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3.0 Factory Oil Pressure Gauge Flakes Out


TomB1269

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
304
City
Capital District NY
Vehicle Year
2002, 2005, & 2
Transmission
Automatic
It seems as if after several hours (2 or more) on the road at high speed / high Rpm (2700 or higher) that when I come to a stop the oil pressure gauge flickers. I have changed the syncro shaft previously. The oil has about 2000 miles on it (it has done it with less). If I shut down the engine most on the time it stops (or near quits). I do not notice any other issue. I consume no oil, have no water in the system, nothing. It is as if my oil thins and the pressure drops just enough to activate the sensor. The truck only has 97K, and I have been using motorcraft synthic blend 5-20 up until this summer when I moved. Now I go to jiffy lube (apartment life- ugh), however the first ocurrance was on motorcraft. The change was the truck was now being driven 130 mile round trip to work at 55 plus. But it only happens after 1:45 to 2 hours constant driving..........Thoughts anyone?:dunno:
 
In case you didn't know the oil pressure gage is a "dummy" gage. It goes up to the normal area as long as there is between 5-8psi. If there is not, it goes to the home position. It sounds like your sender is bad. May try changing it out. They are relatively cheap and simple to replace. While you are at it you might consiter installing a real oil pressure gage (electric, not mechanical) that way you can monitor that actual oil pressure and be ready if the s**t hits the fan ala cam syncro failure.
 
if i was gonna put in an additional guage i would put a mechanical not Electrical, electrical just gives you another sender to go bad.
Kind of an opinion thing cuz there are downfalls to both.
Beef
 
In case you didn't know the oil pressure gage is a "dummy" gage. It goes up to the normal area as long as there is between 5-8psi. If there is not, it goes to the home position. It sounds like your sender is bad. May try changing it out. They are relatively cheap and simple to replace. While you are at it you might consiter installing a real oil pressure gage (electric, not mechanical) that way you can monitor that actual oil pressure and be ready if the s**t hits the fan ala cam syncro failure.


Why would you install another electrical guage , the one from the factory is an electrical and i do not find electronic ones to be very dependant , at least the mechanical ones give you a accurate reading , because the actual pressure causes the needle to move , as for the factory being a ''dummy'' gauge , never heard that , since it uses a piezoelectric crystal to generate voltage , i have seen the guage read below and over normal , which it would not do under your theory
 
The are indeed a 'dummy' gauge. They only need to see 7psi to get it go up into the Normal range, they are in no way an actual measure of oil pressure.
 
The are indeed a 'dummy' gauge. They only need to see 7psi to get it go up into the Normal range, they are in no way an actual measure of oil pressure.

well i do not doubt it , i just has never hear that before , that is why i am installing a mechanical guage and making it so that my factory guage always reads normal
 
:icon_thumby:

Exactly, at least then you know whats actually going on.
 
yup , i trust a mechanical guage way more , cept in my 72 chebby , for some reason the oil pressure guage thinks it is a tach
 
oil pressure should fluctuate with RPM, thats why ford dumbed down its oil pressure gauges. too many complaints of fluctuation pressure or low pressure at idle.
 
well i know that , but when i star off it is way low , and wehn i get to my shift point ( it is a 3 speed ) it looks on the pressure guage that it has about peak limit , there aint much guage left for it to go up , then it drops down to almost nothing again
 
old v-8s do that for some reason. we had a pontiac hurse at the napa i worked at with a 500-some-cubic-inch big block (fresh rebuild) that would just barely lift the needle off the peg at idle, but pushed about 80PSI near 7 grand.

but even my blue escort varies from about 15PSI at idle to 60 at speed. the ranger is one of the most steady ive seen at about 30 at idle and 35 at cruise.
 
yea , that 72 just scared the shit out of me the first time i drove it and it di that , but it is a fun little truck , she is my project for senior year in college , 383 stroker with a 3 speed , and i am gonna change the gears , right now it tops out at about 70 , she needs a clutch and some brake work , it is really freaky when you lock all 4 wheels at 40 mph trying to stop for a train and it starts to slide toward the track , smokin and screamin
 
cept in my 72 chebby , for some reason the oil pressure guage thinks it is a tach
Yeah those chevys..............They always were a little confused:icon_rofl:
 
The reason I prefer an electrical over a mechanical is so you don't have to run hot, pressurized oil into your passenger compartment. I guess it's a preference thing . . to each his own.
 
The reason I prefer an electrical over a mechanical is so you don't have to run hot, pressurized oil into your passenger compartment. I guess it's a preference thing . . to each his own.

ok , that does make sense to me , i just dont under stand why you would add anothe electrical switch that could possibly read innacurate , but i get where you are coming from with the mecanical thing , as you said , to each his own
 

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