4wd hubs not working

[Kyallroad]

So, new member here and I hope this makes sense as I post it.

The 4wd system on the '94 Ranger does not engage. Today I set out to find out why. Things I've found so far include: transfer case actuator motor engages and turns 90 degrees. But then turns back to it's "rest" position. When 4wd engages it spins the front drive shaft and the front axle but the hubs do not engage. I removed the drivers side wheel and outer hub to find that the "grease" is more solid than lubricating so I started cleaning it out but stopped at this point. I think I need a special great big socket to remove the front hub nut to properly clean and regrease everything. But at this point I don't even know if the hubs work. How tough is a transfer to manually locking hubs? And any ideas about the 4wd actuator? At no time does the light come on saying that 4wd is engaged so I'm not sure where to go with it.

Thanks in advance all.

 

[RonD]

The pre-1998 auto hubs did have their problems, 1998-2000 were worse
In 2001 Ford just locked the front wheels to the axle and left it to the transfer case to engage or disengage front drive shaft.

The pre-'98 auto hubs just needed a light coat of grease, people often packed it with grease and then the hubs couldn't move to engage and disengage.
So clean it all up and just leave a light coat of grease or oil.

The large nut is for the wheel bearing, no need to remove it if you don't want to.
But it is held in place by a small wedge like a woodruff key at the top of the threads.
Picture here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/howto_hubswap.shtml
Pics 6 and 7 down
Magnet or small screw driver is needed to get it out, if you have tried to remove the nut with it in there then tighten nut a bit to release pressure on this wedge/key

Manual hub conversion is really the only reliable fix for any "auto hub"
But that being said my '94 Rangers auto hubs are still working fine.
In the summer I do put truck into 4WD high once a month to keep shift motor and hubs working, just drive it a 1/2 mile or so, then shift into 2WD and back up to release the hubs.
In the winter I use 4WD more

 

[BLOODBANE]

If your talking about the auto hubs, they are junk and will leave you walking. There is a plastic actuator ring on them that breaks (at least the ones I have seen have). You cant buy this ring separately. You have to replace the entire hub (last one I replaced was around 350). If your talking about the manuals, just clean them out the best you can and put some 10wt oil in them (ATF works well). Dont fill them up, just enough to coat the working parts. Make sure they spin and work them into and out of the lock position. Reinstall and you should be good. Make sure the O ring on the hub is in good shape as well, it can allow junk to get in the hub and bind it up (sorry dont know the size of these).
If you have auto's and want manuals you will need new spindle nuts (and the new hubs). Dont spend on a D35 spindle nut conversion kit. Go to your local NAPA, CarQuest, etc and get the inner and outer spindle nuts for a D44 and the lock ring (goes between the nuts. The nut with the nipple on it goes on the inside with the nipple facing out. Lock ring has holes in it to fit over the nipple, outer nut goes on). They make a 4 prong socket for these nuts (they are round with 4 slots cut in them) They are the same nut (D35 and D44)
Another thing to look at is on the passenger side axle. On the ends of the axles, there should be a c-clip. this keeps the axle splines pulled out enough to make contact with the hub. It really is only needed on the passenger side (there is a slip yoke in the middle of the axle that will let these splines pull back enough to not make contact) the driver side is solid so it doesnt do this. These are another part that you cant get from FORD (you can use the one off your driver side in a pinch) Whenever Im at a junkyard I try to get all of these I can, as usually they will give them to you cause as my JY told me they "just shoot'em off there". This will stop your 4x4 on a open diff rig as it sends power to the axle that can spin (the one not making contact with the hub).
If all this doesnt help, snap some pics (worth a 100 words) and we can narrow things down even more for you. Mark

 

[SenorNoob]

Those c-clips do more than hold the shaft into the hub. They also hold it tight to the seal on the back of the spindle.

BTW, if you have the wrong type of seal on there, you'll never get the clips in..