4.0 clutch swap

[4x4junkie]

It's because the starter motor acts as a generator as it's spinning down. This creates a back-EMF that holds the solenoid engaged for several seconds after you let go the key if the wires are tied together like that. Meanwhile the starter pinion grinds against your flywheel (a very disturbing sound I might add lol).

IIRC, the link I posted mentions this.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

I get that. Just don't understand why don't other starters do that?

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 2

 

[4x4junkie]

What other starters? You mean the stock 2.9L one?
The stock one doesn't have an external solenoid to engage the pinion gear like the 4.0L one has... Instead it has an internal mechanism that works off the motor's magnetic field to thrust the gear out, which retracts immediately when power is removed.
The 4.0L starter was deigned to be hooked to constant battery power and controlled via just the solenoid.

 

[adsm08]

Adsm, your method would work too, however I'd be afraid of that possibly putting too much load on the ignition switch contacts. I suspect this is why Ford chose to continue with the fender-mounted relay rather than just going straight to the starter solenoid (though I'll admit I haven't actually measured the current going to the solenoid, I wouldn't be surprised if it's 5-10 amps).

My current setup mimics the original 4.0 wiring in every aspect except the gauge of the wire going to the small post. Since the load will only draw the current that it needs to operate when more is available (this is why your 15 amp fuse doesn't pop when you turn the lights on even though the battery has several hundred) I don't see the use of the heavier wire causing any issues long term.

 

[4x4junkie]

My current setup mimics the original 4.0 wiring in every aspect except the gauge of the wire going to the small post. Since the load will only draw the current that it needs to operate when more is available (this is why your 15 amp fuse doesn't pop when you turn the lights on even though the battery has several hundred) I don't see the use of the heavier wire causing any issues long term.

Ah, OK, I guess I misunderstood your post, you took the BIG existing starter wire for the 2.9L unit (from the relay contact) and connected that to the small terminal of the 4.0L solenoid.
I read it as you took the little existing wire (control lead for the relay) and connected that to the 4.0L solenoid (which is what I was talking about could kill the ignition switch after a short time).

Nevermind.

 

[kaytor692]

well the swap went well found a few other things i need to fix i need a hole shifter assembly the tower has a large hole in it and the bushing is worn, i need and a couple of u-joints but other then that it went well thanks again fellas