3.3 morana kit turbo questions

[Gotta_gofast]

I think he'll spend more money in a high performance 3.0L crankshaft/forged pistons support the higher rpm and boost than just purchasing a 3.3L kit. Its all about the benjamins.

 

[rurouni20xx]

dont know as the nearest dyno is over 200 miles away and computer aided stuff here is almost a joke, ill prob get a wideband commander and look at it, im familiar w/ power commanders dynojet products as i work in the motorcycle/atv industry and we use fuel injection a good bit now. ill dig around and see how to size larger injectors and a good fuel pump to match, possible an adjustable fuel rail w/ large injectors, ill start looking at the import stuff, ill see how compatible fuktus (focus) stuff is as far as adjustable injectors and fuel rail mods. the rest of the computer stuff i guess i can get a chip w/ a computer uplink and adjust it going down the road w/ the wideband commander constantly mapping on my laptop. the tuning issue will be the major problem ill have, the fab and porting/engine building will be a cinch compared to the tuning since theres nobody around here that can help me. all we have around here are some newer ford trucks and chevy trucks that they just get a preprogrammed hyperchip and install it, i cant do that w/ the mods im doing. this will all be a def learning experience ill put it that way. in a few days ill see if i can get the trk to a place where i can work on it and pull the engine out and assess the damage from wear and tear over 15 yrs, then accumulate the money required to undertake such a project. in the meantime i can clean up the parts and do the porting since thats just tooling and measuring. if u have any suggestions/tips on this please by all means inform me as i have no way of knowing where to go on that cuz im in the dark for the most part on that end. im also going to the 30 forum and post a question on head porting. the reason im going 33 to answer your question is i can get a forged bottom end in the 33, nothing like that exists for the 30, and i doubt seriously the stock 30 can handle 12 to 15psi boost, most numbers i seen recommended stock was no more than 8 or 9 cuz it would melt the pistons. plus the extra 300cc's is more room for extra air/fuel to add to the powerband. i agree the stock 30 may produce more hp overall than the 33 but im looking for an extra bit of bottom end to leap off the line then the turbo will spool up and carry that leap the rest of the way over the line. thx for the input!

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Well, I'm going to be honest with you. With the added displacemen, change in cam profile, 12-15psi of boost, and everything else you will NEED to put that truck on a dyno and have the fuel curve/timing curve remapped. SCT sells a multi-position chip for the EEC-IV fuel injection system. You clearly show that you're unfamiliar with tuning fuel injection, so I highly recommend a pro and some dyno time. If you are willing to spend the money to stroke out a 3.0L to 3.3L and invest in a turbo system, you will want a professional tune. With out this, you will melt your pistons or ping your engine to destruction. Go to SCTflash.com and you'll be able to locate a dyno. I live in Wisconsin and there's 6 dyno shops within 100 miles of me.

 

[rurouni20xx]

i have personally tuned many motorcycles on a dyno myself w/ fuel recalibration tools and ignition mods as well as ignition kill shifters. you can do it w/o a dyno but i agree it is easier/better on a dyno. the nearest dyno according to that site (only one) is over 100 miles from here and has no dyno in house. hence the reason i was trying to do this myself, to replicate a dyno however get to rolling speed at 15 mph in 4th gear and go from idle (rolling) to redline to record your sample. read your sample and adjust fuel ratio to lambda (13.7:1) process works well if a dyno is unavailable. on a turbo engine the a/f ratio may need to be dif i have to look it up. done it many times w/ motorcycles and atvs. wideband commanders and a computer logger to record the a/f ratio across the board are excellent for tuning purposes. id rather go to a dyno but if i cant find one thats prob what ill end up doing.

 

[turbo cat]

under boost you want the AFRs to be around 11:1 - 12:1. Get a god wideband to start with. The AEM Uego are known to be a good unit and retail around 200-300not bad. I would start out slow like start witha few lbs of boost to get the feel of the boosted 3.0 then add boost and tune as necesary. WHy not turbo the stock 3.0 first (if its running?) and use the oem 3.0 as a learning platform before you blow all your cash on a motor. Keep theboost under 10 psi and tune it well. if it breaks its time for an upgrade. you can be suprised how much a stock motor on mild boost with even cast pistons can take it the setup/tune is built up correctly. As it is with a bad tune you can still break a forged motor easily. Forged dosent mean bullet proof against detonation. mail order chips will not work as they can mail you a correct tune without your truck in front of them on the dyno. You need it dyno tuned or a tunable programmer/piggy back/or stand alone.

you already stated you dont even have the funds for a buildup. Build a kit have some fun. WHy wait around witha torn apart 3.0 that you don't have the cash to build. If I did that I would never be up and running.

