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5R55E - DIY Rebuild?


Pquin56

Member
Joined
May 31, 2025
Messages
13
City
Georgia
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Automatic
I asked this question in my original post, but it was suggested I start a new thread here in the Transmission forum.

History:
I bought a 2000 4.0 OHV extended cab 4x4 as a project truck. The truck sat for three years with 4 flat tires and the belly of the truck was essentially on the ground. The engine runs, but needs some work but the body is in great shape so I know I have a good bones to work with. Things I've already done:
Drained and refilled the transfer case which sounds like it it's shifting correctly.
New bearings and seals in the rear diff because of a bad axle seal and water intrusion.
Dropped the transmission pan and found burnt oil and a LOT of metal dust in the pan. No large metal.

The problem is, there is no torque going to the wheels. In the air, the wheels spin in gear, but they don't seem to speed up consistent with an increase in throttle. Once the tires are on the ground, the driveshaft "moves" but won't turn. This is in all gears.

I'd like to rebuild the transmission myself, but I have zero experience with transmissions. I've watched a LOT of youtube videos on the 5R55E tear down and rebuild and it looks doable as long as I take my time. I did order the ATSG for the 5R55e.

Is there anyone here that has rebuilt a transmission with no experience that can give me some input, guidance, tips, etc?

Should I tear the transmission apart first before I order a rebuild kit....or should I go ahead and order a master kit with new bands?

This is a project truck so time isn't really a factor.
 
read the manual a few times.

i am not tracking your description of driveshaft movement.


really you want to inspect the trans to see if it is worth rebuilding. you may need to scavenge a bunch of hard parts. no way to know until it is inspected.
 
read the manual a few times.

i am not tracking your description of driveshaft movement.


really you want to inspect the trans to see if it is worth rebuilding. you may need to scavenge a bunch of hard parts. no way to know until it is inspected.
under load, the driveshaft will make about a 1/4 turn, but doesn't have the torque behind it to actually turn the wheels.
 
I’d be tempted to try replacing the O-rings and gasket on the reverse servo and tighten the bands (2nd and 3rd are adjustable, 1st/reverse is controlled by the reverse servo which is accessible with the pan off), then see what happens.
 
I’d be tempted to try replacing the O-rings and gasket on the reverse servo and tighten the bands (2nd and 3rd are adjustable, 1st/reverse is controlled by the reverse servo which is accessible with the pan off), then see what happens.
I may give that shot. Does it make any difference that I've tried Reverse, Drive, 1st, and 2nd and got the same result each time?
 
I may give that shot. Does it make any difference that I've tried Reverse, Drive, 1st, and 2nd and got the same result each time?
Not really. Also, there is a purge procedure if you have the valve body or servo out which may also play into draining fluid. You shift into each gear and leave it in that gear holding the brakes for a minute twice through to try and purge air. Automatics don’t like to sit. You could have stuck valves in the valve body and/or torque converter problems. Hard to say.
 
does park work?
 
i would say the one way is toast with no forward or reverse....or not enough fluid. usually just the one way blowed low 123 still will move forward though...



 

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