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2WD in snow?


Alright, i will probably just look into getting sandbags. Do the rock quarries sell sand? If not, where can i get it from? It would probably be cheaper to fill my own stuff..right?

Any hardware store. Local, Lowes, Home depot, etc.

At $5 for a 60lb bag of sand, 300lbs would equal roughly $25.

You might even be able to find it cheaper.
 
I rock one of these in the winter, with a decent set of winter tires and this in the bed I was unstoppable in the winter.

compact_shurtrax.jpg


It's called a Shurtrax, you can get them anywhere online and unlike other stuff in you bed it won't fly around and become a projectile in the event of a collision or bump.

http://www.4x4review.com/Features/NewProducts/ShurTraxTractionAidingDevice/tabid/362/Default.aspx
 
I am in Ohio, us.

Then see if there's a Goodyear or Firestone factory outlet!!!

As for a set of tires, I run a set of Firestone Destination A/T's (215/75R15) on my truck. They're really good in the snow.
 
Ahh... winter must be on it's way if someone is asking about driving in snow... (and the people at Tractor Supply thought I was nuts to be buying snow plow parts yesterday).

As far as what works and what doesn't, I'll try to give you a good run-down (maybe I should make a tech article out of it sometime). I spent several years running a 2000 Ranger 2wd around both around the Pittsburgh, PA area, a year around Akron, OH, and a couple years up in the Erie, PA area.

Tires

Tire selection becomes quite critical for a 2wd if you want it to perform in the winter. I've found the summer tread patterns and some AT tread patterns to be next to worthless (including the BFG AT). No matter what the manufacturer claims, it's just too easy to break a rear tire free with a 2wd pickup and then you're fawked.

Dedicated snow tires if they are of a more aggressive pattern seem to do quite well (my buddy runs them on his 97 Ranger supercab 2wd with a 4.0L and 3.08 gears). So far I can't remember him calling me for a tug in the winter since he's been runnin 'em. He's running 225/70/15 tires on his and leaves them on year round.

My personal preference is an aggressive patterned All Terrain. Something with bigger gaps between tread blocks and bigger tread blocks with factory siping in the tread (those little slits). The first set that I ran (and with great success) was a set of Sport King AT tires. The pattern looked sort of like a mud terrain, just shorter tread blocks and siping. They took me nearly anywhere I pointed the truck and I ran 235/75/15 tires. I did have some problems with starting out on hills but when I swapped to a limited slip rear axle (packed clutch disks ftw), I did much better. I had a 5-speed manual trans and 3.73 gears.

Mud tires work great in deep snow. I'm talking 6" or more of the white crap. But put them on snow that's been packed down or on an inch of snow and they are next to worthless. I tried running them for two winters before it started to sink in. (ran mud tires on the rear and aggressive AT tires on the front). My front would go anywhere that I pointed it but the back had trouble getting a bite. Unless I wrapped chains around the mud tires... then I had a tank - literally! (more than once I drove through snow as high as my hood with chains wrapped over mud tires and an open rear diff). But chains limit your speed, are noisy and rough to ride on, and most states anymore don't want you to run them on the road unless conditions are REALLY bad. (I still carry a set of chains with me every winter).

I'll usually run my tires at 30 psi for local driving in the winter and 35-40 psi for highway (depending on the type of tire, what pressure it's rated for and what kind of a load I'm carrying).


Weight

For summer treads, the more weight the better usually for trying to get traction. I ran around 400-450 lbs when I had the crappy stock summer treads (firestone wilderness ht - ht supposedly stood for High Traction, yea, right). They did ok with that weight as long as we didn't get more than an inch or two at a time.

For aggressive AT tires, I usually stick between 100-250 lbs. Thats what seems to work well for me. More weight will give you better traction when there is a lil snow, but seems to hurt you if the snow gets deeper.

For Mud tires, you'll want as little weight as possible in the bed for deep snow and it doesn't seem to really matter how much you put in, it just doesn't do well on the little stuff.

I would highly recommend NOT putting anything solid in the bed without securing the crap out of it for winter weight. I've seen guys run with a lump of steel or some concrete blocks or something in the bed before. If you slide off an icy road into a tree though, those things could come through the back of the cab to join you up front! Not something I want to have happen!

If you run with an open bed and don't really use the bed at all in the winter, by all means, pack it full of snow! That's probably the safest thing you can run for weight because it will conform to the inside of your bed and not move at all.

