5-speed question

[jppr26]

hey there all im new here and have a question about a 98 ranger 5-speed 4x4 trans. I know it is a M50D-R1, and im looking for a rebuild kit for it and can get one at the local auto parts store for around 250 bucks, but there is one on eBay for 170 bucks but it says its for a M5R1 trans, is there any difference between the two trannys or are they the same thing just differently described. The reason im looking into rebuilding it is because its hard shifting, pops out of 3rd only and is leaking from the front and rear seals, and im going to do the clutch while im at it. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[wizkid00104]

I bought the one on ebay. Just did the rebuild in march. The only difference is the reverse and 5th gear synchros. There were two different models made. When I ordered mine, I called the tranny place on ebay and they sold me the other two rear synchros for $10 each. I wound up returning the extra two at my cost for shipping. It was much handier to have both sets when I rebuilt so I wasn't caught with the wrong parts.

Check the local parts one for needle bearings. The ebay kit replaced all synchros and shaft bearings, but not each gear's needle bearings. All of mine were in tact, so it was no problem.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

[Snoranger]

Yes, They are the same thing. The M5od-r1 is very often called a M5R1

 

[jppr26]

sweet thanks for the advice fellas, is it fairly simple to do the tear down and assemble, from what i have seen i just need a long armed puller, which i can make.

 

[tx3nc]

sweet thanks for the advice fellas, is it fairly simple to do the tear down and assemble, from what i have seen i just need a long armed puller, which i can make.

To do the full teardown, you also need a hydraulic press. You could probably find a machine shop to press the bearings that you need off and press the new one on. Or Harbor Freight has one for around $200. I found it very handy to have one.

Teardown and reassembly is pretty straight forward. ORGANIZE, ORGANIZE, ORGANISE. Get yourself some ziplock bags and a sharpie to lable stuff as you take it apart. A few disposable plastic containers with lids are also handy.

If it's jumping out of gear, my guess is it's probably the shifter fork for that gear. Hard to shift or grinding can be caused by the shifter hubs not sliding freely on the shafts (parts 40, 41, and 43 here http://www.mackstrans.com/images/diagrams/M5R1-Diagram.jpg ). If you want to go for the cheapest, bare bones rebuild, inspect the brass blocking rings first, there should be a gap between the teeth on the blocking ring (parts 14, 14a, and 14b) and the gear itself. If there is no gap, then the brass blocking ring is worn out. If the blocking rings are ok, then disassemble the transmission and inspect the bearings. They are probably filled up with metal shavings. Clean them with brake fluid (use eye protection) and inspect for smooth operation. Any that are pitted and dont spin freely, replace. Plan on replacing the pocket bearing (number 4 in the diagram) regardless. It sees a lot of heat and I would not reuse one if I was that far in. Check that the shifter hubs are free on the shafts. If not, use some lapping compound and slide them on and off repeatedly until they move freely (another use for the press). Don't over-lap the hubs because you want them to slide front to back, not rock side to side. Make sure that the splash oiling passages to the front bearing and the pocket bearing are clear and then reassemble the transmission. Just use the shims that came in it back in the original locations.

While you have it out, I would replace the rubber plugs in the ends of the shifter rails. Common place for oil leakage. I replaced mine with brass plugs and then added a fitting with a hose and filter to vent the transmission.

Good luck.

 

[wizkid00104]

In place of a press, my uncle and I cut the outer bearing races with a air grinder. This took care of the out races and the rollers. Then we gently cut the inner race about half way or a little more. One hit with a hammer and a chisel in the cut popped the inner race right apart. Be very careful not to knock the shaft.

The press and puller we had didn't work on all the bearings which is why we did this.

When I get to work tomorrow, I found a photo gallery of the rebuild that can be very useful for reference.

Good luck!



Sent from my iPhone

 

[wizkid00104]

Here are the photos I found:

http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/doubler/Trans Teardown/