302 swap steering issues

[Mrthechicken102]

I recently finished my 302 swap but have now found that my steering box has started leaking. Is there anyway to relocate the gear box either lower to fully clear the exhust or on the outside of the frame? I have already jacked the engine up by about an inch and it is still clipping the exhust manifold just a bit.

 

[franklin2]

You can't move the steering box, it will foul the geometry of the steering linkage. Keep studying the situation and photos of these swaps. It has been done hundreds of times with success, so something is different about your setup.

You can off-center the engine some for clearance. The factory did it all the time.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Most (myself included) have left the factory box in place and it works great. Its the same box used on pretty much any Ford truck that isn't a flipnose so it is plenty strong for a Ranger.

I know some with more unconventional steering boxes swap to a Toyota box that goes outside the frame which will necessitate a lot more work as you have to redesign your steering. I know @bobbywalter has mentioned this before. Be patient it could be awhile before he sees this, he is pretty busy.

 

[bobbywalter]

you can use a 2wd gm saginaw or a ford over rail or toyota as mentioned or whatever you want.

redirecting the steering is the best way to fit engines regardless. many of the sla suspension guys go with the torquemonster headers because of that instead of simply adding a joint at the upper control arm mount allowing long tubes.

aftermarket steering parts are high dollar for a reason so that may be part of the hesitancy. i tend to cut up and repurpose oem parts readily available at the junkyard...the jeep setups are not too pricey and easy to incorporate.


this style gives alot to work with and cost effective.

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as to the boxes, i have used them all with various situations over the years. the gm and over rail ford are easiest to work with in regards to hoses and the yj type steering shaft bolting up and being simple.

generally speaking the oem situation with a tib/ttb chassis with a 302 or 350 gm works fine with comet type for fords or cam ram manifolds for gms or typical advertised swap headers.

so evaluate your situation carefully, because with factory suspension and axles moving the box is indeed tricky trying to retain the ttb/tib drag setup. though it is not rocket science either. they sell longer/shorter adjuster sleeves that simplify the process.

this problem you have may be directly due to chosen placement or other compromises to work. so you can likely solve it with a remount to make everything play nice, but it will possibly involve shortening the drive shaft which can be pricey.


one of my rbvs is equipped with a 6.x gm diesel from a humvee application...so its big block in size. this directly demands the box be relocated. initially i had a saginaw slung low and forward as typical for a big block swap, which works with the factory ttb as well...but not as the inside rail jeep box ....but i elected to use a g30 radiator after heating up the unit with my standard sbf swap radiator which required the real estate the saginaw box was using.

so i went to this fullsize 79 type ford bronco/f150 4x4 setup. works perfect. the spacers are modified ford f-150 97-2004 style standard steering box spacers to set the box in the correct position.. you need to make a insert plate of course for the inside but that is what it takes.