2wd motor mounts...

[Black P-38]

Hey guys, pulled the 2.0 and 5 speed out of my 86 reg cab short box 2wd
Ranger this weekend... and so it begins...

It was great to finally have a full view of an empty bay and do some preliminary measuring etc. I unbolted the stock mounts, scraped the protective coating of grease and road grime off the crossmember and went to work.

I blocked up my Fox pan to cradle the crossmember, put the T-5 on the floor jack and positioned it where I think things will go. My 5.0 block is at the machine shop, dangit, and my bellhousing wont be here 'til tomorrow. I had to measure and estimate the location but so far, so good.

It looks like the shifter stub on the T-5 will come up just at the rear of the trans tunnel cover plate so a hole saw should make it work. I'll be swapping the bench for some buckets and I think the shifter will be just about right with a little left offset.

I really want the motor as far back and low as possible without major firewall mods and I'm wondering if anyone has used the 69-83 F-100 mounts.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=ANH&MfrPartNumber=2329&PartType=27&PTSet=A

They look promising and they're right in my price range. Would love to see some pics and hear any experience/suggestions, headers used etc.

I'm on my way now...

Thanks Guys!!!
Mike

 

[red85]

you can get dedicated swap mounts for very cheap from Trans Dapt. Have you looked at 88-93 Mustang mounts?

 

[Totalled]

Get these: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=LRS-6038PR 1&comp=LRS

 

[dude772]

the 69 f-150 mounts are EXACTLY the same as the advance adapter, and james duff conversion mounts. I called james duff and verified this myself, to find them in the first place i used a picture of the advance adapters mount and fliped threw a whole catalog of motor mounts, i spent alot of time searching.

I used these mounts on my conversion, very happy with them. I also welded a 1/4 plate to the cross member to bolt the mounts to, because the studs that would go into the crossmember would be in a place where there is no crossmember.

You could use the advance adapter mount adapters if you cant, or dont have the ability to weld and fabricate a plate. They are a bolt on adapter, but they might make the engine sit a little higher.

My engine sat so low, that i actually had to get spacers between the 69 f-150 mount and the block to allow the header to clear the rag joint on the steering shaft, which will also need to be replaced with a u-joint that i will be ordering from summitdirect.com. Thats another weld on piece.

 

[Black P-38]

dude772,
That's so cool!!! I picked up a pair yesterday from Schuck's Auto Parts,(same as Kragen or Checker Auto). They price match Parts America Online so I paid just $6.99 each. Glad to hear they worked out well for you. Low is good right? (I have the Ford Racing dual sump pan, looks like it was made to fit over the 2wd crossmember). I figured I'll need to fab steel plates to offset the mounts from the crossmember. Which headers are you running?

I need to pick up my 5.0 bare block and bolt up my oil pan, bellhousing, T-5 and heads so I can do the mock up for mount location. How much distance should I allow for clearance from the block, (where the oil filter gasket seat surface is), for the remote adapter?

I should probably wait til I have it mounted but haven't aquired one yet. Replacing the rag joint with a u-joint sounds like a good idea. Should be stronger, less affected by header heat and gain some clearance. Do you have a part # for it?

THANKS,
Mike

 

[dude772]

dude772,
That's so cool!!! I picked up a pair yesterday from Schuck's Auto Parts,(same as Kragen or Checker Auto). They price match Parts America Online so I paid just $6.99 each. Glad to hear they worked out well for you. Low is good right? (I have the Ford Racing dual sump pan, looks like it was made to fit over the 2wd crossmember). I figured I'll need to fab steel plates to offset the mounts from the crossmember. Which headers are you running?

I need to pick up my 5.0 bare block and bolt up my oil pan, bellhousing, T-5 and heads so I can do the mock up for mount location. How much distance should I allow for clearance from the block, (where the oil filter gasket seat surface is), for the remote adapter?

I should probably wait til I have it mounted but haven't aquired one yet. Replacing the rag joint with a u-joint sounds like a good idea. Should be stronger, less affected by header heat and gain some clearance. Do you have a part # for it?

THANKS,
Mike

the steering shaft u-joint is in the summit catalog on page number229(rack and pinion, u-joints, and steering wheels) part number "FLA-FR1702 joint for 1976 ford power steering 3/4" x 3/4" - 36 spline"

The headers ive got are apparently from a Mustang II 302, i cant verify or deny that. All i know is that the drivers side clears pretty good and the passengers side wont work at all. so the passengers side is completely custom made with bits of exhaust that were laying around.

The drivers side header almost rubs on the rag joint its so close, very little clearance.

this is the mount i used

and if you can see the gray area on the firewall behind the drivers side of the engine, thats where you need to beat the snot out of it to gain as much clearance as possible.

I couldn't tell you the clearance measurement ive got, all i did was drop a spare block in there with the mounts losely bolted to the quarter plate and lined it up to what looked good. Then i trial fitted the headers adjusted the motor a little, tossed an AOD under the truck, it lined up nicely.

Then i tack welded the plate to the crossmember, took the engine out, ground off the tacks, notched the crossmember where the mount studs came threw so i could bolt the mounts on easy.Then I placed the plates back on(with the drivers side adjusted minorly for height clearance for the rag joint) and welded em up solid. Im happy with the placement, but that dent in the firewall makes it even better!

Basically for the dent i made the corner an inney instead of an outty.

Mounting is the easy part... im having some troubles with the wiring. Its been over a year since i tore the truck apart and making it difficult to remeber what goes where and why.... i suggest lots of pictures while your tearing apart haha.

EDIT: I also have a 2" body lift installed

 

[Black P-38]

I appreciate all the info, those mounts look exactly like mine. I don't mind "adjusting" the firewall a bit, got a BFH for that!!! Whatever it takes to get the motor low and as far back as I can for weight distribution.

Not planning a body lift so that may limit what I can do. I know what you mean about wiring, not my favorite thing to do. Even with pics and wire diagrams it can still be a major PITA, I'd rather turn a wrench or fab parts for sure.

Hope to make some major progress on mounts and locating the drivetrain this weekend but the whole project will take time. I'll be making one good truck out of 2 that are pretty rough and a Mustang GT donor motor. Kind of a FrankenRanger project, I'll get there eventually.

My long term goal is to take my extra rolling chassis to a friend who has a custom shop to have it set up with a Mustang II rack and pinion IFS and a coil over 8.8 setup for a second Ranger project.

I'll be looking for a nice Gen II Ranger as a bed/cab/front clip donor and either another 5.0 or MAYBE use the 351 and TKO 600from my Lightning when I tear it down for a rebuild.

I can always find another F4TE block for the Lightning and replace the TKO with a T-56. Only time and money that keeps me from my dreams.

Good luck with your wiring,
Mike