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8.8 rebuild specs


MAranger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2008
Messages
350
City
Ipswich, MA
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Hi all I have a few questions on setting up an 8.8.

- Does the pinion crush sleeve go beneath or on top of the outer pinion bearing and race?

- What is the in.lb torque spec for pinion preload?

Thanks
 
Go to yukongear.com and click on install. That should give you everything you need. The crush sleeve go between the bearings.
 
Thnks, the yukon site has 'em :icon_thumby:. I found a shim under the inner pinion bearing on the old gear set, none under the carrier bearings. There are two "spacers" outside the carrier bearings measuring 0.260" RGS and 0.280" NRGS. The pinion shim was .018". This was out of a ranger 8.8 with stripped spiders, I'm salvaging the inner pinion bearing to make a set-up bearing for shim changes, and the 3.73 gears.

I just got my hands on an explorer 8.8 with discs and 3.55's open. I have 4.56's and a master install kit to go in it, and will be getting a lock-right or similar when funds allow it. I'm going to set-up the gears myself, i'll replicate the stock pinion depth and backlash/carrier preload with new shims, and setup bearings. I may end up buying a solid pinion spacer rather than using the crush sleeve, as I bet I'll be doing at least a couple shim changes.

If I wind up crushing the sleeve too far with a shallow pinion depth, would it be acceptable to put shim(s) on top of the sleeve to get the 14-19 in.lbs of pinion preload I need?

Anybody know of an affordable companion flange holder? On the ranger it required prybars through the wheel studs and two guys' help to get the damn thing held down and the nut off. I got lucky and the explorer's was already loose, hope nothings wrong inside.

On a side note, how do you TRSer's feel about ditching the c-clips and having the discs hold the axles in in the event I break one? suppose I need spares......
 
The crush sleeve should not go in until after you've found your correct pinion depth shims (just lightly tighten the nut (use the old one) to establish a preload on the pinion bearings while checking your tooth contact). Once that's done, then you install the sleeve and tighten 'er up for what should be the final time using the new pinion nut provided in the install kit.
For a flange holder, I used a piece of 3/16 angle I had laying around, about 4' long and drilled it so I could attach it straight to the flange. Worked great.

Not sure your question about c-clips, you can't "ditch" them unless you use a conversion kit of some sort specifically designed to do away with them (frankly I wouldn't be worrying much about busted axles on a 31-spline 8.8 anyway, it does not seem to be a very frequent occurrence on this axle).


Lastly, Yukon does have a nicely-written gear installation guide that covers all the basics, though some of their specs for Ford axles are wrong. Be sure to use the specs (backlash, bolt torque, preload, etc.) from within the Tech Library here, they came straight from the same factory service manuals that the Ford dealers use.
 
Don't install the crush sleeve until everything else is setup in spec (Pinion depth, backlash, ect).

EDIT: Junkie beat me.
 
Thanks for clearing the c-clip thing up. I don't wanna drop the coin on elims, I tihnk your right that breakage shouldn't be an often event, I'm planning on running 33's or 35's.
 
Yeah no problem at all, you should be fine there.

Good luck with it. :icon_thumby:
 
Thanks Junkie. I'm debating whether to go ahead and regear with the open carrier and save up to toss $300 down on a lock rite, or drop a 31 spl trac lock in it for $150. Truck will see regular street use, so I am leaning towards the trac lock, but then again a limited slip will never be a locker once i get a tire in the air.
 
You said it best yourself. A trac-lok will NEVER be a locker. I had a trak lok. I then regeared, found an open carrier, and stuffed a lockright in it. I daily drive mine, and beat on it HARD off-road. Totally different ball game off road with the locker. Never had a problem on or off road with mine. Believe me, you will thank me later.
 
i'm gonna save for a lock rite. Took the truck out wheelin today. Want lockers and MT's. Bad.

Got the ex 8.8 tore down, shafts and gears out. Got all my shims measured to know my baseline for my regear. Spent about an hour trying to make a set up inner pinion bearing by sanding it. Went nowhere fast. I'll try to get some pics up. Need to make myself a flange holder too.
 
