3.0 Modifications

[TMarsh04]

I found this website listing a large number of modifications made to a once stock 3.0L. He has some sort of rating system for each part added to the engine and other parts of the truck, but there are no numbers. He doesn't list the power increase from any of the engine mods.

Anyway, I've been considering a few of the mods he has listed. Which of them do you think would give me the most power for the least cash? I really wanna start beefing up the engine in my truck, especially with the 3 inch PA body lift and new tires in the mail. Check out the sight, especially if you're planning some mods on a 3.0 as well. And let me know where to start! Thanks, guys! And girl/s (don't wanna be sexist! Heh!)

Here's the link:
http://rogueperformance.com/RogueRanger.html


.

 

[MAKG]

Given that this guy has given a "good" rating to the "Fuel Master," which is a fuel line magnet and obvious scam, I would be very wary about his ratings.

A "mild increase" from a magnet? Credibility -> 0.

He also claims to be "happy" with an IAT resistor 180 deg thermostat and phenolic spacer, and "extremely happy" with a pretty alternator....

At least he got the Tornado right.

 

[TMarsh04]

I did notice a few of those things myself. But do you know if any of the mods actually do offer significant power gains?

 

[ZMan]

He also claims to be "happy" with an IAT resistor 180 deg thermostat and phenolic spacer, and "extremely happy" with a pretty alternator....

I wouldn't judge him based on that. Those things DO work. Phenolic spacer does keep your upper intake temperature WAY down, I'm talking more than 20* cooler, I've actually felt it and compared to one without. The resistor trick does make a difference, he only did it at the track though for obvious reasons.

Whats wrong with having a good looking alternator? Some people like their engine bays to look good, big whoop.

Dropping 2 full seconds off of a 3.0ls 1/4" time with nothing but simple/cheap bolt ons is not something to sneeze at. I went to a meet at a dragstip a couple years ago, one guy was running a 15.9 quarter mile with a IAT resistor, Phenolic spacer, 3.73 l/s, short Drag radials on 15" wheels, underdrive pulley, advanced timing, jet chip, and 93 octane.

The fuel saver, I don't know don't have first hand experience with it. Do you?

This guy knows what hes talking about, he learns from experience, and has experimented a lot with 3.0l performance. As you probably saw he adapted a Eaton M62 to his 3.0l, guy really knows his stuff.

 

[MAKG]

The FTC during the Bush Administration has been relatively lax enforcing anti-fraud laws, but they got the fuel saver one: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2004/11/fuelsaver.shtm

It's a scam. Claims of ANY benefits whatsoever are highly improbable. And a little critical reasoning will expose it without the need to give those scam artists money.

As for the 20 deg difference, with a phenolic spacer, maybe at idle. At WOT, read your IAT on your stock engine, and you'll find it's already quite close to ambient.

"Experience" sometimes lies, especially with unspecified testing and (intentionally?) vague results. Some of his mods probably work very well, especially lots of improvement from a properly done supercharger. But some of the other claims on there don't pass the sniff test.

Which means you have learned nothing from his list except perhaps a list of possible mods.

This is assuming it's all honest. He apparently sells this stuff, so maybe or maybe not.

 

[TMarsh04]

I see what you're saying and I'm no longer looking at his list to learn anything. I guess now I am only asking you all to look at the list and tell me which of the mods, if any, WILL give my truck some more power. I realize some of the stuff is horse s#!@, but some of them have got to make some kind of a difference. I mean modding a GM S/C and slapping it on a 3.0, I know that's gonna make a difference! Maybe it'll blow it up, but that's a hell of a difference!!!

Has anyone here tried any of these things and gotten positive results? I guess that's more the answer I am looking for. Or maybe tried something he hasn't and gotten good results? I just want some more power....

 

[MAKG]

Well, the stuff that works tends to be VERY expensive (like the supercharger). And some kind of goal statement would be helpful -- I doubt you really want "more power," as that means high RPM, wide open throttle most of the time. Most people don't drive on the street that way. If this isn't going to be used on the street, nitrous oxide is very effective at breaking drivetrain parts.

If you just want it to accelerate faster, 3.0Ls especially like to be revved, so I'd redirect your attention to differential gearing. If dead-stop behavior isn't that important compared to highway speed behavior, a cheaper alternative is delaying transmission shift points.

 

[TMarsh04]

Honestly, I drive the piss out of my truck on or off the road. I do want to accelerate faster, but I also want to avoid downshifts to make it up slopes. And I'd rather add a little power to make it up those hills than re-gear and be running higher rpm's all the time. Plus, I have no idea what all goes into swapping diff gears. Never done it.

 

[MAKG]

If you want to avoid downshifting (I really don't understand that, but it's a common complaint), you need more torque. More power may or may not help, and in some cases can hurt substantially You're not running anywhere near peak power or downshifting wouldn't bother you. You can do any even slightly reasonable highway speed in 3rd gear on a 5 speed with any stock gearset.

By far the most cost effective route per foot-lb is downshifting. A very, very distant second is gearing. Followed by selling the engine (or just the whole truck) and getting a bigger one.

Setting up a rear end is a detail-oriented procedure, and there are good guides around for it. Having a shop do it on a rear end you deliver separated from the vehicle shouldn't cost too much more than $100. You can barely buy top end gaskets for that, for engine work.

Frankly, needing to downshift the vehicle on hills is a reasonable balance between power and economy. It means you can drive the truck with a 3 liter engine instead of a 450 CID big block V8 (that's around 6.5L). And you get mileage in the mid-20s instead of single digits.

 

[Ranger44]

Don't be afraid to downshift. The 3.0 loves 3,000 rpm and over.

 

[TMarsh04]

Well I frequently drive over Mt. Hood and I like to do about 65-70 most of the way, but to maintain those speeds I have to drop to 3rd and run up to 4,000 rpms. My truck sure sounds good going over the pass, but climbing those hills like that seems like it's going to do some damage to the 3.0 over time. There aren't any simple bolt ons that would maybe allow for 4th gear over the pass? Or do you think I'll just have to take it a little slower from now on?

 

[MAKG]

Your 3.0L can run 4000 RPM continuously for hundreds of thousands of miles (with breaks for oil changes and other scheduled maintenance). It was designed to do this. You aren't even close to the redline.

 

[TMarsh04]

Well thanks for tearing that site apart for me! At least I don't gotta worry about wasting any money now. Guess I'll just wait until I get a new rig and if the Ranger is still in decent shape I'll swap in a 5.0, add more lift, maybe a solid axle and make it my weekend warrior.

 

[Ranger44]

Thats right the 3.0 can turn high rpm's like no other. That's where it's power lies. It's a high rpm engine by design.

 

[ZMan]

Theres a little mod that has been discussed on here a few times. Its not really that much of a power adder, but its worth the 15 minutes of time. Cut the center post out of your MAF housing below where the sensor mounts. When I shift into fourth the wall it hits isn't quite as bad, I noticed this especially on a particular road I drive on where it is a decent uphill grade right up untill the point I hit 55mph.

edit..and high RPMS? My rev limiter kicks in at 4800rpm