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3.0L Camshaft Position Sensor & Syncronizer


When you line up TDC number one up are you lining up the missing tooth on the ring or the tdc etching?
does anyone know if the timing notch (right next to the crankshaft position sensor) should point to the harmonic balancer at 0 degrees or 10 degrees?
Insufficient explanation of finding the TDC is a problem with this thread. See multiple posts in another thread starting from #32:
and ends with post #39:

In short, you don't need special tool to align the synchronizer. The technique in part agrees with these 2 replies of this thread: #9 by Stevorocks and #55 by Fordblue213.
 
Last edited:
I'm guessing the one I just removed from one engine and put in another has 230,000 miles on it and I didnt see any signs of wear. Thats why i'm thinking it's not a part problem but an oil flow problem. Is there certain years that are locking up? Has anyone who changes their oil ever 3000 had one go bad? How can an oiled bushing rust? Either there is water in the oil or there is lack of oil (possibly a restriction), or the part has an oil distribution problem.

Years back when my truck was my daily driver I changed the oil every 3 and had the check engine light come on, zero symptoms but the code was for the camshaft positioning sensor… I can honestly say I can’t remember the details just that it was definitely that sensor and yes I definitely changed the oil every 3k. Want to say my truck had probably 100k on it at the time give or take…
 
As this seems to be the synchro thread. I am having a hard time removing the synchro once the 10mm bracket bolt is removed. Anybody else experience this? Do i need to twist as I pull up? I read the tech page but it doesn't mention this. The top of the synchro is rather mangled so I'm not sure if that plays into it.

Thanks in advance.
 
I'm putting a new one in as the truck I just bought hit 101k. 01 3.0. Sensor as well, both Motorcraft
 
This is the third one I have done. Just take pictures of it before you pull it out. When inserting the new one, it will rotate on the gear slightly. So lets say the small "finger" is at 8 on a clock, put it around 6, then when you install it, it should be very close to the 8 position. It took me 2 tries this time and the truck is running great now.
 
My 98 3.0 just turned 203,000. Still has the original internal stuff, only changed the sensor once. And while I used to change the oil every 3000, I've been doing 10,000 the last few years. I use only full synthetic oil. Any of you know that Castrol recently came out with a new oil that they claim is good for 25,000 miles?

Short story. In 2009, my sister asked to borrow the Ranger for a year. Had around 89,000 miles and a recent oil change using Mobil One. Four years later, I finally got it back. Had north of 130,000 miles and still had the oil I had put in it over 40,000 miles and four years ago. Didn't cause any harm whatsoever. Doesn't burn ay oil, only has a small oil pan drip. If I keep the oil level half way in the hash area, it doesn't drip at all. So that's what I do.

As for the internal synchronizer thingamabob, every so often, when I think about it, I take the sensor off, squirt some oil down inside the thing, put the sensor back on, and motor on. Seems to work just fine.
 

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