302 will not start

[kevinbmx77]

Ok so im posting this here because we tried all day long to make this thing run and we just can get it going. So we are manually putting gas into the carburetor and the most we get is flames out of the headers and it wont keep going. We dont have a fuel pump going to the carb just us manually dumping. We have eveything electrical hooked to a battery.
We tried pulling the distributor and turning the rotor 180° assuming i may have timed it on an exhaust stroke instead of compression. Im pretty much ready to tear into my truck and drop it in but this is killing it for me. Heres a video of whats happening https://vimeo.com/135936589

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

[RonD]

Well first thing I would do is to remove #1 spark plug and rotate engine manually with finger in #1 spark plug hole, when finger gets pushed out #1 is on compression stroke.

Rotate crank until it is at TDC mark

Pop off distributor cap and rotor should be pointed at #1 wire on cap, if not reset distributor.

Now triple check firing order on cap.

302 distributor rotates Counter Clockwise
1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

So if #1 is at 12:00, then 5 is at 11:00, 4 at 10:00 ect.....

Until you get some air flow dumping gas in usually only gets fuel into a few cylinders.

Put gas in a spray bottle and spray while engine is cranking.
Or better yet get a rubber hose and funnel and fill float bowl with fuel, when you pump throttle it will spray fuel in.

 

[Hagan]

I'd double check your firing order. RonD posted the firing order for a flat tappet camshaft. If your 302 (like mine) has a roller cam it requires a different firing order. I swapped engines in my Bronco (It's fullsize) and I picked up a newer 302 with a roller cam. I had the firing order for the other camshaft and it would barely run. Swapped plug wires and I've been driving it for over a year.

Good luck!

 

[kevinbmx77]

Well first thing I would do is to remove #1 spark plug and rotate engine manually with finger in #1 spark plug hole, when finger gets pushed out #1 is on compression stroke.

Rotate crank until it is at TDC mark

Pop off distributor cap and rotor should be pointed at #1 wire on cap, if not reset distributor.

Now triple check firing order on cap.

302 distributor rotates Counter Clockwise
1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

So if #1 is at 12:00, then 5 is at 11:00, 4 at 10:00 ect.....

Until you get some air flow dumping gas in usually only gets fuel into a few cylinders.

Put gas in a spray bottle and spray while engine is cranking.
Or better yet get a rubber hose and funnel and fill float bowl with fuel, when you pump throttle it will spray fuel in.

Im going to check the timing and firing order next time im there, we were using the spray bottle idea and it kinda blew up in my face so im actually going to buy a pump and regulator and get the fuel running properly.

dont want this again lmao

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

[kevinbmx77]

I'd double check your firing order. RonD posted the firing order for a flat tappet camshaft. If your 302 (like mine) has a roller cam it requires a different firing order. I swapped engines in my Bronco (It's fullsize) and I picked up a newer 302 with a roller cam. I had the firing order for the other camshaft and it would barely run. Swapped plug wires and I've been driving it for over a year.

Good luck!

The different firing order is that of a 351 right?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

[shortzt]

 

[Hagan]

The different firing order is that of a 351 right?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

Yes, that is correct.

 

[kevinbmx77]

Im not going to be trying to start it anymore till i have it in the truck. I dont think ratchet straps and a pallet are going to hold it down tight enough. Im sure it will run once i fix the timing

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

[bobbywalter]

the ratchet straps will hold it...prop the mounts with some blocks as well.


i specifically prefer to run the engine with a radiator some how connected to it to get to running temps for oil pressure check and obvious noise issues to surface.


apparently your not picking up what ron was putting down....you dont need a fuel pump with a carb, just feed the inlet with a raised container of some sort.


get it on tdc......put a dowel or something that wont fall in like a screwdriver in the #1 hole when its on the compression stroke till it breaks over after it stops at tdc....then go back and forth and note the degrees of deflection....once your on tdc do what he said...drop the dizzy in with it slightly turned so it seats on the #1 spot of the distributor as it goes down...i see many guys get a tooth off because they can not figure the obvious out..


....why the fawk you would dump raw fuel into anything and have your face near it cranking??? to be polite...that is retarded. if its blowing fire in your face.....which is to be expected....timing is likely an issue.


the fact your getting fire is indicative your on the right track....once the timing is sorted it should run fine. of course if there are mechanical isues with the engine.....installing and then taking the engine apart once it is in the truck makes it all that much more difficult.

 

[kevinbmx77]

the ratchet straps will hold it...prop the mounts with some blocks as well.


i specifically prefer to run the engine with a radiator some how connected to it to get to running temps for oil pressure check and obvious noise issues to surface.


apparently your not picking up what ron was putting down....you dont need a fuel pump with a carb, just feed the inlet with a raised container of some sort.


get it on tdc......put a dowel or something that wont fall in like a screwdriver in the #1 hole when its on the compression stroke till it breaks over after it stops at tdc....then go back and forth and note the degrees of deflection....once your on tdc do what he said...drop the dizzy in with it slightly turned so it seats on the #1 spot of the distributor as it goes down...i see many guys get a tooth off because they can not figure the obvious out..


....why the fawk you would dump raw fuel into anything and have your face near it cranking??? to be polite...that is retarded. if its blowing fire in your face.....which is to be expected....timing is likely an issue.


the fact your getting fire is indicative your on the right track....once the timing is sorted it should run fine. of course if there are mechanical isues with the engine.....installing and then taking the engine apart once it is in the truck makes it all that much more difficult.

I was leaning down to aim for the carb lol i didnt think before i did that. Thanks for all the info, before i was actually dumping into the top of the carb because thats what my friends dad was saying to do but i will do it through the inlet this time. As for the timing hopefully the distributor is in wrong or the firing order is off a bit. When i did my timing i pulled the harmonic balancer and used the mark on the crank to find tdc. Basically the slit on the crankshaft in this picture

it may have been on an exhaust stroke when i thought it was tdc

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

[RonD]

The woodruff key is in the right place, #1 piston is at TDC compression stroke or TDC exhaust stroke in that position, so is #6.

If Cam gear was there and it's timing mark/"dot" was pointed straight down at the woodruff key, then engine would be at #1 TDC compression stroke and #6 would be at TDC exhaust stroke.

 

[kevinbmx77]

The woodruff key is in the right place, #1 piston is at TDC compression stroke or TDC exhaust stroke in that position, so is #6.

If Cam gear was there and it's timing mark/"dot" was pointed straight down at the woodruff key, then engine would be at #1 TDC compression stroke and #6 would be at TDC exhaust stroke.

Ok so something i just though of, the kid that sold me the cam said it uses 351 timing but the cam and lifters that i installed from him are flat tappet which should be 302 firing order right? Or am i thinking of this wrong?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk