4.0 bellhousing issue?

[litlred]

Im doing the 4.0 swap into my b2 and im wanting to keep the original fm-146 trans to keep the cost down. i installed a new flywheel and clutch kit for the 4.0(10 inch) and now my bellhousing is hitting the pressure plate inside, have anybody else had the same problems?

I did go to the junk yard to find another bellhousing from a 4.0/manual, and found out is the exact same as what i have.

I could probably grind the bellhousing where the clutch is hitting, but is that necessary?

 

[AllanD]

There may be an internal rib that the pressure plate is hitting
either trimming or removing it should cure your problem as far as your going to the junkyard to look at a 4.0 bellhousing? On What?

the only manual trans for the 4.0 is a Mazda and it doesn't have
a removeable bellhousing.

AD

 

[litlred]

well the one i looked at did. im not sure what it came out of, but it was a 4.0 with manual 4 wheel drive trans. not sure which trans though. it was laying outside

 

[AllanD]

I say again, there is NO 4.0 manual transmission with a removeable bellhousing.

If it has a removeable bellhousing and a two bolt mout starter
on the drivers side it's a 2.9 trans.

PERIOD.

I'm not debating this with you, I'm stating a fact.
Adjust your perception to match reality.

IF you are basing your conclusion on the fact that there
was a 13-54 fixed yoke T-case bolted to the trans those
were used on everything 1991-on

AD

 

[litlred]

I'm not gonna argue with you Allan. Don't reply if your gonna be argumentative, I don't have have time for stupidity, so thanks for the input. I do appreciate the help. ive ground the ribs like you suggested. I think it will work fine. Have you had to do this before?

 

[AllanD]

Being arguementative? Moi?

I think you need a mirror.

I say again, I'm stating fact, if you don't believe me that is entirely your issue. And don't believe for a nanosecond that I'm emotionallly invested in "arguing"

I state facts, not opinions.

I have no reason to mislead you nor any interest other than resolving your issue. If you don't want my help ask somewhere else.

TRS is about technical accuracy, I've given you that and only that

And if anyone has less time and patience for stupidity (in this case being defined as "insistant ignorance" Being wrong or misinformed about something,
but insisting you are right) it is me.
As for you not having time for stupidity?
Frankly the story of my life is all about battling against
other people's stupidity.

It is my personal crusade.

If you don't like my answer I am sorry I am unable to give you a comforting (but untruthful) answer that you will like.

IF you saw a 4x4 trans with a removeable bellhousing it is NOT a 4.0 trans for a Ranger

Allegedly there were some third gen ('02-04) Explorers that came with a removeable bell "R4" trans but I haven't seen any documentation on this, so it remains unproven..

Have I ground the ribs in an FM146/132 myself? Not personally

The first 4.0 clutch I used I swapped in at the same time
I swapped in a 4.0 Mazda trans and they (and the 2.9 version of
the Mazda) are free of annoying internal ribs.

Good luck.

AD

 

[litlred]

why do i need a mirror? have i argued with you? reed my post again please?

As far as the trans i seen at the junk yard, it is possible that its a fm-146 connected to a 4.0 lt engine... right? cause you never know who might have attempted this swap before... that my friend is fact. Yes, factory wise, ill agree that only m5od (or mazda's as your calling them) came behind non-auto 4.0's. Would you agree to the fact that someone could have attempted the 4.0lt swap with the fm-146 before, and this is what confused me at the junk yard? The fact is I know what i saw.

As i said before, i do appreciate your help in my technical issues, hopefully i can return the favor someday.

As far as the stupidity I was reffering to all the non-needed items that come in your post. Like this post, Im wrighting alot of information thats really pointless in getting to the whole point of me even getting on this site... information. honestly i would have liked to get an answer from someone who maybe has had the specific problem i have. I mean considering all the 4.0's that have been swapped in, im sure someone has had this problem before. but i appreciate your time allan.

how much do you think a mazda would cost me? and is it just a bolt in swap. thanks for your help.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

All that struggle to put in a trans that will explode behind a 4.0 in a few short weeks...

Find an M5OD-R1 trans, your gunna have to buy it soon enough anyways if you mate a FM to a 4.0.

P.S. Don't argue with Allan. You'll never win. He is one of, if not the, most knowledgeable people I've ever held a conversation with.

 

[Totalled]

All that struggle to put in a trans that will explode behind a 4.0 in a few short weeks...

Find an M5OD-R1 trans, your gunna have to buy it soon enough anyways if you mate a FM to a 4.0.

This. PS, even a 2.9 M5OD will work fine behind a 4.0. I've been running one for a few years.

 

[BlackBII]

I ran a fm146 behind a 4.0 for nearly a year with no issues. It really depends on the shape the tranny is in now.

So you ground off the ribs and it's going to work?

 

[Clem]

litlred:
If you found a transmission at the wrecking yard with a removable bellhousing on a 4.0, it could very well have been the other weak trans that was put behind the 2.9 and is very similar to the fm145 & 146, the TK5. The later will bolt to a 4.0 and the 10" clutch without any interference, however, IMHO these are worse than a fm as far as strength goes.
For my 4.0 swap, I bit the bullet and bought a M50D and will live with the the expense, rather than having to do the conversion after everything is together and the trans gives up.
I don't know the length from the bellhousing to transmission mount on an fm, but the TK5 is 2" shorter than a M50D for that measurement. So you have to move the transmission cross member back 2", which means cutting the driveline.
The other weak link you didn't mention is the 1350 transfer case, buy a 1354, again, if you do the swap the way it sounds like you are, you will need to do the front drive line when you change to the M50D/1354.
I have a philosophy about things like this: Do it once, if it is worth doing, do it right the first time.
I may not be the brightest bulb on the block, but I will spend more time to do the job right the first time rather than have to do the same job again.

Ray