302 starting

[dennis461]

stay calm

Stay calm, you'll get it eventually.
1st.
find info on the engine to identify the model, there must be some way of telling which motor you have.
2nd
If it shoots flames, then it's getting a spark.
Your last post said NO spark, I think you are wrong.

did the distributer get pulled and re-installed?

http://www.302w.com/Firing-order.aspx

 

[88mudder]

we tested for spark with a timing light and also watched for an arc but nothing. It wont even shoot flames or pop anymore. we did switch the distributer but we marked it so it went in the same way the old one did. We set the timing with number 1 piston up on compression and both valves up. We pointed the rotor to 1 and used the 302 firing order.

 

[baddad457]

Breaker points are breaking good ? That may be, but if they're not adjusted damn near perfectly, they won't work worth a damn. Set the gap at .017 and try again. The mark you want the crank at is where the "0" in the middle of those timing marks on the balancer is at the pointer on the timing cover. The marks you're looking for are adjacent to the "BTC", the whole set looks like this: BTC 10 l l l l 0 l l l l 5 l l l l 10 l l l l 20 l l l l 30 ATC. Remove the #1 plug, crank the motor till you feel pressure against the finger you're going to stick into the spark plug hole, stop when you feel it, then using a breaker bar and 15/16 socket, rotate the crank till the pointer is at the 10* mark on the ATC side. When it is, loosen the distributor, and with the #1 plug out of the hole, attach the plug wire to it, ground the plug to the intake, then with the ignitoin on, slowly rotate the distributor till you see the #1 plug spark. At that point stop moving the distributor and lock it down. Reinstall the plug and fire that baby up. The timing will be dead on right using this method.

 

[88mudder]

Breaker points are breaking good ? That may be, but if they're not adjusted damn near perfectly, they won't work worth a damn. Set the gap at .017 and try again. The mark you want the crank at is where the "0" in the middle of those timing marks on the balancer is at the pointer on the timing cover. The marks you're looking for are adjacent to the "BTC", the whole set looks like this: BTC 10 l l l l 0 l l l l 5 l l l l 10 l l l l 20 l l l l 30 ATC. Remove the #1 plug, crank the motor till you feel pressure against the finger you're going to stick into the spark plug hole, stop when you feel it, then using a breaker bar and 15/16 socket, rotate the crank till the pointer is at the 10* mark on the ATC side. When it is, loosen the distributor, and with the #1 plug out of the hole, attach the plug wire to it, ground the plug to the intake, then with the ignitoin on, slowly rotate the distributor till you see the #1 plug spark. At that point stop moving the distributor and lock it down. Reinstall the plug and fire that baby up. The timing will be dead on right using this method.

we were trying to do it that way but could NOT locate a pointer to line up the 10 degree mark.

 

[baddad457]

Well you just might be missing that part. The later models use a stamped steel pointer that bolts on using the timing cover bolts. What year motor did the timing cover come from ?

 

[bottledgt]

after you get that lined out, take out points distributor and throw at a dog and dont look back

 

[88mudder]

its kinda sucks because i dont know much about the motor or the wiring harness itself. I did find a hot wire thats not hooked to anything. Its by the alternator but i dont see a spot for it. Im pretty flustered with this whole thing. Debating to rip all the electrical out and put in a harness i know info about.

 

[baddad457]

Nothing worng with a points distributor that a Pertronix I or II won't fix. Ditto for a Crane XR-1 unit.

 

[baddad457]

Nothing worng with a points distributor that a Pertronix I or II won't fix. Ditto for a Crane XR-1 unit.

 

[dennis461]

stay calm

we were trying to do it that way but could NOT locate a pointer to line up the 10 degree mark.

You don't need a pointer.
Use badd's method to get the piston to TDC, no pointer needed right!
Dirt bike timing is set with no pointer, process is similar.

Firing order must be right.
Points must be clean and open about as far as a matchbook cover.
Points must close when dist rotates.
Piston at top.
Two valves CLOSED.
Point the ROTOR to #1.
Put cap back on.
Start the engine.
It will run rough.
Turn dist till it sounds better.
Drive into swamp.



p.s. sounds like shade tree mechanics 101 class
Wish I was there, got my 68 Mustang running lately, 302, dist rusted in the block!!

 

[88mudder]

You don't need a pointer.
Use badd's method to get the piston to TDC, no pointer needed right!
Dirt bike timing is set with no pointer, process is similar.

Firing order must be right.
Points must be clean and open about as far as a matchbook cover.
Points must close when dist rotates.
Piston at top.
Two valves CLOSED.
Point the ROTOR to #1.
Put cap back on.
Start the engine.
It will run rough.
Turn dist till it sounds better.
Drive into swamp.



p.s. sounds like shade tree mechanics 101 class
Wish I was there, got my 68 Mustang running lately, 302, dist rusted in the block!!

thats exactly what me and my dad did. It wont fire at all. Spark problem now all of a sudden. Going to talk to some ppl around my area and figure it out, until then its gonna sit there.

 

[stranger]

there is key start power to points and coil right.
not just key on power.
there is a difference.all the other info should get you poping.
good luck.you will get it ,and smile when you do

 

[88mudder]

i have the battery grounded to the frame. Do i need an engine block ground instead of the frame?

 

[projectnitemare]

You need both, engine ground and chassis ground. A factory battery ground cable will bolt to the block but also have a bare spot in the middle to crimp to the frame.

Matt

 

[88mudder]

You need both, engine ground and chassis ground. A factory battery ground cable will bolt to the block but also have a bare spot in the middle to crimp to the frame.

Matt

my negative cable doesnt have a bare spot in the middle to crimp to the frame. Can i have 2 seperate negative cables, one grounded to the frame and one to the block?