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3.0L Block Identification


mcritch

New Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
4
Transmission
Automatic
Hi,

I have a 3.0L engine in my 2002 Ranger that is seized. The oil pressure guage had been acting up (I thought) for the past year of so. I would be driving around town or stopped at a light and the guage needle would start flicking wildly, drop to 0 and then stabalize. I thought it was either a sensor or the guage. Anyway, towing a trailer last weekend, about 2000 lbs, and this happened again. I watched it for a little and it dropped to 0 again. This time it didn't come back up,,,,,,,,,,,,,, then the engine stopped. Seized. SH$#%$#%# and a bunch of other things and I was stuck.

Anyway, I need to identify the Block I have so I can line up a Long-block from a shop. Where do I find the number of the block on this engine?

Thanks.
Munden :bawling::annoyed:
 
Its probably stamped on the side of the block somewhere. If you know exactly what he needs to know about the block and give me your vin I might be able to get it from Ford's system.
 
The machine shop here has some complete, rebuilt, 3.0L engines there and if they knew the block number they could tell if they have one to match mine.

My VIN is: 1FTYR44U32TA50955

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.

Munden
 
It didn't have a block ID like I was hoping. Here is what it did give me:

VEHICLE DESCRIPTION
2002 RANGER BODY STYLE
SUPERCAB 4 DOOR 4X2 ENGINE
3.0L V6
TRANSMISSION
5 SPD AUTO - 5R44/55E AXLE CODE
R7 ENGINE CALIBRATION
2R31B30A
PAINT COLOR
EBONY SOLID C/C RADIO
ELETR AM/FM STRO/DISC/CLK GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT
4940 LB. GVW
AXLE RATIO
4.10 FINAL DRIVE RATIO WHEEL SIZE
7X15 5 SPK MACHINED ALU WHLS FRONT TIRE
P235/75R15SL S/BLT OWL A-T

The engine calibration number is a software version, not a physical configuration

What I was able to find as far as block ID tho is this. In 2002 Ford changed the block and added a second X rib on the passenger side. If you look through the splash shield at the outside of the block and see 2 X's cast into the side of it then your ID number should be 2F1E. (TRS tech library) http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0-build.html
 
Thanks for that info.

I had previously read that tech article. I will look at the block tonight to have a look.

On another note, I plan to remove the engine this weekend. Are there any special tools that will be required for this?

Also, the oil pump went to cause this, what do you think the chances are that the cylinders/pistons are ok? I am hoping the only thing that got damaged is the crank/bearings.

Munden.:sad:
 
For tools: you will likely needs a spring-clamp release for the fuel lines, and of course an engine hoist, beyond that you shouldn't need anything special.

For the engine: I wouldn't count on it. Oil pressure is what gives the oil the pressure to get up and lube the upper crank case. In almost every case I've seen of a blown pump/seized engine there was piston and cylinder damage. There may also be valve train damage to worry about.
 
:bawling: I was afraid of that.

One really basic comment I would have in that respect is, with all the electronics/computer control etc that is in the vehicles, it would be very easy to put in a routine that tells the machine to shutdown if it detects low oil pressure at a predetermined level. This would save much grief I would think.

Thanks for your help.

Munden.:icon_thumby:
 
most of them are starting to do something along those lines now. it retards timing and reduces engine power, even shuts down cylinders when she starts to get too hot, they should do something for oil pressure too.
 

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