3.0 sho in 4x4 99 ranger

[98SHOanger]

Yeah I didn't have ac or choose controls anyways but still using ac as an idle pully the motor is stand alone which includes cooling fan .. actually way easier to energized the system than you would think

 

[98SHOanger]

Do you have the integrated control relay as well because it's what truly makes it easy to wire

 

[14TR]

I have the entire car with regard to the 3.2. So all harnesses, modules etc. so I assume you are referring to the CCRM?

 

[98SHOanger]

Yes use fuse 3 and 4 in power distribution box and fuze 11 from the ignition pink and black out of ccrm is the fuel pump power line

 

[98SHOanger]

there is also a sigle grey/orange is for the tach. Red/ white for temp and white/red for oil pressure fuel pump can be original but needs to be ran off of pin 5 pink/black out of ccrm

 

[14TR]

Perfect! Thanks for all the help.

 

[14TR]

Had a few hours in the garage last night. Was able to yank the Vulcan out. What a pain! Fairly straightforward but I had a hell of a time with the two 15mm bolts that run from the block back into the bell housing for some reason they seemed corroded in while all the other bell housing bolts came out reasonably easy. Plus the driver side one permits very little access even with the starter out and the exhaust crossover out of the way. So trying to apply a lot of torque in such a confined space was nearly impossible, but it eventually broke loose.

I had contemplated drilling out the spot welds for the core support as that would also facilitate mocking of the SHO engine easier since I’m sure it’ll have to go in and out a few times. But at this point I feel I should be ok leaving it in.

 

[14TR]

I have a design made up for the 4R44E controller I’m going to use. It utilizes an arduino and relay board to be able to sequentially shift the solenoids that control the trans from the factory. I’ll have to design or rob a paddle shift type setup from another vehicle, but while I was going over the schematics, I had a crazy thought. I will eventually be using a Megasquirt to run the engine, but initially I’ll be using the ECU out of the 3.2 SHO parts car I bought, and I don’t see why I can’t attempt to have the ECU shift the ranger trans as all the wiring is essentially the same. I’m not sure on the shift tuning utilized in the stock EEC for the 93 SHO, but I might give it a shot. If it doesn’t work I have the standalone “manual” controller I designed.

 

[bhgl]

Please do report back on your success with the transmission computer, that's been one of my biggest worries when considering this swap at all.

If the original computer can effectively shift the 4R44e without a ton of intervention that'd go a long way to actually putting together some sort of OEM type build.

Keep up the great work!

 

[14TR]

Thanks! Obviously it’s just theoretical at this point, but I really can’t see why it wouldn’t work. The AX4S and the 4R44e have the same type of solenoid inputs, TCC input, line pressure input, etc. the ECU doesn’t know whether its sending hat signal to the AX4S or the 4R44 so won’t know for sure until I try it. I would like to find a different converter more suited to the RPM range of the SHO but for the time being it should work for testing purposes, I have to check the bolt pattern on the converter to flex plate though

 

[14TR]

Have the SHO and Vulcan side by side. Truly is a significant size difference when they are right next to each other. Even with the plenum off the SHO it’s still massive. Reminds me of my days of messing with the 4.6 cobra motors when I used to play around with mustangs a lot. Just a little shorter lol. Ordered a full intake gasket set. Had some concerns as Apparently my buddy had this engine in his shop under the area where his drill press was. He had a thick tarp over the engine but it must have had tears in it. There was a LOT of metal shavings and metal dust all over the intake. I vacuumed it up as best as I could before pulling the plenum off, lest I risk some falling in the intake ports! I’m trying to not pull the heads if I don’t have to, as the whole point of this project is keeping it cheap (something I tend to forget when I get going like this). I’ll bore scope too when we get a little further along as added assurance.

 

[98SHOanger]

right on 14tr. glad that your prodject is moving along if your going to rotate the intake plenum the fuel rail will need to be rotated as well the 3.0 dose not have the egr drilled so you can mill the extra aluminum to clearance the timing belt and the rubber boot will need shaved as well

 

[98SHOanger]

you will also have to reroute some of the wiring to connect the tps and the dis when i did this inonly had to lengthen about 4 or 5 wires hope to see your ride up and running soon.

 

[14TR]

you will also have to reroute some of the wiring to connect the tps and the dis when i did this inonly had to lengthen about 4 or 5 wires hope to see your ride up and running soon.

Thanks for tips! I actually am leaving the intake in stock orientation. For the racing we do we hit a lot of mud and water holes, so it’s usually a long snorkel coming around 180 degrees to put the filter in the cab anyway. The Factory setup is helping me to skip that haha

 

[14TR]

Pulled the trans and transfer case temporarily as I’m not really sure what I have to do with it positionally, so it’s easier to remove it and get the engine hanging in space, but roughly where I want it. In my case that means low and the deep part of the sump behind the axle tube.