Made alot of good prgress today. Started by making set up pinion bearings. I removed the old inner pinion bearing with a bearing seperator. I took my dremel tool with a griding stone and ground the inside of both the inner and outer pinion bearing until they could be install and removed by hand. This way i could change the shim that sets my pinion depth without pressing the new bearing on or off.

I moved on to removing the pinion bearing races from the housing, using a punch and hammer. Installed the new races using the old race and a block of wood, driving them home with a 2lb hammer (BFH).

I removed the old carrier bearings by first cutting the cage annd removing it and the rollers to expose the "collar" part fo the bearing. Those were removed easily by heating them with my propane torch, and using a two jaw puller. Installed the new ones using one of the "collars" to drive it on with a wood block and BFH.

I removed the old ring gear by backing all the bolts out halfway and hitting the bolt heads with the BFH, came off without a fuss. The new ring was set onto the carrier, and with some heat and persuasion from the BFH went on. Loctite all the bolts and torqued them to 60 ft.lbs per my motive gear instructions.

Cleaned eveything, took my new pinion gear and set on a new shim of the same thickness as came from the factory (in my case .030"). Slid the set-up inner pinion bearing into place, put the pinion into the housing, outer pin bearing in, companion flang, and nut, tightened to maybe 50ft.lbs. Enough to get an accurate pinion depth.

I moved onto installing the carrier with the new ring gear on it. I tried using the stock shims first. Installed carrier and caps, torqued to 70 ft.lbs (middle of the road between yukon's 60ft.lb and motive's 80ft.lb figure). Marked three teeth on the ring gear with compound, in two spots and ran a pattern.

This is the only pic i got from today, really shoulda taken pictures and done a real write up. This set has :
.030" pinion shim
.276" NRGS shim
.276" RGS shim
.000 backlash

pattern2.jpg





Pattern looks so-so to me. the pinion depth looks pretty good, centered on the face of the tooth. The pattern does fall on the "heel" of the ring gear, but from what I've read this is acceptable. However, the stock shims produced ZERO backlash. Yukon gear recomends .003-.006" backlash for new bearings.

So, out comes the carrier again. I broke out my new shims from my master install kit. Per Yukon's instructions, changing the carrier shims (adding from one side, subtracting from the other) by .010" results in +/-.007" backlash. I added 10 thous to the side away from the ring gear (NRGS), and subtracted 10 thous from the ring gear side (RGS). so, my specs were:
.030" pinion shim
.286" NRGS
.266" RGS
.002" backlash

Reinstalled and torqued, backlash measured .001" under yukons recommened minimum. I decided to change shims again and get myself into specs. Added
.004" NRGS, kept RGS the same, as i didn't have much carrier preload before. Ran a pattern, measured backlash .006" :yahoo:

I'll snap a pic of my current pattern tomorrow. How do you guys feel about my pattern? Is there strong demand for a full write up?
 
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If you can, move the pinion away 10-15 thou and try it again. I would run that, but it would be nice to have it centered on the tooth toe to heel.
 
It won't be a big deal to change the pinion shim, it's all coming apart again away. I've had the carrier out four times today, whats another couple times gonna hurt haha. Didn't know that moving the pinion out would bring the pattern towards the toe. Will that ruin my pinion depth? I'll have to set backlash again too, huh?
 
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Taking shims out of the pinion will move the pattern towards the toe....you kinda have to think of how the ring gear and pinion mesh as backwards to how you are looking at your pattern paint.

Yes, changing pinion depth will probably require a change in backlash as well.
 
I'll give it another shot with 10 thou more behind the pinion tomorrow. You're right, it would be nice to have it centered heel to toe. Just took a look at the gears and I see how it will center it.

Also, forgot to mention that my cross pin hits the teeth of the ring gear. How do y'all feel about grinding on the heel of one tooth? I'd rather not drop the cash on a notched pin.
 

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