3.0 Camshaft Synchronizer

[jamesnelson101]

I just replaced my synchronizer to smooth out a rough idle problem I was having. It started up and runs really good and has more power so I am pretty sure that I did everything right. My question is that once you have it stabbed on the right tooth does it matter where the body is pointing? You can rotate it from side to side like an old distributor but I didn't notice that it made any difference. I have looked over everything I can and anytime the synchronizer is mentioned its always in regards to stabbing it in correctly and doesn't mention rotation from side to side. I realize that could be a good indication of the answer to my question but not sure. Thanks!

 

[Uncle Gump]

There is a tool to set alignment.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yeah, there is a tool to set alignment on that. A new synchronizer should come with one. If you don’t have one, set the little tab centered in the window for the sensor and tighten it down there and that will be close until you can get a tool. I bought a set of alignment tools awhile back, I’d have to look up the details. The new synchronizer assembly I bought for my green Ranger came with a tool, but I went with a Duralast Gold assembly from Autozone because it came with everything new; synchronizer, sensor and tool.

 

[pjtoledo]

after stabbing the tab should be centered at the window.

the tab is locked to the camshaft, so moving the housing alters timing, sort of.
the PCM will use sensors to put timing where it needs to be, within limits.
if the housing is cranked way the hell out the PCM won't be able to compensate.

the important part is the tab needs centered in the window with # 1 at top dead center.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

after stabbing the tab should be centered at the window.

the tab is locked to the camshaft, so moving the housing alters timing, sort of.
the PCM will use sensors to put timing where it needs to be, within limits.
if the housing is cranked way the hell out the PCM won't be able to compensate.

the important part is the tab needs centered in the window with # 1 at top dead center.

Yeah, I forgot to mention, has to be done with #1 cylinder at TDC, although I have manually spun the motor over until the tool lines up and swapped them that way too.

 

[Summers22]

I have replaced them without the tool or TDC and never had a problem.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I have replaced them without the tool or TDC and never had a problem.

I’ve done it without doing TDC, but I’ve always rotated the motor until it lines up with the alignment tool before pulling the old and dropping in the new. The computer might not appreciate if it’s not properly set… might kick it into limp mode or something if it thinks the sensor is bad, I don’t think I’d trust being indiscriminate on it.

 

[Summers22]

Is there a comprehensive write-up anyone could point me towards?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Is there a comprehensive write-up anyone could point me towards?

Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) / 3.0L, 4.0L & 5.0L - The Ranger Station

Special Service Tools Required: Description Tool Number Syncro Positioning Tool – 3.0L, 4.0L T95T-12200-A Syncro Positioning Tool – 5.0L T96T-12200-A CAUTION: Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A (3.0L, 4.0L) or T96T-12200-A (5.0L) must be obtained prior to installation of the replacement...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[Summers22]

Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) / 3.0L, 4.0L & 5.0L - The Ranger Station

Special Service Tools Required: Description Tool Number Syncro Positioning Tool – 3.0L, 4.0L T95T-12200-A Syncro Positioning Tool – 5.0L T96T-12200-A CAUTION: Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A (3.0L, 4.0L) or T96T-12200-A (5.0L) must be obtained prior to installation of the replacement...

www.therangerstation.com

I appreciate that!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I appreciate that!

The tech archives on here have a ton of information, although some need some updating, we are working on it…