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4.0 engine swap won't run


idajack

New Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2009
Messages
3
Vehicle Year
1988 ranger
19
Transmission
Automatic
My son is working on a high school project swapping the engine in a 93 explorer with a rebuilt 4.0 out of a 90 ranger.
we have everything in and hooked up and the engine turns over but won't start.
Fuel pressure is ~40psi
engine will fire with starting fluid.
I am assuming the injectors are not firing at this point.
I am checking the various sensors
crankshaft position sensor
tps
maf
coolant sensor
knock sensor
I can't seem to locate the camshaft position sensor though.
I assume it should be at the back of the engine where the distributor would be but it doesn't seem to be there.
anyone have a picture of it?
is it actually there on this engine or is this engine older and thus doesn't have one?
I can't get to the 93 engine today since it is at the school to verify from it where the sensor is. (he towed this home and has been working on at home in the garage over spring break)
any help is appreciated.
 
Are you SURE your 1993 is actually equipped with a cam position sensor?

Are you in california? is it a california spec vehicle?

AD
 
take a test light, with a paper clip(my favorite tool lol) put the paper clip on the neg side of the test light. and put the two in one of the plugs for the injectors. crank the motor over and it should pulse. also i don't think 93 came with cam sensors. if they did there should be a plug in the back of the harness with three wires going out of it. worse comes to worse you can go to the junk yard and pull one. don't quote me on this but i think you can get the whole synchronizer assemble form a ranger/ explorer, and the 3.0L Taurus
 
The wire harness are different between those years. It might plug in but some wires are in different location in the plugs. I had to move some wires on my swap
 
It turns out the engine doesn't have a cam position sensor, The Haynes manual we are using shows one however they were added after the 93 model year.
We found the problem to be the coil pack and plug wires, I am not sure why it would run on starting fluid and not by itself but replacing the coil pack and plug wires did get it running.
Now there are just a couple exhaust leaks and the radiator plug to fix and he should be good.
Thanks for the replies.
 
the coil pack could have been cracked. I don't remember which side but one of the bolt holes also is the ground, if that corner cracks then the engine doesn't run.
 
it looks fine, same p/n and everything. I am still stumped why it would run with starting fluid but not on it's own
HMMMM
 

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