3.0 standalone

[sceep]

I have a 2000 xlt 4x4 5 speed that i'll be using for a new project.

cab is removed, bed is removed.

i dont need any gauges.

what do i NEED to remove from the cab, to plug back into the main harness, to make this thing run. all harness from the frame down stayed with the frame. ABS, Fuel EVAP, tail lights, etc.

ecu stayed with the frame. just worried about interior stuff that the OBD2 may have to have.

this chassis will be getting a '59 body put on it, so there is no obdanything in it. i need this motor to run standalone.

any help would be appreciated.

thanks

 

[bobbywalter]

basically put power to the diode in the pdb and bump the starter.

this assumes its not pats equipped.

if it is pats equipped does it still have the keys and did it run fine before you shitcanned the body? if you dont you will want to find a non pats pcm or send yours in and have it flashed...

this is the hot rod thing right?

 

[sceep]

i was hoping you'd chime in Bobby. Justin raves about your work.

help with some terms here please. PDB? PATS (passive anti-theft system?)

it does have an alarm on it but i believe it is aftermarket. i do have one key (and can get the others) and yes i drove it home.

I still have the cab, been saving it until i knew what all i needed to keep.

and yes.. this is for the wagon project.

thanks.

 

[sceep]

power distribution block. duh.

ok i didnt keep that with the frame. will rip it out.

 

[bobbywalter]

i am oversimplifying this to a degree...


but the eec system is "on" wired through a diode with the pdb on most of these past 92, and as that on a older eec4 truck you can generally unhook the plug right from the firewall and simply bypass the dashboard and key functions by running power with a jumper from the battery to the lil radio capacitor deal at the ignition module or powering through the diode like mentioned earlier.

when i do this....with one wire and a quarter to jump the solonoid to start someones donor car.... the look is priceless. this simple breakdown of just how stand alone the older systems are really drops the fear factor...

you see so many guys with swap disasters that say efi is harder because they did not take the time to define the goals first.... or worse, and typical...assclowns who never swapped anything into anything say a carb is much easier, its just fawking sickening...

like i said i am over simplifying the situation, because any setup can have oversights that cause drivability issues...



as described going through the pdb like mentioned in my first post,
it wont be right as the o2 heaters generally dont work as they can be powered on a seperate key on circuit, figuring that out is easy though...simply put key on power to each o2 heater wire.... and on many systems you will have to power the fuel pump separately when shitcanning the firewall plug altogether....bypass powering the fuel pump is also easy for the average guy to figure out.. ....

and working with it from there makes it easier.


what exactly are you working with? if it is pats equipped the easy way is to retain the firewall as much as possible and cab wiring that is part of it. pretty much leave the thing in tact from firewall to radiator. keep all the wiring.

if you want to shitcan the oem steering column/wiring and you have pats then you have to decide which way to go, turning off the pats imo is the best way to go and you can eliminate some of the extra emmision components to streamline the powertrain controls. cut it down to two o2 sensors and the air meter and ignition sensors.

i would have to look at a 2000 specifically to figure out the best suggestions....or if its best just to send it to me for a re work...if i have time tomorrow i will look at a 2000 setup and get an idea.

 

[bobbywalter]

before anybody claims some technicality...the above is assuming.

hot rod/race type setup with no creature comforts--hence the simplification statement

 

[sceep]

hot rod/race type setup with no creature comforts--hence the simplification statement

^this. I'll slap in mechanical oil pressure and temp gaugues. maybe a tach.

i am oversimplifying this to a degree...


but the eec system is "on" wired through a diode with the pdb on most of these past 92, and as that on a older eec4 truck you can generally unhook the plug right from the firewall and simply bypass the dashboard and key functions by running power with a jumper from the battery to the lil radio capacitor deal at the ignition module or powering through the diode like mentioned earlier.

when i do this....with one wire and a quarter to jump the solonoid to start someones donor car.... the look is priceless. this simple breakdown of just how stand alone the older systems are really drops the fear factor...

