8.8 Rebuild & Swap

[Aoresteen]

My project is a 1990 Ranger Super Cab 2WD 2.9L auto A4LD. I am doing the rear end swap for an 8.8" with 10" brakes as my truck came with a 7.5" with 3.45 (axle code 84). On Friday I finally found one at a wrecking yard after looking at 3 other yards in the area. No 8.8's to be found in '89,'90, '91, or '92 versions.

I don't want to use an 8.8" from a Bronco or other vehicle as that would involve welding perches on. A 2nd gen Ranger 8.8 will bolt right in..

The yard gave me the VIN for the truck that the 8.8 came from. It was from a 1991 2WD Super Cab 4.0L and has 3.08 gears and 10" brakes. I pulled the CarFax on it and it was junked in Feb 2010 so it's been sitting for over 5 years rusting away.

I had the yard remove the old way rusted drums. They really didn't want to but they did. It took 3 of them 15 minutes banging away before the rusted drums came free. No way would I have been able to do that. I tipped them an extra $20 for their efforts.

Here it is:

Left side rust:

Right Side rust:

Today I will strip off all the old brake parts. I ordered a set of RAYBESTOS 581PG Brake Shoes shoes for it from Summit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/agb-581pg

Based on this article a couple of weeks ago I ordered a set of new '94 Aerostar "finned"10" drums:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Brake_Upgrades.shtml

And this one led me to buy a G2 Aluminum cover:

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/1312-ford-axle-builder-s-guide/

After I clean the wheel studs up I will decide if I will replace them or not. I've popped one off already as the threads were damaged on them.

This week the rear end will go to the sandblaster to be stripped and painted. When I get it back I'll post some more photos.

The 3.08 gears have to go. In another thread here I've been advised to go with 3.55 or 3.73 gears. Right now I'm thinking 3.73.

Stay tuned.

 

[Aoresteen]

I made some more progress. First I supported the pinion end of the rear end with a 2x4 - held in place with a drywall screw and a fender washer. Keeps the rear end level on the jack stands:

I was able to get everything out. The bolts were 13mm head size. The parking cables were the only issue getting out and it took some time to free them. I put the left side parts in one box and the right side parts in another as I have a poor memory

Left side stripped:

Right side:

To keeps things straight I labeled the parts by side so I whould know where they went:

There's a line that goes to the top of the left side of the rear end:

The thread size is 7/16"-20 Fine thread. Does anyone know what this line is for? Is it part of the ABS system? I'll plug it for sandblasting.

Here's the ABS sensor hole on the top of the differential:

My plan is to seal it with a freeze plug 13/16ths inch during sandblasting & painting. Part is Dorman 555-013. If I don't needed it I will leave it plugged.

 

[adsm08]

That "mystery line" is the vent. It is there to allow the fluid and air in the axle to expand and contract without building pressure that could damage the housing.

 

[Aoresteen]

That "mystery line" is the vent. It is there to allow the fluid and air in the axle to expand and contract without building pressure that could damage the housing.

Thanks!

Where does it connect to? Does the 7.5" also have a vent? I'd just go look at mine but my Ranger is in the shop for a bed swap.

 

[BLOODBANE]

The vent tube usually goes up to the frame and is held on by a clip. Put a 1 way valve in the end to keep unwanted dirt/moisture from entering. A lot of people will extend those lines if they are running in wet conditions.

 

[adsm08]

I connects to nothing, like Bloodbane said, just gets hooked on the frame to keep it out of the way. A one-way valve shouldn't be needed in just regular street driving, and I would recommend against it because it will eventually pull a vacuum on the axle. The hose's normal shape is something like a question mark, with a loop at the top, so that dirt and water won't be able to easily get in. Pretty much all axles, including the 7.5 have them in one form or another. Most solid axles look like that, but a lot of newer ones have a little jiggle cap on top instead of a hose.

 

[Aoresteen]

Thanks! I'll make sure to install the vent line when the rear ends get swapped.

 

[Aoresteen]

The sandblasting and paint took much longer than quoted. I picked it up Tuesday and It looks good now with the new paint on it.

I dropped it off at Southern Gear Atlanta (Smyrna GA location). They called today and the axles are pitted and so I'm getting two new axles (ugh more $$) as a part for the full rebuild. Cost to rebuild, parts, & install the 3.73 gears is $850.

More to follow.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Sorry to say, but if your 7.5" shafts were good, they could have used them in the 8.8... but luckily $850 is pretty good for gears, shafts and labor! actually really good...

 

[Mac]

I think those shoes you ordered are the wrong size also, should be 2 1/2" instead of the 2 1/4" Summit lists.
Dave

 

[Aoresteen]

I think those shoes you ordered are the wrong size also, should be 2 1/2" instead of the 2 1/4" Summit lists.
Dave

Raybestos lists the 581PG (Professional Grade) as compatible with the 1991 Ranger 8.8 10" drums:

http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magn....html?searchCategory=Automotive / Light Truck

The PG line is their top shoe. I spoke with their tech support and they said that there is no issue with the 2.25" width vs 2.5" width. They are being installed right now. If the shop has any issues they will let me know.

 

[Aoresteen]

Sorry to say, but if your 7.5" shafts were good, they could have used them in the 8.8... but luckily $850 is pretty good for gears, shafts and labor! actually really good...

Thanks. There was no way I could have used the 7.5" shafts anyway as I had to keep the truck rolling. I am happy to have new axles as now I know it will last a long time as everything is new.

 

[Aoresteen]

Last week the 8.8" rear end was installed and a brake problem was discovered. When they tried to bleed the rear brakes they got no brake fluid at the rear wheel cylinders. The brake proportioning valve was not working so it is being rebuilt. That means that I have been driving the truck with no rear brakes - scary. I should get the truck back by Thursday.

 

[84FreakRanger]

The sandblasting and paint took much longer than quoted. I picked it up Tuesday and It looks good now with the new paint on it.

I dropped it off at Southern Gear Atlanta (Smyrna GA location). They called today and the axles are pitted and so I'm getting two new axles (ugh more $$) as a part for the full rebuild. Cost to rebuild, parts, & install the 3.73 gears is $850.

More to follow.

I found this website for 8.8 rear ends http://www.carmonkeys.com/1984-FORD...paign=google&gclid=CJq85fma4ccCFdgNgQodNWwA5w for $749