Sure, there are quite a few replacement valve covers for the 4.0l, fancy and plain, but stock are fine if flat and not rusted,

You do have the coil bracket to deal with but it can be raised.
Valve cover oil leaks are gravity leaks, but can be started by blow-by pressure.
Blow-by is the pressure pushed into the crankcase/valve cover area each time a cylinder fires, this is normal on all engines, but as the miles go up the rings wear down and blow-by increases.
There are two things on the engine that vent blow-by pressure, the PCV Valve and the Vent hose, both need to be clean and working to keep pressure in valve cover area low to prevent leaks from starting.
Valve covers and gaskets:
Stamped steel valve covers(like the stock ones) seal best with cork gaskets, the cork absorbs some oil and swells to seal better, down side is that over the years the cork near the exhaust manifold(the side that leaks) will dry out and harden, so seal can fail after a few years, thicker cork gaskets last longer, but longer bolts are usually needed.
If using after market cast valve covers rubber or silicone gaskets are better to use, these are often used because valve covers can be remove and reinstalled without new gaskets needed, cork can break if valve covers are removed often, so the cast covers and rubber gaskets are the choice for people that like to adjust valves....alot, lol.
The cast covers also look very nice on an engine.
With either choice obviously both the head and valve cover need to be clean and flat, warped valve covers will not seal well.
Follow the pattern for tightening and do NOT over tighten, too much torque can warp and bulge gaskets.