you see so many guys with swap disasters that say efi is harder because they did not take the time to define the goals first.... or worse, and typical...assclowns who never swapped anything into anything say a carb is much easier, its just fawking sickening...

like i said i am over simplifying the situation, because any setup can have oversights that cause drivability issues...

as described going through the pdb like mentioned in my first post,
it wont be right as the o2 heaters generally dont work as they can be powered on a seperate key on circuit, figuring that out is easy though...simply put key on power to each o2 heater wire.... and on many systems you will have to power the fuel pump separately when shitcanning the firewall plug altogether....bypass powering the fuel pump is also easy for the average guy to figure out.. ....

and working with it from there makes it easier.

what exactly are you working with? if it is pats equipped the easy way is to retain the firewall as much as possible and cab wiring that is part of it. pretty much leave the thing in tact from firewall to radiator. keep all the wiring.

if you want to shitcan the oem steering column/wiring and you have pats then you have to decide which way to go, turning off the pats imo is the best way to go and you can eliminate some of the extra emmision components to streamline the powertrain controls. cut it down to two o2 sensors and the air meter and ignition sensors.

i would have to look at a 2000 specifically to figure out the best suggestions....or if its best just to send it to me for a re work...if i have time tomorrow i will look at a 2000 setup and get an idea.

I'm no stranger to efi swaps. have done (3) 5.0's into jeeps/broncos/buggies and a jeep 5.2 into a cj-7. but all were OBD1 hence my questions here.

What you are describing above is EXACTLY like the 5.2 swap. im excited at what im hearing because it shold be a cakewalk (assuming you are right. lol)

what im confused about is the PATS. what is it? how do i know if i have it? Is there any reason i would want to keep it? (this thing sounds like an STD)

I dont need or want the OEM column or key.

i will most likely be shitcanning the ABS system, is this going to cause me any troubles?

likely wont be working with the OEM cooling system (but possibly if the radiator will fit into the new grill.)

will keep the fuel system to not complicate things any more.

thanks for all your help.

Here's what im building. the draggin wagon rod. slam the ranger chassis on the ground. and body swap this onto it. this is to be a CHEAP project. so far i am into it $0.00 and have procured the running chassis, body, front drop beam axle, tires, wheels.

 

[stmitch]

PATS is basically Ford's anti theft setup. If you've got PATS, there's a chip in the key, and only that key (or duplicates that are programmed for your truck) will start the motor.

 

[joecool85]

Keep us posted, sounds badass. I want to use a 3.0 for a hot rod as well, I was thinking something really light like a Model T or duece coupe.

 

[bobbywalter]

well i didnt gtet a chance to look at a 2k today...so your screwed for a week or so as i am out of free time.


pretty much like the 5.2 swap but no asd worries with the ford stuff. compared to the eec4 5.0 its potentially easier for sure depending on needs from the system.

passive anti theft system is what the pats acronym stands for.

early systems i thought were by passable, but i dont remember for sure.

anything after 97 will likely have the pcm involved. the expense of turning all of the pats/emmissions off and minimizing the processor requirements may be money well spent.

pats has the little blinky light on the dash and the key is marked with some sort of writing....lil fat bastard key.

if you indeed have pats the cheapest solution is a non pats pcm unless one of your home boys has a tuner that will allow them to dump it for ya.

 

[sceep]

ok, yes its pats. blinky light goofy key and all.

so it needs to get dumped. i have good friends at the ford stealership so a hookup on a pcm is easy, as may be a tuner.

thanks for all your help.

 

[sceep]

boby thanks for your help but cease and desist.

i;ve decided to just sell this motor and go a different route.

Thank you.

 

[joecool85]

boby thanks for your help but cease and desist.

i;ve decided to just sell this motor and go a different route.

Thank you.

Bummer. Guess I'll still need to build a 3.0 rod

 

[sceep]

buy my chassis and have at it!!!