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5.0 Swap Firewall Mods?


Jy81

Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2016
Messages
10
City
NC
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Automatic
First off, I have read the entire FAQ here on this site, but I still have unanswered questions.

I have a 96 Ranger XL with the 3.0/A4LD combo, and I'm gearing up to swap a 5.0 HO/AOD into my truck. I've read that the firewall and even floorpan needs sledgehammer modifications to make it fit. Where exactly will these bending "mods" need to be done, and why does the floorpan need to be bent? If the AOD is a direct swap?..

Also my heater box plenum isn't the same as the one in the FAQ. It sticks out into the engine bay further. Will I still be able to heat and bend this one to clear the valve cover? Or will I have to delete it entirely?

Thanks in advance for any helpful info.
 
There is a pinch weld where the floor and firewall meet. Sometimes this needs bent in for clearance. I used a C-6 (biggest bellhousing) and a 2" BL on my 84. It would have cleared, but I still beat the pinch weld over. You may or may not have to do this. As far as the plenum goes, I just cut a good notch out of mine and turned it upside down and glued it back in there, sealing it. How much you have to cut out will really depend on your application
DSC00371.jpg
 
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>>>>>

First off, I have read the entire FAQ here on this site, but I still have unanswered questions.
I have a 96 Ranger XL with the 3.0/A4LD combo, and I'm gearing up to swap a 5.0 HO/AOD into my truck. I've read that the firewall and even floorpan needs sledgehammer modifications to make it fit. Where exactly will these bending "mods" need to be done, and why does the floorpan need to be bent? If the AOD is a direct swap?..
Also my heater box plenum isn't the same as the one in the FAQ. It sticks out into the engine bay further. Will I still be able to heat and bend this one to clear the valve cover? Or will I have to delete it entirely?
Thanks in advance for any helpful info.
=======================
Bending the pinch weld over isn't that hard and if it wasn't necessary, no harm, no fowl.:icon_twisted:

As far as the heater box, do you have A/C? If you do:bawling:, then you'll have to do some modifying. If not:yahoo:, then the easiest thing to do would be to find a NON-A/C heater box from an 83-94 Ranger or Bronco II and notch the corner as shown above, as the 95-97's heater box is the same size with or without A/C.

Post pics of your progress..........
 
As far as the heater box, do you have A/C? If you do:bawling:, then you'll have to do some modifying. If not:yahoo:, then the easiest thing to do would be to find a NON-A/C heater box from an 83-94 Ranger or Bronco II and notch the corner as shown above, as the 95-97's heater box is the same size with or without A/C.

Pretty sure they not interchangeable with the older heater boxes, the firewall was changed too.
 
On my 1992, I hammered the pinch weld flat and also massaged the driver side of the tunnel with a 4 pound sledge. I have a 3" BL so I probably didn't have to do that and I also used the flat steel plate motor mounts which allowed me to place the engine so the original trans mount was used.My heat/AC box required cutting and patching--the heat gun method was a fail for me.

DSCN0783_zps3250ec9d.jpg


DSCN0795_zps07cb009e.jpg
 
So the consensus is that I might have to bend the pinch weld over depending on the AOD's bell housing size, but the floorpan won't have to be bent. I'm good with that, since the floorpan doesn't need bent. That was my one hang up on doing it. I'll wait until I install the motor and see if I need to bend the pinch weld back before I actually do it. I really don't like bending things on my rides, seems very hackish.

This ranger has ac and with the way it's plenum sticks out into the engine bay, it doesn't look like it's gonna work with it in there. I guess test fitting is the name of the game here. This is gonna be a stock 91 mustang 302 HO motor with EFI and the short valve covers so I guess I'll see if it fits.
 
Probably will have to doctor up the heater box but it should fit.
 
My 97 with a 5.0 with AOD has air conditioning , i bent the pinch weld with small sledgehammer but didn't have to modify heater/air conditioning box. I don't have a body lift either.
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I'm gonna be taking on the Swap this upcoming weekend. Nothing fancy, just saving my old and dying ranger from the crusher, by using a good engine and trans that I already had laying around here in my garage.
 
Also, for those who have done the Swap...I know we have small tight space engine bays to work with here...Where you able to stab the motor and transmission in through the engine bay as a unit? Or did you find it easier to install them separately? I ask because it seems like you might not have enough room to install and tighten all the transmission bell housing to motor bolts with it in the engine bay already.
 
I wasn't able to install the engine and trans as a unit With the big aod! Not too tough even though I have had to do the entire swap in the driveway! Sucks when the weather doesn't cooperate. Lol
 
Ummm.....

I wasn't able to install the engine and trans as a unit With the big aod! Not too tough even though I have had to do the entire swap in the driveway! Sucks when the weather doesn't cooperate. Lol
========================
Pics please........
 
I got it done over the weekend, and I was able to install them as a unit. Didn't need to bend anything metal on the body, had to heat and deform a small section of the heater box, but that wasn't a big deal. Definately a pretty easy and worthy upgrade over the 3.slow. She hauls ass now. When inspection time comes late next year, I simply buy a cheap beater pre-95 ranger, get it titled, registered, and inspected, and then swap the vins. No one is the wiser. :D
 

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