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302 starting


The wiring on the engine wouldn't be the problem. It would be your splicing of that wiring into the Ranger harness. Go get the duraspark stuff. I have the wiring already figured out for that, what to splice where to work in a Ranger. It is very simple, like 5 splices. Make sure to get the ignition box, distributor and the wires between the two. If the ignition switch wasn't bad before why would it go bad all of a sudden? If nothing is working wiring wise the best thing I have found to do is remove it all and start the wiring job over. You need to what wires get power at what time You need to check continuity of ground between the battery and block with a multimeter, you need power to the ignition during cranking and while in run.

Matt
 
Would you mind posting that wiring configuration Matt? I would like to double check mine with what you have.
 
alright i think i found the ignition switch wire. Its red and runs to the positive side of the coil right? Does this need to be grounded to the negative side too?
 
i didnt say you had it wrong on the motor. i meant where you spliced the harness into your truck, since rangers dont have v8's
 
alright i think i found the ignition switch wire. Its red and runs to the positive side of the coil right? Does this need to be grounded to the negative side too?

been a while but neg term goes to condender and points not ground directly.does this wire read 12v in start and run and 0 when key off
 
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thats correct stranger. You need to have the positive side of the coil hot during cranking and in run. Those wires in a Ranger are red with blue (cranking) and red with green (run). The negative side of the coil will go to the distributor/condensor and ground through the distributor body. This is why you need to make sure you have engine ground (test it with a light or multimeter to make sure).

V8-power. I will work on getting my scanner working so I can upload the diagrams. I used a service manual and drew in with marker which wires need to be removed, spliced and so on.

Matt
 
yes. The hot wire going to the positive terminal is showing power during cranking. When the key power is off it shows no power which is normal. I got the distributer/condernsor wire going to the negative side of the coil. With the key on, touching the distributer metal plate inside right by the breaker points, it shows power. I traced it from the key to the coil to the distributer as all power and working. I set the breaker point gap to .017 and its opening and closing good. The engine timing is set. Still not getting any spark. Came to the conclusion that the condensor, points, cap, rotor, and wires need to be replaced. The other thing i thought of is that the whole distributer could be grounding itself out. Do u guys think i should just invest in the HEI distributer? Im getting close now..
 
Just change the condensor and see what happens. I had this same problem hot wiring a 63 Merc's 390. No spark and everything was good, but the condensor.
 
Just change the condensor and see what happens. I had this same problem hot wiring a 63 Merc's 390. No spark and everything was good, but the condensor.

ok ill give that a shot.

Dang i spent like 3 hours out there messing with it. Made some real good progress tho and learned alot more about grounds and hot wires and blowing fuses, lol.
 
A lot of people hate electrical stuff due to their first bad experience. I'm glad to see you are learning from it. Once you get a grasp of what is going on electrically and how things work, it really isn't that bad.

Matt
 
im having troubles finding the timing pointer on this engine. Maybe its missing. Anyone got a good pic of a 302 with the pointer on it?
 
Look at my ebay auctions. "baddad457" I have a 302 pointer listed there now. It bolts onto the lower passenger side of the cover using the two lower cover bolts.
 
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The pointer would be bolted where the black thing is. Can't tell what that is you've got bolted there.
 
If you want a pointer, just send me $5 and I'll send you one, I've got three or four of these.
 

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