4.0 SOHC removal

[JJMaine]

Picked up a crane, engine stand and load leveler. Just got started today and managed to get the intake off. I spent the first half of the day mowing leaves and trimming branches so I had a good place to park my Ranger out of the way for awhile.

Tomorrow I'm going to attempt to get all of the stuff off the front of the motor, radiator and starter out and hopefully the torque converter bolts out. Any tips on that would be appreciated. I don't have any "special" swivel wrenches or ratchets and no ratcheting wrenches so it's slow going. Definitely will get some ratcheting wrenches before I put the motor back in lol.

Are the torque converter bolts easy to get to once the starter is out? And the other thing I'm worried about is how to reach the top bell housing bolts?

I'm second guessing my decision to buy the 1 ton hoist as it may not extend long enough to easily get the engine out of my ranger. Should I just return it and get the 2 ton of it'll make things a whole lot easier?

Does anyone know of a Ranger 4.0 SOHC engine removal video? I can only find videos on removing the engine from a 4.0 Explorer which are helping but not quite the same as the Ranger. I have the factory service manual but that gives limited info on a lot of things. Thanks guys!

 

[Uncle Gump]

That hoist should work...

Top bell housing bolts... a 3 foot extention over the top of the trans sure helps.

You'll probably use a socket and a short extension for the converter hardware. Bar the engine over to line up the next one.

Many of your worries will fade when ya just get in there and see what ya got.

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks. Yeah it doesn't seem as daunting as I thought it would be. I'm sure I'll get it figured out but these small tips sure do help!

You get all of the bell housing bolts out from under the truck? On the Explorer video I watched he got the top 3 or 4 from reaching down behind the engine in the engine bay but looking at mine it looks damn near impossible to do it that way. I might have 3' worth of 3/8" extensions if I snap em all together. Thanks!

 

[Uncle Gump]

This is where a body lift helps...

It's better if ya have a single extension... but ya have to do what ya have to do.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I forgot...

The long extension... has a swivel impact socket on one end... 1/2 impact on the the other.

 

[JJMaine]

I've got a 1/2 impact but I'll have to improvise on the rest. If need be I don't mind buying tools to get the job done. I can buy a lot of tools and still be less than the $6k estimate I got to do my head gaskets.

 

[SenorNoob]

That's the spirit. I've always done the top 2 from above on mine but I have the OHV. Way less stuff in the way.

The 2.8 S10 I had we ran extensions far enough to stick out between the bed and bumper. Felt silly but it worked.

 

[gw33gp]

It is a lot easier to get to the top bolts if you lower the rear of the transmission. I know you probably do not want to mess with the transmission, but those top bolts are difficult to get to.

If you take the top bolts out first with the rear of the transmission hanging down a little then you can raise the transmission back up and secure it to get to the rest of the bell housing bolts.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So… the SOHC has one more bellhousing bolt than the OHV, otherwise it’s pretty similar is how it disconnects.

I’m lazy so I usually just throw a mat on top of the engine and reach over the back of the engine for the upper bolts. A body lift helps a lot with this and you need a lot of finger/hand/arm strength usually but it can be done. It’s actually easier with the intake there to lay on but you have more access with it off. The best method is to pull the flooring back in the cab to expose the pan on top of the transmission hump. It can be done with the seats all the way back but it’s easier with the seats out. If you pull that pan, most of the bolts are pretty much right there.

A swivel helps with the bellhousing bolts. I prefer an impact swivel, they work smoother than the u-joint style and hold position better.

Torque converter bolts I do a 3/8” drive with a short socket and 3” extension. Ideally someone with a breaker bar or big ratchet on the crank bolt to spin it over so you can get all 4 in one shot, but I’ve played both jobs before. It’s easier to turn over with the spark plugs out, just FYI.

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks guys for the suggestions! I didn't know that you could gain access from inside the cab. I'm going to have to look into that. One way or another I guess I'm going to have to get them out.

 

[JJMaine]

Going to go buy a fan clutch tool now. Does anyone know which way the nut threads off on the 4.0 SOHC? There's nothing on the radiator support or in the manual so I'm assuming it's regular right hand threads?

 

[JJMaine]

I can't get this goddamn fan clutch nut off. I went and bought the OTC tool bought it sucks and won't hold the bolts for me to get the nut loose. I've tried ratchet strapping the pulley to the frame and it just slips. I don't want to crank on the ratchet strap too much and damage something. I don't have an air hammer

 

[don4331]

I wimped on the last 4.0 I pulled and just undid the bolts for the water pump and lifted water pump and fan assembly out as a unit to get it out of the way. Then a water pump gasket to reinstall at the end.

I'm pretty sure the fan is left hand threaded.

If you visualize it, you have to turn the fan in the same way the engine is turning it. (If it was threaded the other way, it would undo itself...)​

Access to the bolts is super easy if you lift the cab off, but undoing the cab mounts is a challenge of its own.

Helps to have a buddy with a lift.​

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks Don. I'm going to try putting some heat to it and see what happens. Yeah a lift would be great right about now. I think mine is right hand threads. I took a look at the video I took of my truck running earlier and see that the fan spins counter clockwise so that's the way the nut should come off?

 

[RobbieD]

Before you destroy anything, just look at your fan. The blades are angled, so that the fan PULLS air through the radiator.

Use the blade angle to determine for sure which way the fan rotates- clockwise or counter-clockwise.

Turn the fan clutch nut the OPPOSITE of the fan's rotation direction to loosen it. The fan assembly is designed, so that normal rotation will tighten things, instead of loosen things.

To break the clutch loose from the pump shaft I use a blunt punch on the nut's shoulder, and give it a few light taps with a hammer. That has always worked for me.