lil_Blue_Ford
Cut & Weld
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Supporting Member
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- Joined
- Aug 6, 2007
- Messages
- 10,641
- City
- Butler
- State - Country
- PA - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Engine
- 5.0
- Transmission
- Automatic
- Total Drop
- 4”
It’s not really recommended procedure, but you can chain or strap to the exhaust manifolds. The better way is to bolt to the heads, but you have to pull the accessory drive off the front of the motor to do it, which is actually a help because it gives you more room to manouver.
A 94 Explorer will be reasonably similar. Some of the wiring will not match up though, that’s something you’ll have to figure out. Should be all on the drivers side that you’ll have to mate everything up.
Front axle is a bolt-in swap. Remove the driveshaft, shocks, brake calipers, ABS sensor wiring if it has it, remove the steering from the pitman arm, disconnect the sway bar if it has it, pull the axle pivot bolts and the radius arm nuts and pull it all one shot.
Rear axle is a problem. Explorers used SUA (Spring Under Axle) so the spring perches are welded to the wrong side of the axle unless you’re planning to majorly lower the Ranger, which is SOA (Spring Over Axle). So the spring perches have to be cut off the axle tube and re-welded to change that.
A 94 Explorer will be reasonably similar. Some of the wiring will not match up though, that’s something you’ll have to figure out. Should be all on the drivers side that you’ll have to mate everything up.
Front axle is a bolt-in swap. Remove the driveshaft, shocks, brake calipers, ABS sensor wiring if it has it, remove the steering from the pitman arm, disconnect the sway bar if it has it, pull the axle pivot bolts and the radius arm nuts and pull it all one shot.
Rear axle is a problem. Explorers used SUA (Spring Under Axle) so the spring perches are welded to the wrong side of the axle unless you’re planning to majorly lower the Ranger, which is SOA (Spring Over Axle). So the spring perches have to be cut off the axle tube and re-welded to change that.