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5.0 Questions


Did you ever complete this project?

No. It got pushed to the back burner in favor of my 4.0 and getting a new engine in the BII.

In the last week I have pulled this back out and begun working on it in earnest, but I have run into some issues again.

1) I cannot find my valve covers.

2) I cannot find most of my hardware. That includes the cam cog bolt and the valve cover bolts.

3) I cannot figure out how to install this cam eccentric for the fuel pump.


Anyway, can anyone shed some light on the cam eccentric issue?


I had the rotating assembly together when I started this thread, today I got the heads on and the valve train together, then I had to stop because I was out of parts.
 
The end of the cam should have an offset boss for a pin, and a place for a bolt (3/8 thread IIRC) dead center. You need to use a pin long enough to come flush with the base of the eccentric. Then just bolt it in. You may want to use thread lock or a locking washer. I think my 85 GT used a lock washer.


EDIT: What water pump and FEAD are you using? Just factory serpentine? The timing chain cover is a critical choice here. If you are using a 5.0 FEAD, you want a cover for an 83-85 Mustang.

EDIT 2: I found this video that may help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmjB_dJj8x8

Or, you can bypass all of this and install a Mr. Gasket low pressure electric pump.


Posting from the Galaxy.
 
Last edited:
I did the Mr. Gasket low pressure pump and have no problems with it.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
The end of the cam should have an offset boss for a pin, and a place for a bolt (3/8 thread IIRC) dead center. You need to use a pin long enough to come flush with the base of the eccentric. Then just bolt it in. You may want to use thread lock or a locking washer. I think my 85 GT used a lock washer.


EDIT: What water pump and FEAD are you using? Just factory serpentine? The timing chain cover is a critical choice here. If you are using a 5.0 FEAD, you want a cover for an 83-85 Mustang.

EDIT 2: I found this video that may help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmjB_dJj8x8

Or, you can bypass all of this and install a Mr. Gasket low pressure electric pump.


Posting from the Galaxy.

I did find that video about 12 hours before you posted it Shane, but it was right before I went to bed. The pin is what I could not figure out, and now it seems nobody makes or carries them anymore. Not that I can find anyway.

I was planning to use the sper setup because that is what I have parts for. I am not sure which front cover I have, but I laid it down next to the original one and the only differences I can see are the port for the mechanical fuel pump, and no recess for the locating dowel at the bottom.

I did the Mr. Gasket low pressure pump and have no problems with it.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

I just don't want to have to mess with an electric pump. I already have to rewire most of the car.
 
Alrighty. Dad and I hit up the Spring Carlisle swap meet today and went shopping.

We got the intake, we got a water neck, we found a C4/302 bell housing, and we got an ignition system.

The ignition system I am freakin' excited about. $105 we got everything, pre-loaded, and ready to go. Found a guy selling a kit to converter pretty much any engine you can think of to electronic ignition. It's a dis, cap, coil, pickup setup, like the GM HEI system. Best part, I have to hook up one wire.

Next question I have about this build... the (well my) dreaded C word.

I need to pick a carb yet. We have a factory Ford 4-barrel intake. This is just a street cruiser, not a high-power racer. I like the idea of a 4-bbl on this engine, because I think we can squeeze better mileage out of it with the smaller primaries, but I don't know much about carbs. For starters, what is a good CFM rating for a stock 5.0?
 
500cfm is a good rating for the 5.0. I'm running an edelbrock 1403. Simple two piece construction and easy to tune.

Yes the 85 mustangs came with holley 600cfm carbs but they were more for power then fuel economy when built. They also have gaskets below the fuel level that can leak on you (like mine did)

Both have there pros and cons.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
i would run a 5-600. you can bias it either way.


so it ended up being a c4 or is it a c3? allot of the 6's had c3's.


i would do the work for the aod and some gears unless you put a manual in it.
 
I looked into the trans a bit and figure it is a C4. The valve body stampings are consistent with the C4. Also I know the trans isn't original to the car. The junk yard markings indicate it is from an 86.

Postin' from teh Galaxy
 
I put a 550 Edelbrock on my 85 GT, and had my Buddy's Dad re-jet it for me. Seemed about perfect to me, other than your usual "that cloud moved, so I'm going to run different" carb issues.
 
Was looking through the Edelbrock book today. I am liking the looks of the 1403. 500CFM, says it is ideal for 302SBF/305SBC, electric choke, which is good since the car originally had the exhaust heated choke stove, so no manual cable, and I don't really want to run one.
 
Mines electric choke and adjustable for winter/summer. I have it set to winter still and have left it there since I would rather have it start easier then.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
Well, this will be a summer only car, so that isn't as much of a big thing.
 
Ok, now I have to deal with EGR. This is something I probably should have known, but didn't think about until it was pointed out to me today.

My intake came off of an 85, which means it has the EGR ports that flow back through the heads and up the intake between the middle cylinders.

I like the idea of EGR, but I know it gets wonky with carbs. I was talking to one of the guys at work, and he said to stack carb spacers to block the port. His advice seemed to indicate that not stacking them, only using a gasket or one block would boil the fuel.

I am almost thinking it might be less hassle to just run it with EGR.

Any advice on this matter?
 
You'll want to decide prior to buying a carb. Either way you'll need an EGR or non-EGR spacer. Edelbrock makes a spacer that will block it off, and I believe the part number is 8714. They also make a plate for EGR, but I don't recall the part number.
 
And just my 2 cents.... If you don't need to pass emissions, I would not run EGR. I really don't have any other reason but the fact I like to run as little as possible.
 

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