I couldn't do that because I used my truck on a regular basis. I tried running tube sand, tried filling 5-gal buckets with sand and tying them to the front of the bed, tried using bags of washed decorative gravel, etc. But all of those left me with a problem since I needed my bed for hauling things. They just took up too much bed space. Then I found a solution. Bags of lead shot (the sort of stuff used to reload shotgun shells). One little bag weighs 25 lbs. I'd lay a couple in front of and behind the wheel arches to achieve the weight I was looking for. They don't move because they are so heavy and even in a wreck (don't ask!), they stayed nearly exactly where I put them (the lead will shift against itself in the bag and absorb some of the energy it's imparted with rather than shoot across the bed floor). Of course, that only works well if you have a tonneau cover or cap on the bed all the time (the bags will rot out if you don't).


Driving style

KEEP YOUR FOOT OUT OF IT!!!!

lol, if you get stuck, spinning your tires faster will not help. Use your gears and your head to try to help you get going. If I was on a fairly level spot and first gear wasn't helping, I'd try second gear and slip the clutch a lil. Sometimes that was just enough extra resistance to things to turn the wheels slow enough to get myself out. That sort of thing also helps with auto transmissions - just select a gear on the shifter. Another trick that can be used (especially with limited slip rear axles) is to put the e-brake on. Not hard to the point that you can't move, but just enough to offer some resistance (on old ones it would just just be a click or two down). Sometimes that will force the spinning wheel to stop spinning and transfer the power to the other side - even with an open rear axle.




Any questions?:icon_twisted:
 
Great post! lots of good information there. I never though about using the e brake like that.

When I put on my Firestone Destination A/T I noticed a pretty big difference in how well it handled in snow. I usually carry about 300 pounds of tube sand in the bed. Its easy to come by, cheap, and if you do get stuck you can open up one of the bags and spread out some sand for traction.
 
I have snow tires on all 4 of my wheels, it does make a difference in stopping, turning, and general handling. As weight I fill the plastic base of a basket ball pole with water, and put it in the back to freeze and it is really heavy and keeps the rear axle down. That works fairly well, remember to drive like a granny and coast long before braking.
 
Great post! lots of good information there. I never though about using the e brake like that.

When I put on my Firestone Destination A/T I noticed a pretty big difference in how well it handled in snow. I usually carry about 300 pounds of tube sand in the bed. Its easy to come by, cheap, and if you do get stuck you can open up one of the bags and spread out some sand for traction.
There's a few more things I could mention, but I gotta get some stuff done around here today... like work on fixing my snowplow.... :icon_twisted:
 
I drive a 2wd up in Toledo, oh for school. Just add some weight in the back and you wont have much problems. Ive drove home in like 6inches of snow with no issues, just got to watch out for ice.
 
I've driven many 2wd trucks, and a mustang:shok: in the snow. Just get a little weight in the bed, and you should be good. I don't even use snow tires, just all season tires, cus I can't afford them. I drive extremely slow in the snow. As far as getting stuck, better get yourself a snow shovel, lol.
 
buy meaty offroad tires, add some weight and take your right foot off the floor. you wont have a problem. :icon_thumby:

I agree except that no offroad tire is a great choice for snow. The closest would be the General Grabber AT2 which is severe snow rated. Still not as good as Blizzaks but pretty close.
 
Thanks for the tips everyone! New tires are a possibility, but dedicated snow tires are not (no where to put them in off season). I knew about the sand/heavy objects in the back..so ill for sure be doing that. I should be alright.

I drive a 2wd up in Toledo, oh for school. Just add some weight in the back and you wont have much problems. Ive drove home in like 6inches of snow with no issues, just got to watch out for ice.

I live 30 mins north of dayton and the snow here is terrible..I can't imagine up there!
 
Don't bother with mud tires. My 84 is useless in the snow, and that's locked with very fresh 33" procomp MT's.

If you have the option to get new tires, get actual snow tires. The ones with all the little tiny slits in them. Get the skinniest you can that still has the same overall diameter (or at least very close). This will help cut through the snow down to the pavement.
Skinny tires are good in compacted, crunchy icelike snow. Wider flotation style tires are better for fresh powder. There was a thread on this too. BFG all terrains are the nutz in the snow. I had them on my expedition and i have never heard a bad word from anyone on here about snow use. Mud, fawk it. they suck.


