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4.0 SOHC head gaskets/timing chains


Now the heads on the other hand are a different story. I think I'm going to have to either get them resurfaced or buy reman heads for $700 complete. Depending on cost and wait time for a resurface I'll decide what to do.

You can fit a .009" feeler gauge under the straight edge on both sides of the middle combustion chamber (on both heads). That would explain why the head gaskets both had carbon on them in those areas. I am going to take an hour or two and clean them up more and recheck but I think they are too wonky to just reuse. Spec in the manual if I remember is max .004"
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I had a set of heads milled last year and the cost for that plus magnaflux was about $250. Just an FYI what to expect for cost.

If you can get a pair of new or reman heads for a decent price then maybe that would be the way to go. OEM Ford heads for OHV 4.0's on eBay (brand new) were about $500 for the pair... I bought two pairs... but I see reman SOHC heads on RockAuto are pretty spendy. Maybe having yours checked/fixed is the way to go.
 
The block sealing surfaces look ok. If nothing catches with a finger nail and it feels smooth, you are good. Buffing everything until it's shiney isn't necessary.

As far as the head(s), if they are out of spec, I would get them machined or find some other heads to use. Machining might be cheaper.
 
Cheapest I can find a set of 8L2E heads is $700 so I'm sure machining will be cheaper. I'll call this afternoon and see what it cost and the wait time. If they're a month out I'll buy remans but if they can have them done in a short time then I'll do that.
 
Angle grinder and a steady hand will take care of that. LOL
 
Check out my sweet timing chain tensioner that Rock Auto sent me. Cloyes part # 9-5686 if anyone wants it let me know. Not sure what it goes to but not my engine! It was only $17 on "dealer closeout" at Rock Auto so not even worth my time to return.
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How much power loss do you think I had with the head gasket issue and the cylinders leaking into each other? I'm sure the previous owner overheated the truck and then quickly sold it to me haha.

When I bought it there was a radiator cap in the cup holder and the coolant reservoir was near empty. When I checked the radiator it was full and the coolant looked new. He said he just "flushed" the coolant. 👍. I say that only to say that I think the truck hasn't been quite 100% since I bought it and being my first Ranger I have no other reference for how it should "feel".

Im sure this will cure the rough idle I've been chasing for a year😆
 
one question. did you examine the head gaskets thoroughly to check for a fault in them? how did they turn out? could you see a tear or a blown part? reason asking, is that the piston and valve pics you posted make it look like pretty normal wear in them. i don't see a steamed cleaned piston top from a blown head gasket releasing coolant into a hot chamber.
 
It wasn't releasing coolant into a hot chamber I don't think. My problem was confirmed with a bore scope. When the truck sat overnight and cooled down, coolant was leaking into a few of the cylinders causing misfire on start up. It started last summer and I chased my tail thinking it was a fuel pump issue. Then I discovered the coolant in the cylinders. Right before I took the engine out it seemed to be getting worse and worse every few days so decided to get it done. The Ford dealership also confirmed I needed head gaskets though they quoted me $6k and that's IF the block and heads were flat.

There is evidence on the head gaskets and block where they were leaking between cylinders but I couldn't really see where the coolant was getting in, maybe same place?b Also 4 of the six pistons cleaned up easily with a quick wipe of a rag and brake cleaner, only 2 pistons I had to use berrymans and a toothbrush and scrub the carbon off.

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