4.0 SOHC Timing Chain Info, Links and Tips (please add!)

[bigredscowboy]

I'm still in the process but I thought I would stop and collect some info since TRS doesn't have as much to do about the SOHC as explorerforum.com(and others) on this topic. This is as much for me to have easy access to links and personal experiences as well as for others.

Whether or not one has the death rattle, the timing setup is a wearable part and should be replaced as such. The plastic is the first to go but chains and gears wear down too. 150,000 is probably a good mile-marker to mull over this. 2000StreetRod on explorerforum.com is a wealth of knowledge and has provided many helpful threads

Comprehensive Diagnosis and Links to Repair

Inspection and Repair

Timing Kit Sources

The Timing Chain Saga from start to finish (elongated version of repair, my personal favorite)

Engine Removal

Nevertheless, there are options on how involved you want to get with this project:

One could start with just the 00m12 Tensioner Kit Install (and probably should do both tensioners every 75,000)

Some have done just the main chain and tensioners (will not affect timing if held at TDC)

Or pull the motor and do the whole thing via 2000StreetRod's above threads or

• A decent "blog" on the whole process but pictures are separate

Other things to do if engine is out?

• PCV valve or gasket
• EGR gasket
• My oil adapter was weeping so I replaced it and new o-rings on the bolt
• Clutch kit (I'm going to try out the Hays Super-Truck 90-344) and slave
• Thermostat (and possibly housing if it breaks)
• Since I'm pulling from an X donor, I am swapping in the 130A alternator using the X mount
• Body lift?!

Part Numbers

One sight for Diagrams and OEM Parts (I'm sure there are others)

My observations:

• If strapped for cash, buy the OTC tool 6488 used and sell it when you are done. Do the same for the hoist and engine stand.
• The camshaft tool inserts into the slot at the opposite end from the sprocket. These notches are offset from center and should be on the low side on both sides for the compression stroke reassembly (small 1/4 on bottom and larger 1/2 on top). Make the OTC tool is also offset so use it the same on both and it should fit the same. (camshaft, tool installed)
• When referencing the timing chain assemblies, Left is right and vice versa (at least in my brain). The rear assembly is right and the front assembly is left (as if from the driver/passenger perspective, not standing in front of the engine).
• My left cassette guide (front) did NOT slide out through the head. I had to get creative and force it out and then force it back in. Nevertheless, the heads should not have to be removed.
• The oil pan does not have to be removed unless you want to access the 4x4 tensioner. Even still, I did not remove the whole metal 4x4 tensioner (because I stripped the external torx bolt) but simply put the new spring and plastic guide on the old metal assembly.
• If I could do it again, after removing the engine I would clean it with degreaser/solvent and pressure wash it BEFORE taking any engine parts off. I pulled the intake off first and it was filthy, allowing dirt into the intake port.