If you really, truely, don't want to get stuck. Get a selectable locker for the rear. $$$, but it will be the biggest contributor to getting you out of places.
Anything can get stuck, 2wd 4wd 6x6, anything. You just need to be prepared to get stuck and like he says here, get a locker. A locked 2wd goes alot farther in any terrain than open diff.


Even still, none of this means you won't ever get stuck. You'll just improve your chances of getting out.
x2


MOST of the time I've never had a problem here in Michigan. BUT, I have had some very embarrassing moments at some stop lights with ever so slight inclines.
LOL We had a light dusting and I stopped at my mail box and couldnt move. I had to back down the hill and hit the circle road form the other entrance and come down hill LOL. Weight will be your best friend, sand, water, rocks, I personally like rocks because they can also be stuffed under the truck for traction. But keep a tow rope on you, and maybe invest in a small winch (xrc8 is a pretty good one for the money)

OH YEAH DID WE MENTION, YOUR GONNA GET STUCK NO MATTER WHAT?? LOL Different terrains require different pedal pressures. SLow easy pedal, low slip will help you in icy offroad situation. But some situations such as mud require you to hammer down and hold the pedal and stopping is a no-no. Learning the ins and outs of yoru truck and how to drive it, what it responds best too will get you farther offroad in any situation than anything else.
 
OH YEAH DID WE MENTION, YOUR GONNA GET STUCK NO MATTER WHAT?? LOL Different terrains require different pedal pressures. SLow easy pedal, low slip will help you in icy offroad situation. But some situations such as mud require you to hammer down and hold the pedal and stopping is a no-no. Learning the ins and outs of yoru truck and how to drive it, what it responds best too will get you farther offroad in any situation than anything else.

+1 to that!!!

Another thing is to watch your tach (if you have one) because you'll see the revs jump as an indication of wheel slip before you get into serious trouble. That little trick has saved my but a few times.

Another thing which I agree on is using narrower tires in the snow. I run the stock 215/75-R15 on my truck. They cut through the white slush and icy junk (common in New England) like a hot knife through butter.
As a side note, I have a friend with an '04 Subaru Outback. For his winter tires, he goes down a size (225 in the winter versus 235 the rest of the year). Look at a winter WRC tire. They're skinny as heck!
 
LOL We had a light dusting and I stopped at my mail box and couldnt move. I had to back down the hill and hit the circle road form the other entrance and come down hill LOL. Weight will be your best friend, sand, water, rocks, I personally like rocks because they can also be stuffed under the truck for traction. But keep a tow rope on you, and maybe invest in a small winch (xrc8 is a pretty good one for the money)

OH YEAH DID WE MENTION, YOUR GONNA GET STUCK NO MATTER WHAT?? LOL Different terrains require different pedal pressures. SLow easy pedal, low slip will help you in icy offroad situation. But some situations such as mud require you to hammer down and hold the pedal and stopping is a no-no. Learning the ins and outs of yoru truck and how to drive it, what it responds best too will get you farther offroad in any situation than anything else.
I've never been happy with BFG All Terrains. My dad didn't have any luck running them on his F-150 either. IMHO, they just don't work well in snow, something more aggressive but still in the all terrain class works considerably better.

My F-150 had some "all terrain" tires on it when I got it. They still had a bit of tread but the one front tire was trashed from a bad alignment. I found that I had to use 4x4 anytime there was snow on the road - even a dusting! It went great in 4x4, but I hate running around in 4x4 ALL the time. So I went out tire shopping and came home with some 31x10.50x15 Nexen AT tires. Nice coarse tread pattern, price was right (around $115 a tire mounted), and I was finally able to run around in 2wd when there was snow on the road and only had to use 4x4 when it got real bad.

As far as a locker goes....

Yes, it will provide you considerably more traction... but if you're not careful it can also put you in the ditch on the side of the road before you can blink. I've found that driving with a locker takes some getting used to in bad weather. Once you're used to how it handles (which is considerably different than an open differential or even a limited slip), it's a great advantage. Just don't expect to throw one in and boogie down a snowy road at 50mph if you've never driven with a locker.
 
I can attest to using snow tires and sand bags for weight. A few years back a guy gave me two stock Ranger wheels, which gave me the bright idea to have them mounted with narrow snow tires. I ran those as my rear tires in winter, kept the wider stock wheels up front and with maybe 200 lb. of sand in the back, centered over the rear-end, I never once got stuck where I couldn't free myself, even during some nasty WI winters.....
 

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