5.0 swap unforeseen issues.

[540milotalon]

I guess it might be mostly me, because if I get in a check out line in a store, it will, without a doubt become the longest line in the store including Wally World. So, I did not expect the swap to go perfect.

I bought the ‘96 2 wheel drive Ranger, no radiator and partially disassembled engine so there was always a bit of a difficulty. I have the engine trans and rear (from the ‘99 Explorer) in the frame, cab on and just found out the Explorer radiator does not fit the frame. Solution appears to be purchase of a 4.0 or 3.0 and then see how much room left for electric fans.

The hood will not close because the engine sits too high, the truck is 2 wheel drive and already has a 1” cab/bed lift. I am wondering if a newer
cowl or raised hood will fit this body style before I modify the hood?

Much bigger problem is the wiring harnesses. If the PCM connector to the firewall mounted PCM Is connected, the 42 pin connector for the “engine/frame” connection is too short or vise a versa. Only one works, and the solution seems to be cut and splice. But, which harness?

I kinda wish I had not started this particular swap.
Comments appreciated.

 

[Ramcharger90]

It sounds like you have the motor mounts in the wrong place. Show alot of pictures.

Do you have the engine harness from the exploder? It should only be 11 wires that need repined.

4.0 rad and explorer accessory brackets will be fine. Make sure the engine is as far back as possible.

 

[540milotalon]

Engine is as far back as possible. About 1/2" from plenum hitting firewall. Not sure what else I could do with mounts? I did jack the plates I made 1" higher, both sides to get the engine closer to level -side to side- and to add clearance at the oil pan - passenger "I" beam. Jacking the drivers side gave me much needed clearance on the remote oil filter adapter and steering box. The trans is also jacked up off the tranny cross member. Using plates, no washers for the jacking.

Even factoring in the engine being higher, the cab is higher so how is the PCM connector 3"-4" off when everything else connected?

I do have the Explorer with intact vehicle harness and the original Ranger engine/trans harness.

Will have to really study what I do next step!
I will try to find a 5 year old to help with pics.

Thanks

 

[Curious Hound]

Wow. I'm not an expert on that swap. But I think it would be wise to revisit the whole engine mount and transmission mount situation. What you did there is also going to affect your driveshaft alignment with the pinion flange at the rear differential. So pinion angle will need to be checked and possibly adjusted to minimize driveline vibrations. I have heard that sometimes a different oilpan is needed to clear the cross member. Not sure if this is one of those cases.

You might want to sit back for a few days and relax. Clear your head. Read a bunch of threads on here about others who have done this swap and how they overcame the issues you have. Then regroup and proceed.

 

[Ranger850]

+1^^^^^^^

 

[540milotalon]

OK, forgot to mention the rear is sitting with the 6* pinion angle the Explorer seemed to have, working outside on grass. I kept that in mind the entire time setting it up. The trans is only sitting on 3/4" shim plates to try to level up engine a little. I am looking for a drive shaft, the original Ranger shaft is the longer of the two, still short by 5". The 1987 F-150 I am driving, is one piece Aluminum. If I can find another one, will shorten it. First one I have located wanted $150. I will NOT think about paying $150 and then having to cut and reweld it.

Lowering engine appears will have zero affect on wire harness, the 42 pin harness is extended much further on the Explorer than the factory Ranger. A splice somewhere is needed OR switch the entire harness over?

I might, might consider the dual sump oil pan if I can find one.
I plan to use an electric fan on 4.0 radiator. The engine is way high to use fan shroud even if I Switch the engine plates back to the lower ones, the shroud won't be close to center, the clutch fan is too long.

I wish now, they had never messed with my medication, then switched it back........

 

[bobbywalter]

What oil pan?

Tib truck needs a fox pan, cut and inverted explorer pan or 2 in body lift and jacked mounts like you have.


Get a fox pan and use plates on 2.9 or 4.o mounts

 

[540milotalon]

I thought it looked good without using one but with everything where it is close to needing to be, looks like I figured wrong. Dual sump pan and pick up seems to be the best way to go, found a pan, not sure about pick up price, looks like about $125. total. By lowering the engine that 1” it might go back a little further? Not much, but maybe. If I drop the 1” on the driver side, it HAS to go back for the oil filter remote adapter to clear steering box.

 

[bobbywalter]

You make your own plate mounts and mod the 6 mounts down you will be about 3 inches lower ....from there the rest is CAKE

 

[540milotalon]

Bobby Walter, not sure I fully understand? I can make or mod the plates, but modify the V-6 mounts?

 

[bobbywalter]

If you do spring eye mounts you can use a lopro Canton and get about 6 inches lower..

This style can put you low.

 

[540milotalon]

This truck is 2 wheel drive with I beam. I ain't seeing that as possible even with a different oil pan.
I still haven't taken time to figure out how to load pics but do do you have pics of an install?

 

[bobbywalter]

Theres many here

 

[bobbywalter]

All-star performance sells the old school comet type mount for 15 each and plates for 30 ish.

With explorer pan. If you measure rail to k member from 90° should be close to 7 or even plus. With down mount and pan 4 in is doable before modding k and pan. It eliminates need for body lift and minimizes or mitigate HVAC issues.

 

[540milotalon]

My biggest fear is the passenger I beam crashing into the pan before it bottoms out on the rubber frame snubber. That part of the Fox body pan my cousin has does not look like it will do much for me but, a 1/2" here and there might be enough to do it.
I probably had enough room, but barely, to clear the steering box with the remote oil filter adapter on drivers side. Taking the extra 1" out will put me back to "barely."

Whether I drop the engine or not, (much needed) the spark plugs replacement looks very doable. It goes in with new plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets.

Thanks for the help. Engine comes back out this weekend.