get it to where you want it.
Now rewire the cap, start with #1 wire where rotor is pointed now, then follow the firing order CLOCKWISE around the cap, so 1 - 3 - 4 - 2
3 4
1 2

You will need to fine tune the spark using a timing light, with SPOUT disconnected.


EDIT:

It doesent have any power when i excellarate and if there is any kind of incline u may as well get out and push

Then just get a timing light and check the spark timing, with SPOUT disconnected.

Also do a compression test, and use a vacuum gauge to check engine condition.
Could need a new timing belt, if it is stretched a bit compression goes down(so does vacuum) and so power goes down as well.

 

[Mark_88]

Here is what I do/did...pull the number one plug and put your thumb over the hole while cranking the engine manually...when you feel compression on your thumb (an upward pressure that would lift your thumb off the hole if strong enough) and then slowly bring the piston to the top of the cylinder (you need a flashlight to look in the hole).

This puts your number one cylinder in the firing position.

Now, put the cap on the distributor if off and note where the #1 wire goes on the cap...mark the distributor, take a picture, or somehow remember where that is in relation to the body of the distributor below the cap. It should actually point to the driver side fender...

Pull the cap on the distributor and see where the rotor is pointing. It should point to where the number one wire on the cap was in the EXACT same direction...

If not, pull the distributor and note when you do this how much the rotor moves...it should move clockwise as you remove it...that's ok...but remember that it will rotate that much as it meshes with the gear that drives it...so you may need to insert and remove the distributor several times to get it right...tighten it down but not too tight.

Once that is done note the cam timing position...it should point to the middle finger on the timing marker if you have one...otherwise it should point roughly to five o'clock if you were looking at an analog clock (or whatever the old ones were called with the actual arms...)

Once that is all lined up...you should have your base settings for timing...now you can use the timing light and make sure to remove the vacuum as I'm assuming this is carbureted and not FI...if FI then you should have the spout connector...

Apparently the base timing should be 6* Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) with the vacuum line off...you can now adjust it slightly for idle by rotating the distributor...but you should not need to move it more than a few degrees...and usually counter clockwise as this increases idle (usually)...

Once you have all that done you can put the vac line on and test drive it...if not quite right you may need to adjust it by rotating a bit more and adjust the idle down with the carb adjustments as needed...

If this gives you the same result...do a compression test as suggested above...

 

[Big Jim M]

Jesus! You guys are simply getting him into deeper water. His problem is the engine is running out of power. So we should be asking him questions to trouble shoot possible problems. Not instructing him to undo what is already working.
Is there a catalytic converter on the vehicle?
Does the engine jump around and miss while losing power?
Does the vehicle have oversize tires installed recently?
Does the tail pipe whistle at higher rpm?
Does it run well at high rpm?
Questions that might help in troubleshooting the real problem.
Big Jim

 

[83rangerdanger]

There is no cat, and it stumbles when put in gear,no whistle,stock tires it runs strong above 1500 rpm in park and neutral but any type of load and it runs like crap and everything timing wise is good brand new motor with great compression

 

[Mark_88]

Jesus! You guys are simply getting him into deeper water.Big Jim

Well, you may be right...but my experience with someone posting with almost no other information is to either probe like you just did or to suggest that the one basic thing that affects most engines (like mine doing the same thing because the timing/carb wasn't set up correctly)...the timing.

The words "under load" rang out here also...going up a hill with no power...loosing power...

So, now we know it is apparently timed properly (which I'd check just to make sure)...but all the other answers rule out modifications that may also affect it in the manner you'd suspected...

So...Jesus' name has been evoked...and he still has a problem...this spirit needs deeper prayer and maybe a bit of holy water.

A new motor with good compression should not bog down...unless there is something wrong with what makes the engine go better...spark, fuel, air...but I'd go over the timing once more just to make sure it's not out by a tooth or three and that it's set up without the vacuum advance affecting timing...

Another unknown is the fueling method...is this carb or efi? Did you check fuel pressure...is the carb set up (assumption) properly...is it a one or two bbl? Did you install fuel injection from a later model...and, finally...

Did this ever run properly or have you just recently installed a new/rebuilt engine?

 

[83rangerdanger]

The motor ran fine for 500 miles it has a brand new one barrel carb from rock auto time marks are all lined up on compression stroke i can post a pic tomorrow it just won't move motor runs starts fine this may be a stupid question but i gotta ask could it have anything to do with the transmission or torque convertor

 

[Mark_88]

No question is stupid...if you're fairly inexperienced it's how you learn...

You have a manual transmission or automatic? Manuals don't have torque converters...and anybody that puts an automatic behind a 2.3 with a carb is either a sadist or a masochist...or both!

They usually came with a 4 speed manual transmission...but if automatic then it could have something to do with the torque converter...

How steep are the hills that bog it down?

One thing I will add to all this...the 4 bangers are known for slowing down on hills...I had to down shift from 4th to 3rd many times...forget the overdrive 5th gear most of the time too.

They just don't make enough power in stock configuration...especially if you are used to a nice V8 or a well configured v6...

There was another guy on here recently with similar configurations...maybe it's you...but his problem was rough idle with the carter yf (I think) one bbl carb.

 

[83rangerdanger]

It has the stock c3 automatic the motor has a mild cam and rollors you have posted on one of my threads b4. Issues with vacuum and timing the reason i brought up tje tranny is because i dont know what else to do it barely moves on level groundout it doesent have any funky sounds besides the clunk when u put it in gear

 

[Mark_88]

Can you hear the engine revving higher than it should for the speed you are going? A tach would be ideal for determining if the transmission is slipping...it would be like watching the speedometer while driving on ice...way higher indications on the rpms though.

I recognized the name but couldn't remember if I'd replied to your previous posts...getting old...you've only got 18 posts so I should remember!

 

[83rangerdanger]

I have a tack installed and it doesent over rev its almost like i have a huge trailer hooked up and can only reach 5 miles a hour unless im going down hill i live in oregon so we have alot of them but in park it revs up fine and idles fine i was doing some research on torque converters cuz i have a c4 with a 2.3 bell but the torque is from a strait six Fairmont that came with c4 but i was saving it for emergencies

 

[Mark_88]

I'd have to say that my experience with auto transmissions is limited...I do know when they slip you can usually tell it is slipping...torque converters and all that are beyond my experience/knowledge...

Your symptoms sound more like an engine issue but I'd also need to know if it was performing in similar situations prior to the engine swap...if it was then it could just be the conditions you are driving under...but a rebuilt engine with a mild cam and rollers and good compression is usually a bit peppier and better than a stock 2.3...

Only thing on that would be...upgrade to a 2bbl carb and intake...it will boost the fuel level and increase power...but also increase fuel consumption...running it up and down hills would almost demand a fuel injected v6...

I see your other ride is a 5.0...does this give you the same effect? If it's running properly, that is...

 

[83rangerdanger]

It b4 swap it was a 3 cylinder lol and still made it up rainier hill then i installed fresh motor ran great for 500 miles then i was headed back up said hill and it slowed to a stop it was fine then all of a sudden its worse the b4 the swap ive replaced the carb, plugs ,wires, dist. Cap ,timing belt, tensioner