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80's Ranger 4x4 for the Trails


Exactly



Most of the time, ignore the neutral position for the transfer case. It could be handy if you get the front and rear bound up against each other, to relieve tension. But most of the time, ignore it. Use your transmission as normal.

With an open differential, it is OK to leave the hubs locked for normal driving.

So my truck has an open differential?
And when at a stop in order to shift into 4L, should put it in Neutral with the steering column shifter? Or should it not really matter if it’s in D or N?
 
Yes, all 4x4s have a open front differential unless modified
Some have limited slip rear differentials

Shift to Neutral or Park, and yes, need to be STOPPED to shift to 4low
 
Ok great. And what speeds/conditions are ok in 4L?
Thanks for answering this stuff. With all the resources for service info, it’s actually tough to find a basic owners manual of the 83-92 rangers.
 
Shift into 4low and you will KNOW what speed is OK, lol
Just do it and you will immediately see what I mean

4low is for "crawling"
 
Got it! So 4H for pretty much anything I’ll be wanting 4x4 around town and basic off road , and maybe 4L for the occasional snow stuck situation and for slowly climbing up or down rough trails.
And just to ask this age old question one more time.. never use 4H/4L on dry paved roads, correct? Is that because the two axles will be forced to compete with each other ?

Also does my truck have a rear limited slip?
 
Look at the axle tag to find out if it is limited slip, or failing that, might have to have someone decode the VIN number, possibly.

Gear ratio and the letter "L" will indicate limited slip, ie. 3L55 is a 3.55 rear end with a trak-lock limited slip, best I recall.
 
For snow and ice you don't want 4l, it has too much torque so you can break traction easier

4h is fine, you actually want to start off in 2nd gear not 1st in snow and ice, but I don't think you have that option in Ranger automatics
You can try shifting to 2 instead of D now and see if its starts out in 2nd but it would probably start out in 1st

Yes, you want 2WD on dry pavement

In either 4h or 4l the steering will "feel funny" because tires are pulling the vehicle now, so on a turn you will feel that

AWD(all wheel drive) is quite different than 4WD, just FYI
AWD only sends "some" power to front axle, usually 30/70 split, and no 4low, and it uses a fluid coupler between the front and rear drive shafts, so they are never locked together
4WD does even power split, 50/50 or 100/100, lol, it has a direct chain drive between front and rear driveshafts, so you will feel that in the steering
 
Great thanks guys!
So, again, and mostly for the record, it's designed to be able to switch between 2H and 4H on the fly.. as in, with the automatic steering column shifter still in D on the move, correct? At reasonable speeds, i mean.
I'll not try that at all first. First I'll just try putting it in 4H while in Park or Neutral and see how it goes. I recall testing it very briefly in the fall and having success but also having a couple grinds. All while in a standstill in Park or Neutral, i just can't remember specifically. But it did go in at some point. But overall i want to be careful in case there's anything wrong with 4x4 and switching on the fly causes some catastrophic failure of something.
For the time being i will check the rear gear ratio tag and see if it has an L. I recall finding the tag before and don't recall there being an L but I'll double check. If there's not, I may just go ahead and put both front wheels hubs in the Lock position for a few weeks so i can randomly test 4x4 on some dirt or gravel around town.
I also want to make sure all lubrication regarding 4x4 is ok. I had to add a bunch of fluid to the rear diff, and will also need to open it up and reseal it soon since there's a minor leak. I should check the front as well, and anything else regarding 4x4.
 
Even if your truck started out as a limited slip, the clutches are long gone by now, FYI. If you are going to pull the diff cover to change the oil in it, then you can verify one way or the other, and rebuild clutch packs if need be.
 
Low range with an automatic always seemed kind of awkward to me, I rarely used it.

Now with a manual I pop it in low range to back it in the garage...

Check out the u-joints in your front axle while you are there too.
 
Took it for a spin up some dirt trails with pretty steep inclines. Got out and locked the hubs and kept tooling around on the trail switching between 2H and 4H. The truck was already handling well enough in 2H since the ground is very dry so it was hard to really be certain the 4H was truly engaging but all signs point to yes. The 4x4 dash indicator lights up and the truck does maybe seem more gripped into the ground. Also, there’s a small rattling sound coming from the front end when the hubs are locked and the vehicle is moving. In both 2H and 4H. Sounds like it’s something spinning. Is that just how it goes or is this maybe an issue with the front locking hubs situation? It never sounded too aggressive or damaging, but maybe it is something about to go wrong.
 
Did you "feel" a difference when turning, like going around a 90deg turn?

You will if 4WD is working

Because its a OPEN front axle if one hub is not Locking then there is no 4WD, the unLocked axle gets ALL the power from front drive shaft, so not even 3WD, lol
 
Did you "feel" a difference when turning, like going around a 90deg turn?

You will if 4WD is working

Because its a OPEN front axle if one hub is not Locking then there is no 4WD, the unLocked axle gets ALL the power from front drive shaft, so not even 3WD, lol
Agreed you should feel it, but to add, if you still can't tell for sure, try checking the turn radius. starting from the same spot, go full lock turn at a nice slow speed(like no throttle for your auto). shift the transfer case and repeat from the same position. should be measurably wider in 4wd
 
You will definitely feel it, with my BII there was a LOT of feedback in the steering wheel, plus the turning radius went way up. No mistaking it.
 
Any way to hand check that both hubs are locking while working on truck in driveway?
 

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