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4WD Not engaging, fr. driveshaft is spinning


ozziemo27

June 2010 OTOTM Winner
OTOTM Winner
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
1,701
City
Michigan
Vehicle Year
1999/1984
Transmission
Automatic
Hey folks, I was snow wheeling the other day and right before the trail I threw it in 4 high like usual and headed into the trail. I quickly got stuck and found out that front tires aren't even movin! Anyways, after I got a pull out, I found out that the front driveshaft is spinning when in 4 high and low so is this an indication of blown hubs? I know that the auto hubs suck and all but I would like rather replace the parts in question and keep the auto hubs. What do you guys think could be the problem? :icon_confused:
 
Pulse Vacuum Hubs...

Your much better to replace them for under $100 than try and repair them.
 
Cant he switch to the AVM Manual lock hubs? That would be the best case scenero since then he can choose when to have them locked in and then he knows for certain they are locked and working! Either that or I think there is a write up on how to convert it to a live setup where the front wheels are always engaged and the transfer case is the only thing that keeps it engage in 4wd. This will burn more fuel in the summer months when your front differential is spinning.
 
Cant he switch to the AVM Manual lock hubs? That would be the best case scenero since then he can choose when to have them locked in and then he knows for certain they are locked and working! Either that or I think there is a write up on how to convert it to a live setup where the front wheels are always engaged and the transfer case is the only thing that keeps it engage in 4wd. This will burn more fuel in the summer months when your front differential is spinning.

Thank you... I was talking in jibberish again. That is what I meant, a set of AVM's for under $100.
 
Pulse Vacuum Hubs...

Your much better to replace them for under $100 than try and repair them.

so, all i have to do is replace the hubs, not get a new linkage and all that junk? it will work with my electronic switch?
 
Or switch over too Explorer hubs and CVDs. I got the hubs and front CVD for around 50 bucks at a local pick and pull "Wrench n Go".

I did this to my 1999 Ranger the left side for some reason would be 1/2 engaged and make a sound of a dry seal
 
Yes, hubs only. Only thing is they are manual so you have to get out and turn each one before 4wd will pull, if you don't it will be just like what you have now, 4WD light on, driveshaft spinning, and no power.

I lock mine at the first snow and leave them locked until spring.
 
So, when the hubs are locked, i can be rollin down the road under 45mph and flip it in 4high and when they're unlocked, if i were to flip it in 4high, the foward driveshaft would simply spin and it wouldnt power the front, right? Or do i have to stop and lock them before I even think about putting them in in 4wheel, using the electric switch?

also, where did you find them under 100 bucks? the best I found is 135 w/ shipping
 
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With Manual hubs they must be in the LOCK position for your 4wd to work. If you put them in the LOCK position with your transfer case in 2WD, then your front axle will spin, but with no power applied through the transfer case. So if you have snow in MI, (which looking at the picture you do!) Then you should leave your hubs in the LOCK position like JSPafford does. Then you can switch in and out of 4wd via the switch on the dash at any point. For me in CA, the only time I use 4wd is when I go to the mountains during the winter. So I leave my hubs in the UNLOCKed position 360 days a year and only lock them when I get up to snow level.

Also another neat thing about manual hub locks is if you tow boats you can use 2wd Low. I use this more than my 4wd. By leaving my hubs unlocked, I can shift the transfer case into 4Low. It spins my front axle but because the hubs are unlocked, no power is applied. This is able to provide a lower gearing when towing a boat up a steep launch ramp. The reason I leave it in 2wd over just using full 4wd is because when backing up a trailer (especially where I go) I have to do a lot of maneuvering so I am doing full lock turns which will cause binding in the front axle in 4WD. The extra traction is not needed so I can get away with 2wd, but the lower gearing makes it easier on my truck.

Hope this helps the explanation.

As for finding them under $100. I cant help you on that. I have a 97 so I cant use the AVM setup (mine is different) But 135 w/ shipping sounds like a killer deal. I would hop on that fast!
 
Awesome! Thanks a lot for explaining it, I guess I know what I need now!

Hubs are in the mail. Looking foward to getting 4WD back :icon_thumby:
 
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Glad that helps. I remember a few years back when I went through the same thing. I spent hours reading on how the whole system works and asking lots of questions. Knowledge is good. Enjoy the manual hubs. I love them!
 
Glad that helps. I remember a few years back when I went through the same thing. I spent hours reading on how the whole system works and asking lots of questions. Knowledge is good. Enjoy the manual hubs. I love them!

haha, yea, I will enjoy the reliability, and go snow wheelin' again!
and not get stuck.......lol
 
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If anyone is interested, I have a pdf copy of the Diagnosis and Testing Manual for the 98-00 pulse vacuum hubs.
 
hey Ozzie, I know this thread is old but did you end up geting the hubs? and did you have to plug the old vacuum lines. I'm just wondering because my truck won't got into 4x4 because it's got no vacuum so I'm wondeing what it will think if the PVH hubs are just gone?
 

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