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4.0 SOHC


Ok, how did you guys get to the rear one? I’m having a difficult time getting at it with the tools I have.
Remove RightFrontWheel.
Remove rubber LowerMudSkirt.
Drill approx 1.5inch hole in lower edge of plastic UpperMudSkirt, aligned with right rear TimingTensioner.
27mm Socket & 20" or longer 0.5"DriveExtension & 0.5"Rachet.
A deep breath & grunt, turn CCW to loosen Tensioner.

Good to pre-oil new Tensioner, then press most of that oil out before install.
Be sure to use new Seal\Gasket\Washer with new Tensioner, & do your best to center it as it seats.
Be sure not to CrossThread.
Torq is 49LbFtMax.

2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.Tmng_Tool.Tens_Wrch.Torq.GIF
2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.Tmng_Tool.Tens_Wrch.Hand.GIF

2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.Tmng_Rght.Tens_Ford.xu3z-6k254-ba_3of3.GIF
2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.Tmng_Rght.Tens_Ford.xu3z-6k254-ba_1of3.GIF
 
My factory repair manual says to tighten to 30 something lb. ft. Are you sure it’s more than that?
 
My factory repair manual says to tighten to 30 something lb. ft. Are you sure it’s more than that?
49LbFt if old Seal\Gasket\Washer.
32LbFt if new Seal\Gasket\\Washer.
 
Thru the passenger side wheel well, pull the tire off or turn steering wheel to the left all the way
 
I know I'm a bit late to this party, but everything here is good as gold.

Don't get too down on your truck right away. Keep in mind that most of the time people only complain or talk about things that went wrong, usually because they either need help fixing it, or they are trying to get someone to take care of it for them, so you hear about the thousands of problems. What you don't hear about is the other few million times the problem DIDN'T happen.

FWIW I had one Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC that I sold with almost 200K on the clock, and now I have another one with 220K, and my dad has one with a hair over 175K, which have all been largely trouble free. My current Explorer has a slight chain noise at idle and above 2000 RPM, but it had a hard life before I bought it. I replaced what I think may have been the original spark plugs at 201,000 miles. Gap was almost 3X spec and it ran horribly.
 
I know I'm a bit late to this party, but everything here is good as gold.

Don't get too down on your truck right away. Keep in mind that most of the time people only complain or talk about things that went wrong, usually because they either need help fixing it, or they are trying to get someone to take care of it for them, so you hear about the thousands of problems. What you don't hear about is the other few million times the problem DIDN'T happen.

FWIW I had one Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC that I sold with almost 200K on the clock, and now I have another one with 220K, and my dad has one with a hair over 175K, which have all been largely trouble free. My current Explorer has a slight chain noise at idle and above 2000 RPM, but it had a hard life before I bought it. I replaced what I think may have been the original spark plugs at 201,000 miles. Gap was almost 3X spec and it ran horribly.

My 2003 4.0sohc has 250,000miles, changed the tensioners, plugs, and wire. Runs good as new.
 
My 2003 4.0sohc has 250,000miles, changed the tensioners, plugs, and wire. Runs good as new.

I haven't been deep into that engine, but based on what the tensioners looked like when I replaced them I'm guessing oil changes were not high on a previous owner's list of financial priorities.

Since a reman for that particular version is no longer available from Ford I plan to yank one from a yard and rebuild it myself this summer.
 
I have a 2007 Mustang with the SOHC 4.0. Heading for 123,000 soon. So far, the engine is quiet. I just finished installing heat vents in the hood, and if there was any noise, I'd most definitely hear it now. Did just have to have the 5R55 transmission rebuilt though. Not my fault. I bought it with 112,000 miles. Had the fluid and filter changed pretty quickly after, but it was likely too late. The fluid was a yucky sickly yellowish brown color. Anyhow, a snap ring broke inside and proceeded to just lay waste to the inside. Had to have it rebuilt. Fortunately, I have a friend who does such things. Cost me $2000, and that included a new torque converter at my request, as I had transmission code P0741, Torque Converter Clutch Locked Off. Also included one of Rick's homemade shift kits. And the six pack of solenoids has been replaced as well .Should be good for a long time to come now.

I'm loving it now. No more blinking OD OFF light, no more overactive tach on the highway, and I can actually feel it shift, even into OD. ;-)
 

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Ok, how did you guys get to the rear one? I’m having a difficult time getting at it with the tools I have.
Correct socket, ball swivel and long extension, I used 1/2 drive stuff and have a 36" extension. When it pops loose you will probably think the socket slipped, so be ready not to bust your knuckles.
 
I think it is easier to remove the wheel wheel liner too. That way you can get up in there with good vision and room to remove and, most importantly, install the right side tensioner. It is not easy to remove the liner but it is not that hard. Everybody has there own ways of doing things though.
 
My 2007 Ranger has just over 250K on it now and I've had no issues other than a blown head gasket! I bought it with 170K on it and the tensioners had never been replaced. That was the first thing I did. That and change the plugs, wires and all the fluids. I chose to remove the inner fender plastic because it made life a lot easier. I also installed the headers while the plastic was out. I think the 4.0 SOHC is good reliable engine!
 
I was able to get a socket in an extension, on the tensioner. I just don’t have long enough of an extension. Just have to push up on the liner.
 
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I think the 4.0 SOHC is good reliable engine!

I agree.

The biggest indictment of the 4.0 SOHC is the "miles of timing chain" and the potential for chain stretch that goes with long chains, but that potential comes from having many links in a single long chain. The longest chain in the SOHC isn't any longer than the chain in the OHV, and much shorter than the ones used on the Triton engines. It has three chains that are all roughly the same length. One from the crank to the jack shaft, and two from the jack shaft to the cams.
 
I like my 4.0 SOHC. Just...

-change the plastic thermostat housing out for a Simmons Autosportz aluminum housing.
-keep oil changed frequently.
-keep timing chain tensioners changed every so often?? I mean, honestly, my 07 is still quiet and has the originals at 118,000 miles. Maybe changing them out is not as big a deal as some make them out to be. Most people probably never change them and still get 200,000 miles or more out of the engine.
 

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