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5.0 economy


Kurt.king870s

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
75
City
NW Ohio
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Manual
Hey guys, I read a few pages back through the V8 swap threads, and gave up looking for some economy numbers on the 5.0. What kind of MPGs have you guys been getting?

Please post if you have efi or carburetor, and the mods you have that may have helped/hindered economy.
Thanks
 
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99 Regular cab, 306, T5 z spec 5 speed (2.95 1st gear, and .63 5th gear) 3.55 rear gears. OEM EFI with custom tune, GT 40p heads that are ported, GT40 upper and lower that is ported, Comp xe264 cam with 512 lift, 1.6 stamped stock rockers, hyperutectic pistons, scat rods, stock crank, everything weight matched to approx. 1750 grams per cylinder. Stock fan and accessories, 29 inch tires, 23 MPG Highway, 20 City, both with ac running full time.
 
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Properly working EFI will always have better MPG then properly tuned carb, just physics.

A carb setup must coat the inside of upper intake with air/fuel, which is lost fuel
EFI injectors are closer to intake valves so less loss
Sequential injection is even less loss than Batch fire injection.
Direct injection is even better, no loss of fuel on the backside of hot intake valves

In high vacuum, deceleration, injectors are shut off, no loss of fuel
More fuel is sucked out of idler needles in carbs because of the high vacuum, lost fuel

Higher pressure spray of injectors makes a more even air/fuel mix
Carbs rely air flowing past the Jets to get a good air/fuel mix, not as uniform.
 
I know that fuel injection would be best, but a carb would be easier for the swap. So I am mostly looking to see how much difference there is, and if a carb will be enough better than what I get now (12.5-13.5) Then I won't much care.
 
Well............

I honestly can't tell ya exact because of the tire size I run on rear bein different than stock.

All I can tell ya is, I don't use anymore gas with the 5.0L than I did with the 3slow, but don't lack for power:yahoo:.......
 
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Fuel injection isn't as complicated as most people think. As long as you have a wiring diagram on hand it's pretty simple.

Unless you're color blind. Then you're screwed!

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 
347 Stroker. 69 block with 68 heads built around a Lunati VooDoo 351 profile cam. This combo gives me 10.5-1 compression. I run a GM Qudra-Jet four barrel, and it all runs into a C-6 to a Dana 20 Transfercase, using 4:56 gearing and lockers to 36" IROCs and I get around 6mpg. Of course it cranks out around 425 hp. I didnt build it for mpg, I built it to be bad ass...
 
347 Stroker. 69 block with 68 heads built around a Lunati VooDoo 351 profile cam. This combo gives me 10.5-1 compression. I run a GM Qudra-Jet four barrel, and it all runs into a C-6 to a Dana 20 Transfercase, using 4:56 gearing and lockers to 36" IROCs and I get around 6mpg. Of course it cranks out around 425 hp. I didnt build it for mpg, I built it to be bad ass...


I'm also running a Quadra Jet and I'm lovin it!:icon_thumby:

I get about 10mpg on a stock 302 but honestly don't care!
 
I know that fuel injection would be best, but a carb would be easier for the swap. So I am mostly looking to see how much difference there is, and if a carb will be enough better than what I get now (12.5-13.5) Then I won't much care.

Honestly, if this is your 92, then the carb is not easier. It is usually easiest to stick with the same type of delivery system you already have.
 
So what am I going to need to get the fuel delivery all set up? Other than the obvious injector lines and injectors, I assume i'll need the computer from the donor? And will I need to take prices of the wiring harness? Or will mine be similar enough that I can mostly use it? I am gaining 2 cylinders, so it would seem that the wiring harness would be significantly different. Do I need a whole donor vehicle?
 
Oh, and thanks for the input. It will probably be a year or two until i'my tackling this, so I figured I should get my crap together as much as I can.:icon_welder:
 
Grab the Ecu and engine harness. You'll probably need a better fuel pump as well.

When you pull the engine just take the whole harness with it.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 
If MPG is the only concern then yes, EFI, but V8 swap is usually more about power than strictly MPG.
And driving a pickup truck in general means MPG is not a major concern, lol.

Yes, carb setup is basically 1 wire for spark, 1 wire for oil pressure and 1 wire for coolant temp, engine wiring is done, lol.

Carb and HEI distributor setup with 302/5.0l can get decent MPG in a Ranger, look up the old, pre-1980, F-150 302/5.0l numbers for MPG, Ranger is a little lighter and Factory specs for MPG are a little higher(optimistic), lol, so they should be about right on for what to expect, mid-teens.
Manual trans with OD would give best numbers but AOD(no computer needed) should be OK to use, locking torque converter will give best MPG, non-locking best power.

Definitely use an electric cooling fan on rad, bumps up MPG and power, not much but not 0 either.

2-barrel carb with manual choke would give best MPG, although new 4-barrels are worth a look, better fuel dispersion.
Carbs use 6-9psi fuel pressure, if you have an 1986-1997 Ranger you will have 35psi, so you will need a fuel pressure regulator to drop the pressure down, or switch to mechanical pump and remove in tank pump or replace it with lift pump

Vacuum gauge on dash lets YOU see when you are getting best MPG, helps to keep your foot off the gas pedal :)
Driving habits account for 3-5MPG
 
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Vacuum gauge on dash lets YOU see when you are getting best MPG, helps to keep your foot off the gas pedal


^^^ +1

now ron,you will need to give a long explanation on this because i bet many will be scratching their heads going huh??

lol cheers
 
Thanks guys. Yes, power is the biggest reason, but i'm going to college an hour away this fall, so I will probably be visiting home often.......so if it would hurt my econemy, I wouldn't do it.
I'll look into older engines, but I might go for an Explorer engine. I've heard that with the Explorer engine mounts, it will nestle down in the engine bay like it was meant for it. And I can mod it from there.......right now a stiff headwind means 4th gear for me, so a stock Explorer engine will be an unbelievable upgrade.
And I don't think i'lll ever be able to go back to an auto.....i'd rather rip out my entire seat for the shifter if need be, I want a manual.
Is there any good reason not to convert to an in line pump? Seems like that would be easier if it ever fails......don't have to pull the entire bed that way.
If I get a better tach, fuel pressure, and vacuum gauge, (and keep the stock ones) am I missing anything as far as gauges go? I like to know what's going on in the engine, I know that might be a bit much, but every once in a while I decide that I am going to do something for very little reason, and nobody can talk me out of it.
 

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