 

[rurouni20xx]

the oil pump in the stock engine went out at 287600 miles, ran on 3 cylinders for 6 miles home, i dont think it can handle a turbo currently unless i want to blow the skirts thru the block and really skrew the block. ive seen aems products they make good adjustable injectors/fuel rails/pressure regulators didnt know they had an o2 readout tool. then again if you make a standalone fuel management system i guess a sniffer would be easy then. any sugestions on timing adjustments? i have the eec4 w/ distributor cap im not sure what its set at, do i need to put it at a certain place to start and does it advance on its own? also i can imagine i need to upgrade from the factory autolite platinums, any suggestions on this? i know the plugs need to be colder but do i need a special type of plug for the boost? dont want a plug w/ weak porcelain that will chip and put porcelain in my rings... *cough* champion.... and one more things about the ignition, are there upgradeable ignitions for this engine and are they required? i.e.: msd ignition caps/coils plug wires? if so i may consider a platinum 4 plug, but i wont run them w/o the upgraded ignition as they will cause misfiring from lack of voltage on stock ignitions. been there done that and burned the shirt.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

With what you plan on doing to that little 6er, look into a stand alone system. Megasquirt is a great start... if you know what you're doing. If you just "experiment" with it, you'll end up doing another 3.3L build and trying it again. There are several boost controllers designed to retard the ignition based on boost.

 

[rurouni20xx]

ill look into it, but i still need to know if i need to run an upgraded spark level to burn it all, like an accel ignition system that runs 45k volts or just stick to stock spark levels? looked at the megasquirt efi controller, is there something else that can be used that will run on a winxp system and use usb hookups?

 

[Gotta_gofast]

When you increase the cylinder pressure by means of forced induction or higher compression, the increased cylinder pressure results in greater resistance. In order for the electrons to jump the gap of the sparkplug, they need to overcome this resistance. So when we increase cylinder pressure, we must increase the ignition's voltage so that the electrons can make their journey to ground.

 

[Davis]

The stock ford ignition is pretty adequate, especially if you have the DIS system. My ignition is an all stock distriutor system except for an MSD blaster coil and it has no problems with the cylinder pressure associated with 27# on a mild cam, mild ported 2.3. I just have to keep the gap around .028-.030 instead of .045.

 

[rurouni20xx]

so if i step up to an accel coil system (cap rotor coil and silicone plug wires) that are rated 45k volts and run a lil colder plugs it will be optimal? any recommendations on spark plug brands and if i should stick to single electrode or run multiple electrodes? (bosch platinum 4 or an iridium tip single, ngk or something similar?)

 

[Davis]

I've heard (I don't have any proof) that the only coil worth upgrading to is the MSD, since the others aren't really any better than stock, just prettier. Dunno tho.

Most guys with the 2.3t swear by Motorcraft ignition parts, and I'm with them. Just go with the Motorcraft Copper plugs. I used to run NGK Iridiums. No complaints there, coppers are just cheaper and more accessible, and I didn't notice a performance difference. I'd never go with platinums unless they were OEM.

 

[turbo cat]

copper cored plugs

 

[rurouni20xx]

my trk called for autolite platinums thats why i ran those, and a lot of fellow ford owners around here said autolite or nothing, but i fig it was due to voltage issues. i looked into msd ignitions and im not really sure how their units bolt up, the accel components looked stock, and carried 40k volts, stock is 25k if im not mistaken. the msd hits 40k volts as well so i was going to try the accel for the money and simplicity of installation, just wanted to see what others thought. if its a reliability/durability issue than id try the msd. too bad there isnt an ignition systems section of the forum i can try to ask around in. ill repost my question in the 3.0 forum in the meantime.

 

[turbo cat]

get rid of the platinums. Platinums are not meant for performance applications. Platinum tipped plugs have longer life due to less errosion however copper plugs conduct better just have a shorter life. They are also cheaper. Platinums are designed so people don't have to change the plugs as often. I use champion copper cored plugs and have had no issues with my boosted 4.0 that i drive everyday. I will not touch platinums, bosch or splitfire plugs. I vote champions or NGK copper cored plugs or denso iridium if you have 10$ to spend on a single plug (waste of money if your not rich)

Also MSD sucks stay away from there china built products. Google msd problems and Im sure you will find a handful;l of issues with MSD equiptment failure.